Engine temperature monitoring, what do I need?

Murv

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Boat: '89 Turbo 36 with twin Volvo TAMD61A's.
The lower helm is fitted with engine temperature gauges, the flybridge only has rev counters.
What I need is a long term solution to monitor engine temperatures from the flybridge.

The risks of overheating are mainly from a) failure on the raw water circuit or b) failure on the closed circuit, as I understand it.
In either case, monitoring the temperature of the closed circuit would indicate a problem on either, whereas monitoring exhaust temperature (post water inlet) would give me earlier earning on a raw water system failure, but wouldn't detect if a catastrophic failure occurred on the closed circuit? (unless I was looking for a temperature drop I guess?)

Previously, JFM recommended a maretron unit with thermocouples that would send data to the MFD's. It looks great, but would rely on me getting it to connect to the current, elderly Raymarine kit.
I also would prefer the stand alone option of simple temperature gauges in case of MFD failure, or if I'm simply not using the MFD if we're just pottering around on the river.
A complete standalone maretron system is available, but the cost is several thousand and it's simply not worth it on an old boat.

There are loads of cheap 12v thermometers with remote probes available, but none with a long enough probe lead (I reckon I'd need something iro 30' long)

One simple, cheap solution seems to be a sensor on the cooling system that fires a warning buzzer/lights remotely, but I'd far rather have the reassurance of actual figures to check, also to know that the thing is still working.

Any ideas? Or is it simply not possible?
And, why would Fairline have not fitted temperature gauges on the flybridge, surely they are essential if driving "up top" on a sunny day?
 
No need to spend thousands.

I fitted one of these to each exhaust elbow, and because they were so cheap I also fitted one in the engine bay to measure engine bay temp. They've been fitted for about 3-4 years now, work great and look good too.

You can extend the sensor wire length no problem.

OK so they aren't all that clear in bright sunlight but hey, just how much value do you want from your £15?

I haven't fitted alarm buzzers to mine, although that's easy to do, mainly because of the heat soak situation. If you stop after a run (eg to go through a lock) then restart, the alarms will go crazy until you've cooled them off enough by revving the engines. Too much faff for me, but you may decide differently.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-L...MU-/172052608340?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
 
Boat: '89 Turbo 36 with twin Volvo TAMD61A's.
The lower helm is fitted with engine temperature gauges, the flybridge only has rev counters.
What I need is a long term solution to monitor engine temperatures from the flybridge.

The risks of overheating are mainly from a) failure on the raw water circuit or b) failure on the closed circuit, as I understand it.
In either case, monitoring the temperature of the closed circuit would indicate a problem on either, whereas monitoring exhaust temperature (post water inlet) would give me earlier earning on a raw water system failure, but wouldn't detect if a catastrophic failure occurred on the closed circuit? (unless I was looking for a temperature drop I guess?)

Previously, JFM recommended a maretron unit with thermocouples that would send data to the MFD's. It looks great, but would rely on me getting it to connect to the current, elderly Raymarine kit.
I also would prefer the stand alone option of simple temperature gauges in case of MFD failure, or if I'm simply not using the MFD if we're just pottering around on the river.
A complete standalone maretron system is available, but the cost is several thousand and it's simply not worth it on an old boat.

There are loads of cheap 12v thermometers with remote probes available, but none with a long enough probe lead (I reckon I'd need something iro 30' long)

One simple, cheap solution seems to be a sensor on the cooling system that fires a warning buzzer/lights remotely, but I'd far rather have the reassurance of actual figures to check, also to know that the thing is still working.

Any ideas? Or is it simply not possible?
And, why would Fairline have not fitted temperature gauges on the flybridge, surely they are essential if driving "up top" on a sunny day?

If its only and alarm you are looking get some of these and connect to a buzzer and/or LED.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281397079695?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I also have fitted a water flow switch in the input raw water cooling to alarm if the raw water flow stops.

The only engine temperature indicator I have is the engine fresh water circulation in case I have a leek in the fresh water circuit.
 
No need to spend thousands.

I fitted one of these to each exhaust elbow, and because they were so cheap I also fitted one in the engine bay to measure engine bay temp. They've been fitted for about 3-4 years now, work great and look good too.

You can extend the sensor wire length no problem.

OK so they aren't all that clear in bright sunlight but hey, just how much value do you want from your £15?

I haven't fitted alarm buzzers to mine, although that's easy to do, mainly because of the heat soak situation. If you stop after a run (eg to go through a lock) then restart, the alarms will go crazy until you've cooled them off enough by revving the engines. Too much faff for me, but you may decide differently.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-L...MU-/172052608340?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Thanks for that, looks perfect :)

Thought I'd have a browse on ebay though, just to see if there was anything smaller available as I only really want the temperature readout.
Found these, available with a 10M lead and alarm option and with a Red & Green display option so I can have port & starboard engines!
I've ordered them as well worth a punt at that price.

Thanks for the idea though, and I've noted the point about heat soak. I'll add a toggle switch so that they can be switched off if that becomes a problem
 
If its only and alarm you are looking get some of these and connect to a buzzer and/or LED.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281397079695?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I also have fitted a water flow switch in the input raw water cooling to alarm if the raw water flow stops.

The only engine temperature indicator I have is the engine fresh water circulation in case I have a leek in the fresh water circuit.

Thanks for that, they look very useful.
It's really the temp readout I'm after though, mainly for the reassurance that it's all still working.
There does actually appear to be a couple of sensors mounted to the exhausts already, but if they work and what they do I have no idea. I don't really want to try shorting them to see if they do do anything, I'm just going to assume that unknown wiring on an old boat = probably not working.
 
On my Turbo 36 the TAMD60Cs didn't use the glow plug warning light, so I used one of the cheap temp alarms from eBay with the switch wired to light up the unused lights. Simply by connecting at the lower helm behind the dash in the fwd loo, the fly helm lit up via the standard wiring loom.

I set the alarm at ~ 45oC, so it didn't have to rise very much to trigger the alarm, giving time to investigate before things got too hot.

To get the rest of the engine data on the fly I used a Noland RS11 via an NMEA2000 network onto my Garmin GPSMAP750.

Cost wise all of this excluding the plotter about £400. Worth seeing if your older Raymarine plotter will display engine data.

I did a write up on my blogsite which is still available www.turbo36.wordpress.com
 
Thanks all, some very elegant solutions there :)
I shall use the cheapy thermometers as a temporary solution and then sort out something long term.
The raymarine kit will display engine information but (I think) only through NMEA0183. I'll have a trawl through the manuals.

Jon, that looks about the best dedicated setup that I've seen for the price.

The duplicate gauges are a great idea and will keep some of the originality, although I suspect the price of the gauges will means it's cheaper to go for a digital solution.
 
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