essentials for Med cruising.

I´d add :

1. Wind Generator to complement the solar panels
2. Dinghy on davits with small outboard to facilitate movement
3. A comfortable cockpit (particularly fitted cushions and speakers)
4. Good literature and / or company, depending on your preference

And flexibility with the wind, if it´s not blowing right, then go another day or go somewhere else!
 
They're already there in force

...Wouldnt a displacement motor cruiser...

and easily recognisable as they usually have masts and rolled-up sails.

We were told early and accurately after arriving in the Med: "There are two types of motorboat here, those with masts and those without."

Re: weather forecasts. The great thing about the Med is that there's lots to choose from, so if you trawl the interweb long enough, you'll find one that suits; we've had a cracking forecast for every major passage we've made this year (F4/5 on or just behind the beam) though sadly, the weather's invariably seen/chosen a different one.

The one important thing that seems to be missing from the list is an equally keen and eager boat-wife/crew-mate to sail with you.
 
re last post , have forwarded this link to my wife ....

I hope to have excellent crew and be the model captain - and hope the weather is just perfect
 
What Nobody has yet mentioned....

......is a decent sized, robust holding tank.......future-proofed by having deck mounted pump out and rinse out facilities....er....and if you`ve got any sense you will arrange it so that everything enters and leaves it through the top face of it.
 
FRIDGES
Don't underestimate how important an efficient well managed fridge is.

You must sort this out before you leave temperate shores.

Problems you will face if you don't:

  • Running the engine all day and night to charge and finding it difficult to keep the batteries charged.
  • Annoying the neighbours because you have to charge at 10 pm to get through the night.
  • Icing up - because the plates get too cold but can't keep the fridge cold enough because of poor insulation. Defrost 3 times a week.....
  • Buying ice to put in the fridge - every day you will have to work out where you will get it.

In short you will wish you had sorted it out before you left. Sorting out may be as bad as ripping the whole thing out and starting again, relatively easy at home, but in Greece???......

ANCHORS:
to make life easy:
  • Get a decent Anchor,
  • sort out 80 meters of rode (I prefer all chain for simplicity)
  • Get an electric windlass (over 35 ft)
  • Have a remote control in cockpit for windlass (you can more stern to by yourself).
  • Sort out Anchor snubbing arrangements for heavy weather.

SHADE
As others have said - sort out shade arrangements. Suggest also hatch covers as they keep the sun out of the boat (and protect the perspex hatches)
 
All good OP's suggestions,
I have one of these, which I bought after a kindly Italian skipper freed me from 7 chains laid over my anchor chain(the flotilla came in!).
Also used this year to free anchor from an electric cable linking two islands, which seemed to stray a bit from its charted position!!!
 
To sail the Med you need a *sailing* boat, otherwise you'll have to motor (or stay put if the weather looks bad).

In 2012 I sailed 2000 nm (tranfers & all) & used about 300 lt of diesel.

In my previous boat, (heavier, slower) I would have mostly motored.
 
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......is a decent sized, robust holding tank.......future-proofed by having deck mounted pump out and rinse out facilities....er....and if you`ve got any sense you will arrange it so that everything enters and leaves it through the top face of it.

Now why is it important that it's top access only? I like our arrangement that does have access and a deck hole for pumping out from the top, but has a simple gravity system from the bottom of the tank to the seacock for all waste. Emptying the holding tank therefore consists of just opening the seacock and leaving it.

I guess we will eventually have a hose come away or a leak but the chances are then when that happens there will be very little in tank. With top loading only, if the tank
ever splits or rusts through then you will usually have contents in there to spread around the bilges.

happy to be better informed.
 
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I have one of those hooks and have used it in anger a few times, I have only ever seen them sold in Italy.............says a lot about Italian anchoring techniques.

I bought mine in Birmingham. Never seen anyone anchor properly there.;)

It's a Jimmy Green one, made in aluminium. I've used it a few times and it works well, except for being so light. When I have needed it to release our chain from a heavy one in deep water I find that the hook won't go that far down, prevented by the buoyancy of the rope. I tie a diving weight on it. I have seen the hooks in bronze but they were something like €40 each.
 
Bought my "meat Hook" in Santo Stephano Monte Argentario , near where the Costa Concordia did not anchor at Gighlio!
 
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I have an old horse shoe iron with two shackles trough some nail holes. Works the same way as the fancy chain hook. Bit rusty tho´. Knowing your knots is good when lifting a super heavy chain and later releasing it.
 
Now why is it important that it's top access only? I like our arrangement that does have access and a deck hole for pumping out from the top, but has a simple gravity system from the bottom of the tank to the seacock for all waste. Emptying the holding tank therefore consists of just opening the seacock and leaving it.

I guess we will eventually have a hose come away or a leak but the chances are then when that happens there will be very little in tank. With top loading only, if the tank
ever splits or rusts through then you will usually have contents in there to spread around the bilges.

happy to be better informed.

Ok.....Well, with a gravity emptying system.....it is an INEVITABILITY (sooner or later)that the outlet hose will need replacing....and with it a dirty smelly job probably in an almost inaccsessable place. The outlet may also become blocked and with it the prospect of having to remove the hose.....and when it unblocks......poo poo poo.

Any tank in theory can either split or rust...but it is a most unlikely prospect...especially if it is a 3/4" thick plastic/nylon tank from Tek Tanks...(like wot I have got). If the outlet becomes blocked in a toploading tank...there is always the option of disconnecting the outlet pipe at the suction pump end and either rodding it or squirting a hose and/or chemicals down to clear the blockage.......and the contents have only one route out of there.......through a suction pump.
 
Ok.....Well, with a gravity emptying system.....it is an INEVITABILITY (sooner or later)that the outlet hose will need replacing....and with it a dirty smelly job probably in an almost inaccsessable place. The outlet may also become blocked and with it the prospect of having to remove the hose.....and when it unblocks......poo poo poo.

Any tank in theory can either split or rust...but it is a most unlikely prospect...especially if it is a 3/4" thick plastic/nylon tank from Tek Tanks...(like wot I have got). If the outlet becomes blocked in a toploading tank...there is always the option of disconnecting the outlet pipe at the suction pump end and either rodding it or squirting a hose and/or chemicals down to clear the blockage.......and the contents have only one route out of there.......through a suction pump.

The hose on my gravity tank is about eight inches long. It has been in situ for several years now, no degradation so far. If a blockage took place there is an inspection hatch in the top of the tank, through which the outlet can be rodded.

My previous pumped system caused endless trouble and I would definitely not go back to one.
 
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