Evinrude 2HP

[m1taylor]

I have an oldish one of these - but it is a difficult starter from cold - takes at least 6-7 pulls, if not more, and then is fussy on the choke until it gets a little warm. Once warm, runs just fine, and re-starts always on first pull, and ticks over no problem.

So, any ideas on why it is difficult to get going at the start? The carb appears clean - otherwise I doubt it would tick over so well when warm.

 

[VicS]

How old? What is the model number (not serial number) That should be on a plate on the mounting bracket and also stamped on a core plug on the engine itself. That will tell us the year of manufacture.

Check the plugs, correct type and gap, check the points if it is that old. If it is a coil and points system look at the condition of the coil and consider that the condenser may be failing as that will make it difficult to start.

Check that you have a good spark at the plug.

You are not trying to use old fuel are you?

You are not trying to start it too deeply immersed are you? (On the other hand dont run it out of the water or you'll destroy the water pump impeller)

Do not completely disregard the posibility that the carb jets may need cleaning especially if fuel has always been left in the carb rather than having been run dry evey time.

My 6hp is fussy about the choke but it usually fires up after 3 or 4 pulls somethimes it takes more though.

 

[m1taylor]

Hi, the number is E2RCTD, 8028649. Is that electronic ignition, or magneto and points? Fuel is fresh, spark appears good, and like I say, once started and off the choke, it's fine. It's just slower to get started than I would have expected. Could that be poor compression - ie which might make a cold start difficult, but a warm start ok?

 

[trouville]

Try opening the choke pulling the cord once closeing the choke pulling the chord once or twice.If it dosent start open choke again pull once more and try again.

 

[VicS]

That's an '83 model. Just to explain E= Evinrude (J=johnson), 2 = 2hp, R= rope start, C & T are the year letters where:

I N T R O D U C E S = 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

The final D is not significant

That one does have a magneto and points ignition system so my comments about that stand.

Compression is very unlikely to be a problem unless the engine has been seriously abused , it is not very high on 2 strokes anyway but you ought to be able to get some feel for it when pulling it over. Leaky cranksaft seals could be but to renew those is a major job of course

The carb is more complex than fitted to much later models having adjustments for both high and low speed running. The adjusting screw at the bottom is the high speed one while the one at the top is the low speed one.

If you strip it down determine how far the screws are up from the bottom of thier range before you start. The slow one should be open about 1½ turns but I'm not sure about the fast one. (Final adjustments are with it running anyway)

You may find that the carb simply needs adjusting for optimum performance. Worth a twiddle with the slow running adjustment perhaps but not until you are certain it really is all clean and gum free.

Btw it is probably best use a 50:1 fuel mix even if it is marked 100:1.

You may find the engine parts diagrams on the BRP website useful.

Should add that the place to get really serious advice on outboards is the iBoats forums where you will find a separate board for each make.

 

[Kawasaki]

If it starts and runs fine when up to working temperature that signifies that there is no problem with coil or condenser.
Points gap and spark plug gap may cause concern. Not so much the plug gap. More the contact breaker gap.
Check them(the points) should be about 15 thou at the widest point, or thereabouts.
Check the surfaces of the points(breakers) are not pitted or that one side has a "peak" and the other has a "hole" ie that the surfaces are flat.
Normal setting for the slow running jet is about 1/12 turns out as VicS said.
If She runs ok warm there is not much wrong, try 1 turn out for the Slow running ie Pilot jet to see if there is any difference.
3 pulls from cold and no joy means there is something amiss.
In your case, if like You say the motor is ok warm suspect the previous + choke working properly?
Crank seals deteriation will affect starting but usally idling when warm also.
What oil and ratio are You bunging in?

 

[m1taylor]

Thanks for that, and Vics too. I am putting in fresh 50:1. I will check the points next and buy a new plug. I agree, it should start within three pulls. Getting to the points looks a job in itself, but needs must.

 

[VicS]

You have to remove the flywheel to get at the points. It is on a taper so unless you have access to a suitable puller the "Seagull" method of removal may be worth a try (on Seagulls you must not use a puller) Undo the retaining nut until it is flush with the end of the crank shaft then while an assistant holds the whole engine by the flywheel strike the nut with a decent sized hammer. It would be a good idea to put a bit of copper or brass between the hammer and nut as you do not want to damage the threads. Don't loose the key.

You do need to get the points gap correct as the setting will affect the timing. If necessary ask for advice on iBoats but hopefully someone with a workshop manual, or even the original owners manual, will come to the rescue.

It is one of the things you have to check but I would say that is is very unlikely that the points are the cause of your problems. Check the easy things first and progress towards the more difficult.