Fairline Fury MK1 restoration/refurb

Good to hear. Don’t forget to let us know here about any bits you need. I’ve still got quite a lot of boaty spares in my garage (y)
Areat kida, i hope i wont need much on this project. famous last words hey h aha. everything is here i need but for service parts for the engines. I hope to have them out soon now and get them running them tarted up a bit. . Along with the drives.
And thanks kida, no doubt ill end up with a list of bits ill need.


And well, i ma still struggling to do things but bit by bit i am doing stuff. Plan is to get he engines out first but i need to widen the gantry first to get it over the stern to lift them out. I was going t o mod the gantry today but not doing good so i started on these props for when its lifted.

Easy enough. I used some old large axle stands and got mini Acro`s along with some fittings we make at work that are scrappers. so bin diving it was in t he works scrap bin.[

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Trim here and there

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Thes eare the fittings i got out the scrap bin, slight modification of the base plate and weld it back up. Just slit it with a laser cutting blade

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Then these go in the end of a tube welded onto the axle stand to create apivot.

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.

Then ply pad yet to be covered.

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And there we go.

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Ill do the others as and when but i really want to get the engines out next.

so going slow but atleast its keeping me going :)
 
So all day i have been getting more motivated to crack in here.

Now i am not one for bodging but with how things are i was tempted to use a wood hardener to fix some rotten areas. So after work today i though i should go in with a screw driver and chisel in hand and see what we are looking at close up.

And to my joy its not as bad first thought. The main bulkhead is rotten though and will be coming out and replacing with either new ply or GRP one.

The rest is all but for a few square inch which is rotten at bottom of a cupboard.

this is the bulkhead, rotten through

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also at the bottom

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Now the rest you will see is just the top veneer that has come away where the condensation has got to it.

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Once the veneer was removed

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Feel real motivated now :)

Me and T will see what we can get done now asap. if i could get the starter motors off i would try the engines in situ but to painfull so they are defo coming out to be set up and sorted.

bring on 2022 :)
 
As soon as i can i will be widening the gantry i built last year a sit is 2 inch to narrow to get over th gtranson to get the engines out. Also i need some new boat props so i had a brain wave while at work. We manufacture stair lifts and a few of the scrap parts come in handy along with a few other bits.

My old axle stand will not come again for cars so now boat props, along with some mini acro props and a the bits from work modified a little.


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All top pivots nice

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Done four but mite get two more made yet.

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Well tired n chilling tonight so more update.

I said previous that i had good findings and thius is it.

When i got the boat i knew it needed a bit of work and as always i look at it being the worst. I had planned on a complete interior refit, new bulkheads and all wood etc.

Now tuther week i though i would dig into the bulkheas more and see how bad they are. Now to my joy, not a surprise now as the boat was great when laid up some 6 years or so ago, the bulkheads are not that bad.


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All those are just top lam/veneer has delaminated.

So plan is to remove all bad wood and replace with epoxy or other good filler then redo the surface.


As said the main bulkhead is a gonner.

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This weekend i hope to get an engine running. but need a set of HT leads and hope the points are good, got new plugs though.
 
I got the drives off this weekend. i didnt get many pics sorry as struggling.

I wanted to run the engines with drives fitted but as one engine is locked and the other i just couldnt be bothered i just removed the drives in time to remove the engines asap.

Drives feel good, select gear easy and no play to be found in them.

Although these are in not bad nick but for the flaps they will be replaced with new as all other stuff.

Up to now all bolts come out easy...ish.

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I have a shopping list here for all new engine bits n bobs for these Fury engines but first i will be getting the Merc OM636 running and selling that on in running order now. Sick of folk asking about it and offering scrap money. So if i sell that then that will fund the rebuild of the AQ130`s.
 
re the aq 130 you need to look at the cylinder heads exhaust ports particularly the last port nearest the transom, they corrode very badly and in some cases (mine................. had been bodged with car body filler and after 10 mins of running the filler burnt away) they need a new/another head as the corrosion can be severe. I would not spend any money on the engines until you have completed this inspection. As a new head is not exactly rocking horse droppings but they do require a fairly extensive search of scrap yard shelves as over the years there have been many iterations and states of tune.
 
re the aq 130 you need to look at the cylinder heads exhaust ports particularly the last port nearest the transom, they corrode very badly and in some cases (mine................. had been bodged with car body filler and after 10 mins of running the filler burnt away) they need a new/another head as the corrosion can be severe. I would not spend any money on the engines until you have completed this inspection. As a new head is not exactly rocking horse droppings but they do require a fairly extensive search of scrap yard shelves as over the years there have been many iterations and states of tune.


I agree, i am not spending any money on th engines untill i get them out and and check them over.

Why on earth would somebody bodge an engine with body filler, that is a bodge of bodge ups that one.
 
re the aq 130 you need to look at the cylinder heads exhaust ports particularly the last port nearest the transom, they corrode very badly and in some cases (mine................. had been bodged with car body filler and after 10 mins of running the filler burnt away) they need a new/another head as the corrosion can be severe. I would not spend any money on the engines until you have completed this inspection. As a new head is not exactly rocking horse droppings but they do require a fairly extensive search of scrap yard shelves as over the years there have been many iterations and states of tune.

They can be welded and fixed. The head of the 130 is the same as the B20 Volvo car engine. They are difficult to find, but not impossible.
 
you could only weld mine if you had something to weld to... mine was so far gone there was no meat left,there was evidence of a previous mod using a steel band shrunk into the exhaust port but this too had rotted with sea water creating something resembling a battery to eat further into the head!!
 
you could only weld mine if you had something to weld to... mine was so far gone there was no meat left,there was evidence of a previous mod using a steel band shrunk into the exhaust port but this too had rotted with sea water creating something resembling a battery to eat further into the head!!

The metal ring seems to be a standard fit. Mine had that and it had rotted to below it. Was still welded up and made usable again.
 
I think the metal ring was introduced by Volvo for marine heads when they realised there was a corrosion issue. as car heads don't seem to have this mod.
 
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