Evens waterless coolant

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dilly

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hi i have a thornycroft 108 and i am going to change the coolant and clean it it engine out and replace the thermostat. was wondering if i could replace the coolant with (Evens Waterless Coolant )180c boiling point no water No overheating,No pressure No,corrosion No erosion. just wondering about my domestic hot water system will it be ok and still get hot. i am thinking ok keeping my boat in spain any help on this will be appreciated thanks David
 
Just had a look at their web site. Looks like good stuff. They even have a product aimed at the marine market. have to do more research but looks good at the moment.
Does anyone on here know any more?

Simes
 
Also had a look. Can't see that this type of product is necessary in a low output lightly stressed engine such as the OPs. Drain and clean the engine and refill with the correct mix of water and coolant with antifeeze and corrosion inhibitors and make sure the heat exchanger is clear should be sufficient.
 
I looked at this in the past. Unless you're starting with a clean/dry (new basically) engine, you need to use a 'preparation' product to absorb any water that remains in the system before filling with the waterless coolant. For the volume of my engine (Thorny 345) it was going to cost north of £500, so I replaced with free tap water and appropriate anti-freeze!
 
Latestarter recommends Fleetguard DC4A - we have wet liners in many Thornys and cavitation corrosion and breakdown of the liners is prevented by DC4A.
 
Lazy Kipper said:
Latestarter recommends Fleetguard DC4A - we have wet liners in many Thornys and cavitation corrosion and breakdown of the liners is prevented by DC4A.
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Interesting product that I had not come across before. I have looked at severe cavitation damage in large wet liners on diesels and gas engines, sufficient to perforate the liner walls. This stuff might well solve it.
 
It undoubtedly is not a chemical process, purely mechanical. However, in systems where the product is corrosive the nascent surfaces produced by cavitation are readily attacked, increasing the corrosion rate enormously. The Fleetguard literature emphasises the need for using good quality water for coolant, presumably this is one of the reasons.
 
and apparently its just one application you never have to change it i dont know if you can reuse it after say any work has to be done.
 
well i have a old jag and its going in there but that stays in the garage lol and think i will replace it in my boat also
 
vyv_cox said:
It undoubtedly is not a chemical process, purely mechanical. However, in systems where the product is corrosive the nascent surfaces produced by cavitation are readily attacked, increasing the corrosion rate enormously. The Fleetguard literature emphasises the need for using good quality water for coolant, presumably this is one of the reasons.
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Agreed but the waterless coolant seems a bit of an "overkill" a good corrosion inhibitor/ antifreeze is all that's required - or make the engine properly. Bore off-set may reduce the phenomenon.
 
There was an episode of Wheeler Dealers on Discovery where Edd China fitted some to a classic car.
1) I believe you have to run a cleaner through to evacuate all the water before use? 2) It is rather pricey.
I would think that a charge of normal coolant mix coupled with a good cooler clean would be a far more cost effective solution.
 
I thought many engines actually rely on small areas boiling at times to get the heat away from hot spots?
The latent heat of steam is huge, so it is very effective.
That is why water is so good for the job.
Most engines are developed to be cooled by water, changing to another fluid without considering the full implications might not be a good idea in all cases.
 
Tranona said:
Also had a look. Can't see that this type of product is necessary in a low output lightly stressed engine such as the OPs. Drain and clean the engine and refill with the correct mix of water and coolant with antifeeze and corrosion inhibitors and make sure the heat exchanger is clear should be sufficient.
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I've been adding Red Line 'Water Wetter' to the coolant in the MGB and boat. The MG definitely has less tendency to overheat in summer; I have no proof about the Yanmar.
 
This stuff gets used in high performance petrol engines, helps reduce hot spots and reduce knock. Other advantage is it effectively makes the cooling system a low pressure system. The coolant could be 120C and you can open the filler cap without coolant spraying everywhere.
 
I'm curious to find out how well this stuff works. We supply thousands of heat exchangers per year yet I don't think we're ever asked to design a heat exchanger with these types of coolants. Normally it is fresh water, sea water or water glycol.

Water is an excellent fluid for removing heat from oil or hot water. When glycol is added to the mix it does actually reduce it's ability to remove heat (although this is obviously required to prevent corrosion and built in to the design) so I do wonder how removing all of the water from the coolant will affect the performance? I believe that if this stuff really is as good as it sounds then some of our OEMs would be starting to ask us about using it instead of water.
 
This product is used in the classic car market , when these cars were designed there was less slower traffic ,
so the cars could have a better cooling due to more frequent " runs " .
with todays congestion there was a marketing potential for a more efficient cooling medium so a product called "water wetter " was developed ,
and by account it is very successful in lowering engine and underbonnet temps .
The thing about this product is that it - cannot be mixed with water ! -
only the same product must be used for topping up .

it is also used in modified /race engines to great benefit when using higher compression which generate far greater heat .
 
grafozz said:
The thing about this product is that it - cannot be mixed with water ! -
only the same product must be used for topping up .
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That's not what their information says http://www.advantage-motorsport.co....e-355ml.html?gclid=COLk1Z231boCFVMbtAodNVgAGw

Unique agent for cooling systems that doubles the wetting ability of water. Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20°. Rust and corrosion protection allows for use of straight water in racing or reduced antifreeze levels in warm climates. Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature. 1 x 355ml bottle treats approx 15 litres of coolant

There are many independent tests of this additive on line, mostly from USA. Nobody finds the 20 degree C, 30 degree F reduction, I read one that found 5 degrees F but that seems to be the best. There may be some benefits for race cars, questionable, but for everyday motoring, and almost certainly boats, there appear to be none whatsoever.
 
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