Excessive fouling on 10 month old Sunseeker

I think you'll find Ocean Village pretty fierce in regards to anode destruction due to the fact that it is enclosed in steel shuttering all round.
When I was moored there my anodes were fizzing from day one and didn't last as long as you would expect at a 'normal' marina.
 
Portofino said:
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This works .
It's your hull antifoul ,over VP Gray paint
Welcome to the forum
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I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned but you should never use normal hull anti-foul on your outdrives or any under water metals. This is because your normal anti-foul contains copper, which is a a hard metal, and will result in electrolysis (galvanic corrosion) on the outdrive, assuming the latter is made from aluminium. In short, if you do this an electrical current will form between the two metals and electrolysis will start to occur when the weaker metal i.e. aluminum begins to lose molecules in the water. In other words, copper anti-foul will eat holes into the outdrive and eventually destroy the outdrive completely.

To help prevent this, we normally left a 1" strip of non-anti-fouled hull around the outdrive to avoid any copper anti-fouling from touching the aluminium drive i.e. breaking the electrical bonding between the copper and the aluminium. Also, more importantly, use a primer and anti-foul made for outdrives and which does not contain copper e.g. Interspeed Trilux Prop-o-Drev.
 
EugeneR said:
I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned but you should never use normal hull anti-foul on your outdrives or any under water metals. This is because your normal anti-foul contains copper, which is a a hard metal, and will result in electrolysis (galvanic corrosion) on the outdrive, assuming the latter is made from aluminium. In short, if you do this an electrical current will form between the two metals and electrolysis will start to occur when the weaker metal i.e. aluminum begins to lose molecules in the water. In other words, copper anti-foul will eat holes into the outdrive and eventually destroy the outdrive completely.

To help prevent this, we normally left a 1" strip of non-anti-fouled hull around the outdrive to avoid any copper anti-fouling from touching the aluminium drive i.e. breaking the electrical bonding between the copper and the aluminium. Also, more importantly, use a primer and anti-foul made for outdrives and which does not contain copper e.g. Interspeed Trilux Prop-o-Drev.
Click to expand...

Volvo Penta's website makes reference to this. I'll take advice from Sunseeker and hopefully find a resolution!
 
EugeneR said:
I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned but you should never use normal hull anti-foul on your outdrives or any under water metals. This is because your normal anti-foul contains copper, which is a a hard metal, and will result in electrolysis (galvanic corrosion) on the outdrive, assuming the latter is made from aluminium. In short, if you do this an electrical current will form between the two metals and electrolysis will start to occur when the weaker metal i.e. aluminum begins to lose molecules in the water. In other words, copper anti-foul will eat holes into the outdrive and eventually destroy the outdrive completely.

To help prevent this, we normally left a 1" strip of non-anti-fouled hull around the outdrive to avoid any copper anti-fouling from touching the aluminium drive i.e. breaking the electrical bonding between the copper and the aluminium. Also, more importantly, use a primer and anti-foul made for outdrives and which does not contain copper e.g. Interspeed Trilux Prop-o-Drev.
Click to expand...

Yep - I have DP-H outdrives, and I use Trilux on them.
 
Trilux was used too as an undercoat on top of the VP grey .
Antifoul went on top -I think it was a none copper ? vaguely remember asking in the yard shop, but may have lost the jist in transaction ( France ) .it did work -buyers surveyor did not pick up this .Placed on in May -boat sold end of Sept .
With outdrives I found speed / rpm v sensitive to prop fouling .
Trilux on its own was rubbish ,previous seasons .
 
Portofino said:
Trilux was used too as an undercoat on top of the VP grey .
Antifoul went on top -I think it was a none copper ? vaguely remember asking in the yard shop, but may have lost the jist in transaction ( France ) .it did work -buyers surveyor did not pick up this .Placed on in May -boat sold end of Sept .
With outdrives I found speed / rpm v sensitive to prop fouling .
Trilux on its own was rubbish ,previous seasons .
Click to expand...
As always with A/F, success seems to depend on location and season. I always use Trilux (the paint, the spray is useless). When I came out in November, the legs looked almost like new. Mind you, we did spend some time in Brittany up some rivers, so maybe the fresh water killed off anything half way through the season.
The main success seems to be in keeping the boat boat on the move, though !
 
Thank you for all your replies/advice

I've spoken to Sunseeker about it, and they are getting back to me, as I am of the belief that the stern drives should have had some protection before the boat was launched in February.

I'll update as and when
 
EugeneR said:
I'm surprised this hasn't been mentioned but you should never use normal hull anti-foul on your outdrives or any under water metals. This is because your normal anti-foul contains copper, which is a a hard metal, and will result in electrolysis (galvanic corrosion) on the outdrive, assuming the latter is made from aluminium. In short, if you do this an electrical current will form between the two metals and electrolysis will start to occur when the weaker metal i.e. aluminum begins to lose molecules in the water. In other words, copper anti-foul will eat holes into the outdrive and eventually destroy the outdrive completely.

To help prevent this, we normally left a 1" strip of non-anti-fouled hull around the outdrive to avoid any copper anti-fouling from touching the aluminium drive i.e. breaking the electrical bonding between the copper and the aluminium. Also, more importantly, use a primer and anti-foul made for outdrives and which does not contain copper e.g. Interspeed Trilux Prop-o-Drev.
Click to expand...

New to the thread and I was just thinking the shame. If that isn't Trilux on the stern drives and a gap hasn't been left around the transom sheild (assuming the whole hull isn't antifouled with Trilux) then some serious questions need to be asked.

Beatiful boat too :)
 
Most antifoulings have very little copper in them these days, however with an expensive item like an outdrive one just cannot take the chance of interaction. In all the years of painting boats I have found that Trilux is the most effective on outdrives. I do however disagree with the idea of leaving a 1 inch strip of unantifouled hull around the outdrive. In my experience the best way is to coat the outdrives with Trilux first and extend this 2 inches over on to the hull. The usual hull antifoul is then coated up to within 1/2" of the outdrive shield. This way you have a fully coated and protected hull.
 
The new International antifoulings actually have more copper an have removed some of the more pernicious biocides, you can actually feel the weight difference.

Tri lux performs well as does the TK aerosol antifoulings
 
itchenseadog said:
Most antifoulings have very little copper in them these days, however with an expensive item like an outdrive one just cannot take the chance of interaction. In all the years of painting boats I have found that Trilux is the most effective on outdrives.
Click to expand...

Are you sure? Most are based on copper(I) oxide surely? Typically containing 25-50% Cu2O

Even Trilux33 and Hempel's Aluxtra contain copper(I) thiocyanate
 
Sould have said "Most antifoulings have very little copper in them as compared to say 20/30 years ago".
Typing lags behind the brain !!
I go back to the days over 50 years ago when Blakes Algicide was common - I hate to think what lovely poisons that contained. No masks, gloves, overalls or ppe in those days, we apprentices were just given a 3" brush and 5ltrs of Algicide.
 
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