Epoxy question...

Iain C

Iain C

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I've done a lot of work with epoxy but have a question for a situation I've not come across before. I have a 8mm aluminium bar, that I want to mount a round knob on the end. The bar is threaded to M8. The knob is already cut to M10. I want to make an epoxy "adapter" to make the two fit together, and crucially I want to be able to remove the knob if needed by unscrewing it. So my plan is to drill the knob out a bit (and roughly, to increase mechanical grip) to get some more "meat" in the form of epoxy in there, put the bar in place, and pour the epoxy in and let it harden.

So the question is, what is the best thing to "coat" the alloy bar in so the epoxy doesn't stick to the ally and I can unscrew it?

In case anyone is interested, this is the application...it's the gear knob on this kids ride on scale Land Rover I am building...heavily modified mobility scooter running gear underneath.

39353131015_3f33126a60_c.jpg


37921588395_ba4c5909d6_c.jpg
 
Rather then mess about with epoxy, I'd be inclined to use some sort of proprietary insert. A standard Helicoil/Recoil-type insert won't take up the gap, but there are plenty that will. Google "thread insert 8mm'.

P.S. If you're intent on epoxy, why not just glue the knob on after scoring its inner surface? With a bit of heat it'll come off easily if needed. I'm also tempted to wonder if an 8mm ally rod is man enough for the job.
 
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May I have the pleasure of being the first to congratulate on the remarkable workmanship here.

As to your question, i would use release wax. but you may still have difficulties. The epoxy will take up every variation in the surface and thus it may not unscrew even if there is no actual adhesion. Could you lathe up an adaptor or file up a nut to epoxy in the knob?
 
Thanks guys...much appreciated. Of course...a rivnut is perfect...and duly ordered. I'll be using one for the slightly smaller dummy overdrive lever too.

macd 8mm is fine, there's just a few small electrical switches at the bottom of the lever, and it's very well supported by the slot in the transmission tunnel cover. It's only a very short lever too remember. knuterikt, the knob is just too small to succesfully tap.

davidej...many thanks. Although I wonder if I could have probably built a full size kit car in the time it's taken me to build it so far!!
 
Series 1 and 2 both had headlamps in the grill. The big difference is the Series 1 had straight doors without the rolled swage line, which appeared in the S2 in 1958. And yes, a 1958 door will essentially still fit the last Defender off the production line.
 
Remarkable bit of work.

Is it for Prince George, at Balmoral?

Looks like the sort of phenomenally expensive custom one-offs sold in Harrods' toy department.
 
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dancrane said:
Remarkable bit of work.

Is it for Prince George, at Balmoral?

Looks like the sort phenomenally expensive custom one-offs sold in Harrods' toy department.
Click to expand...

Haha well the bloody thing hasn't been cheap even as a DIY job!

Full build thread here if you want the details, sorry I feel like I've hijacked a sailing forum as epoxy experts would be hanging around and I'm not even using the epoxy method now!!!

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=207&t=1683084&i=0
 
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