Exhaust Routing - will it cause a problem?

RobW

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Hi all
Can anyone advise - I am in the process of replacing the exhaust hose on our sailing cruiser, after discovering a couple of badly delaminated points on the old hose.

We have a very standard system, mixing elbow, short bit of hose, watertrap, longer length of hose forming a high loop / gooseneck in the aft locker, dropping to a through transom outlet above the waterline.

I thought I was being clever and recently acquired a second hand / hardly used vetus type gooseneck thinking I could save some hose and space in the back locker, however there is not quite the height I though, and if I install this, there will be a rise in the pipe from the gooseneck outlet in the short length of hose to the transom outlet, so it would always retain a small amout of water at this point, were previously it would have been self draining.

Does this matter, or should I retain the original set-up with the loop of hose?

I just have an uneasy feeling that this is less than ideal!
Any advise or experience of similar configurations much appreciated.

Rob.
 
There is no reason why you should not continue to use a hose loop to form the swan neck.

The Vetus units ( "goose neck" they call them) are useful if lack of space makes it difficult to use the hose loop

I am puzzled that you say your Vetus unit will retain some water although I cannot see that a little retained water will matter. Are you sure you are not fitting it upside down? I think you may be!

See the Vetus catalogue. Page 64 et seq.
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/06fa8bec#/06fa8bec/64


( In my book a goose neck is the joint between the boom to the mast! )
 
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I am puzzled that you say your Vetus unit will retain some water although I cannot see that a little retained water will matter. Are you sure you are not fitting it upside down? I think you may be!

( In my book a goose neck is the joint between the boom to the mast! )

Hi and thanks for your response, but I do have the vetus goose neck the correct way round, they print nice big arrows on the side of the moulding to help with this.

The potential problem, if it is a problem, is the height of my locker (or lack of it) which means that the outlet of the vetus goose neck will be below the existing transom outlet fitting, thus requiring a short "up-hill" section of hose between the vetus goose neck outlent and the transom outlet fitting. Is this a problem?

(With my old set-up, any water remaining in the pipe, after the highest point of the swan neck, would have been self-draining).

I have no idea why Vetus call a swan neck a goose neck!

BW

Robert
 
Then don't use the Vetus fitting. The loop has to be above the waterline. If it worked OK before then no need for the gooseneck.
 
I believe that 10% of engine breakdowns derive from sea water getting into the engine from the exhaust, especially yachts, whose mixing elbow is near or below the waterline. Apart from the swan neck/ high loop/ water lock/ exhaust riser solutions, a pal had adopted a habit, just before stopping the engine, of shutting off the water intake, then giving it full revs for a few seconds to blow any residual water out of the exhaust. I tried this in my boat recently,then checked the Vetus water lock (which usually has a pint or two in the bottom), and it was empty: so it does seem to work.....if you can remember to do it.
 
Volvo Design Issues, What were They Thinking?

I started doing the same thing, shutting the inlet and running it dry, only takes a few seconds. Not sure how this occurred, this Volvo D2-40 has 352 hours since complete new install. Their very poorly designed water injection plastic pipe into the mixing riser (sealed with an O-Ring) an inch above the exhaust port is another discussion. Hot Salt Water really likes cast Iron. It has eaten under the O-Ring and cross contaminated the fresh water coolant. OH Boy, and it gets Better ! For now, DO NOT BUY A Volvo D2 SERIES (REALLY BAD FLAWS) AND NO SUPPORT!


Exhaust Manifold Heat Exchanger Unit.jpg
I believe that 10% of engine breakdowns derive from sea water getting into the engine from the exhaust, especially yachts, whose mixing elbow is near or below the waterline. Apart from the swan neck/ high loop/ water lock/ exhaust riser solutions, a pal had adopted a habit, just before stopping the engine, of shutting off the water intake, then giving it full revs for a few seconds to blow any residual water out of the exhaust. I tried this in my boat recently,then checked the Vetus water lock (which usually has a pint or two in the bottom), and it was empty: so it does seem to work.....if you can remember to do it.
 
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