Evinrude 4hp twin spares and info help?

penfold

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I've been given one of these to look after by a friend who uses it with a hard dinghy for fishing; there's no manual with it, so can anyone help with service info(spark gap, how to set the mixture knob on the front etc), and possibly recommend a source of spares. I think it will need a water pump impellor and there's a broken plastic link in the daft primer/choke/fuel tap mechanism. It's a BE4RCCS, serial B1648940, I think from the vertical split casing and colour scheme maybe late 1980s. Who knew Belgium was a centre of outboard manufacture?
 
It's a BE4RCCS
1988
Parts catalogue
Wills Marine (Google them) next day postal service. Huge stocks.

Not sure about your description of the casing. However if it like this one below Do Not undo the cross head screw in the middle of the top cover. It holds the recoil starter spring in place. The cover screws (4) are underneath inside the lower shroud.

VicS will tell you all the specs.

testrun2.jpg
 
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B = made in Belgium
E = Evinrude
4 = 4hp
R = Ropestart
CC = 88 ( so a 1988 model)
S is just a production suffix


If you ignore the "B" you will find parts breakdowns at http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=dhsa1sosul3mvc411kphtcgaq4&catalog_id=0&siteid=1

And also at http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/EVINRUDE/1988/E4RCCS 1988/parts.html

Not particularly good diagrams for some reason with this model!

Good places for spares via mail order are www.outboards-direct.co.uk ( Oakley Marine) in Brighton and www.willsmarine.co.uk in Kingsbridge, Devon

Currently recommended plus are Champion QL77JC4 gapped at 0.030" ( 0.7 -0.8mm)

Q= inductively suppressed and if suppressed plugs are used it is vital that they are inductively suppressed and not resistor plugs

The unsupressed L77JC4 would be Ok

Champions are recommended but if you are forced to use NGK use BZ7HS ( or BZ7HS-10) Z= inductively suppressed ( -10 means pre-gapped at 1mm)

The unsuppressed versions B7HS ( or B7HS -10) would be OK

Do not let a dealer sell you BR7HS. R= resistor and you will have trouble They are not the equivalent of the Champion Q plugs no matter what rubbish you may be told.

[/rant about plugs for OMC engines]

The instructions for adjusting the idle mixture screw have been published on various US forums by former OMC technician Joe Reeves and are as follows

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.​

Lakesailor has done some major work on a similar but slightly older 4Hp OMC and with luck he will be along shortly to explain and point you in the direction of his photos.
 
Unfortunately no manuals available on line .. Mercenary lot OMC sold all the publication rights to Ken Cook Co .. while others put their owners manuals on line.
If you want a manual look out on ebay or buy ( 'spensive) from Ken cook at www.outboardbooks.com
 
Not sure about your description of the casing. However if it like this one below Do Not undo the cross head screw in the middle of the top cover. It holds the recoil starter spring in place.

I've never done that, but I have had the dubious privilege of putting one back together afterwards; I imagine wrestling a grumpy boa constrictor into a box slightly larger than itself would be slightly easier and less likely to result in a visit to A&E.
 
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