Erberspacher remote gsm start instead of the fridge

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Bikerwookie

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I'm after fter a bit of input on my latest project - starting the eberspacher by text message whilst travelling to the boat. It takes 30mins to get toasty if we don't use the fan heater to help it out.

At the moment I already have turn the fridge on by text so the ice is ready for the gin by the time we get there at the weekend. I think if my logic is correct I can turn the eberspacher on when it's winter so the boat is warm enough to enjoy the gin by just connecting another wire.

At the moment we have a d4 with the 801 thermostatic controller. My thoughts are that if I give the yellow wire +12v on the back of the controller the eberspacher will fire and still use the temperature set on the 801 despite it being turned off on the 801.

Research shows this so far but I will be using my own gsm alarm module to switch it. I just need the wiring clarification.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GSM-remot...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/archive/index.php/t-272823.html

So to all the you genius people out there is my logic correct and will I blow the 801 if I wire 12v into the yellow wire whilst the 801 has been turned off by the button?

Thanks in advance
 
I've been wondering the exact same thing. We also have a 801 controller and I was hoping I'd be able to turn on the Eber remotely (using our Raspberry Pi).
I'm interested about using this yellow wire you speak of.
Could anyone confirm whether this works?
 
The yellow wire will start the unit but i couldn't comment on if the temp sensor/stat will still work. I think the grey wire controls temp but im not sure how. If its not connected maybe it just goes full speed??
 
The grey wire in the 801 manual id marked as mod (omega) - I don't have the omega symbol on my ipad. I presume that means it's a modulate resistance ie when the temp in cabin is lower than requested the resistance is higher and vica versa for lower. I can test that before wiring it I suppose.

That would also make sense with the rheostat that I haven't got(I have the 801 instead) - the rheostat just being a fixed resistance that is changed manually.

Assuming all this I think ill just feed the 12v into the yellow wire and put a diode in so as not to feed the 801 with the external +12v signal.

A 1hr timer relay may be a good idea too so once I text it just runs for 1hr then goes on to control from the 801.

Many thanks for all your input. It has egged me on enough to give it a go. Should get to it at the weekend it'll either work or I'll be ordering another controller!
 
Cardo said:
Anyone know if the 12v reaching the 801 would damage it? Just wondering if a diode is strictly necessary?
Click to expand...

For the cost of a diode, I wouldn't want to be the first to find out. Why not try to get hold of a PDF wiring diagram for the Eber GSM module and have a look at that, I only have them for the Webo GSM or I would offer. It is worth noting that most if not all factory remotes work on the heaters bus signal, usually via the diagnostic lead rather than a simple 12v input and as such are independent of the timer, though neither will work unless you set the temperature setting (on air heaters) before leaving the vehicle / boat.
 
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Good news people the 801 is still alive and I can now confirm that:

801 does not need a diode just hook +12v to the yellow wire and the erberspacher will run as if it has been turned on by the 801

Temperature control still works.

I now have it wired up so just a text turns it on. My text alarm now alerts me if the temp is 0.5c and I can decide to heat the boat from my bed at home.
 
Bikerwookie said:
Good news people the 801 is still alive and I can now confirm that:

801 does not need a diode just hook +12v to the yellow wire and the erberspacher will run as if it has been turned on by the 801

Temperature control still works.

I now have it wired up so just a text turns it on. My text alarm now alerts me if the temp is 0.5c and I can decide to heat the boat from my bed at home.
Click to expand...

Excellent, thanks for the feedback!
This shall be another item added to our Raspberry Pi control :D
 
That sounds really cool! (Errr or warm really) Is it really as simple as buying the Eber GSM kit, connecting a couple of wires and you can then text for a toasty boat?
Any chance of a simple 'step by step' of how you did yours that I could follow?
 
I didn't use the eberspacher gsm kit. I already had one of these fitted. Ever gsm is expensive.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Band...8649?pt=UK_Burglar_Alarms&hash=item3cc233be09

It has a function allowing you to text it and it closes a relay on the alarm system. That output just goes straight to the back of the 801 controller on the yellow wire. I also have a switch for summer so that it either switches the fridge on in the summer or the erbespacher In the winter

My system also has pirs in the saloon and magnetic contact breaks on the lockers and smoke detectors that are wireless so the unit texts me letting me know if I have a break in and where or if it's on fire.

The system also has 4 wired inputs that I use for the following each of which can have its own text message ie "bilge pump is on"

1/ Automatic bilge pump indicator - I hate auto bilge pumps unless they have a counter telling you they have gone off. This way it texts me if it has run. Just used a 12v relay.
2/ shore power has been disconnected - just used a 240v relay
3/ LPG or carbon monoxide alarm has gone off. They wire straight into the unit. Mine runs off 12v
4/ House battery is below 12.3v. I used. A voltage sensing relay hooked into the unit.
5/ A temperature sensor relay that can be set up to either text me when it's freezing so I can fire the erberspacher or I can set it as an alarm for exhaust temperature. The temp probe is on the exhaust mixer elbow.

Other advantages are that you can listen in to the boat when the alarm goes off and it will text or phone 10 numbers.
The manual is in chinglish but can be worked out.

You can by the boatsteward version for ease of fitting but it costs more.
 
That's great :-)

Just one thing though, if the voltage is simply connected or disconnected from the yellow wire, how do you deal with the shutdown or do you not shut down via GSM? As I understand it they are very sensitive to needing their proper cool down routines followed rather than just switching off. Or have I missed something.
 
matt1 said:
That's great :-)

Just one thing though, if the voltage is simply connected or disconnected from the yellow wire, how do you deal with the shutdown or do you not shut down via GSM? As I understand it they are very sensitive to needing their proper cool down routines followed rather than just switching off. Or have I missed something.
Click to expand...

The 801 controller when turned off just stops the +12v on the yellow wire and the heater goes through it shut down process. With the gsm system I am doing just the same.
 
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