Engine room camera specs Q

[vas]

evening all,

due to a bad back I can do bugger all on the boat, so I'm on the keyboard
Planning to install a engine room camera which will be broadcasted to the Garmin plotter on lower helm.
Fair enough and easy to do, however one main Q has to be answered:

IR on normal?
If normal it means I should have the lights on the e/r practically for ever (or as long as the engine or genny is running) and I'll have to select a very sensitive camera as lighting down there is not great...
If I go IR, will I be able to spot any problems during normal operation, say a cracked hose pissing water (or some other liquid) around?

What do you suggest?

hopefully CHEAPm cheerful and WIDE ANGLE suggestions outputing composite signal as that's what the plotter takes!

cheers

V.

 

[Nick T]

I've one fitted in the engine compartment on my 40ft twin engine. The IR isn't brilliant & needs the engine bay lights on. It's directed at the bilge & will pick up liquids sloshing around. Try this website:
http://www.henrys.co.uk/electronics.htm
I've used them for other cameras & their tech help & support is very good
You can fit additional bright LED lighting which won't drain the batteries too much as an aid

 

[jfm]

I have tried both because I have a camera that works with normal light and switches to IR in low light (Garmin GC10 camera), and I can turn off/on the e/room lights from my dashboard. Answer is that IR image, while reasonable, gives you nothing like the picture quality of proper lighting, so I always have my e/room lights on when underway

 

[vas]

thanks for the suggestions.

Seems that hi sensitivity cameras is the right route then.
Got to rewire the e/r lights to turn on automatically when engines or genny is running and only use the switch to turn them on only when getting there for any visit/inspection/maintenance work. Will think of a way to do it.

cheers

V.

 

[NYboater]

I just installed the Flir thermal AX8 camera. While expensive, and a somewhat limited FOV, the thermal alarms and picture provides me with peace of mind.

 

[oldgit]

Installed a very basic IR camera in engine compartment and monitor at helm of a Princess recently.
It has seperate screen in order to monitor the engine room without having to switch any nav screen away from primary tasks of plotting or depth.
No wiring other than locating 12V at helm and in engine room.
With camera on max IR setting gives basic black and white image of both engines and bilges.
Any unusual hot spots on engine block or any hot water leaks from engines into bilges it should be very obvious immediately.
In this case,using engine room lighting would not indicate a change of situation quite so obviously.
Obviously a budget solution but it does work.

 

[the griff]

Installed a very basic IR camera in engine compartment and monitor at helm of a Princess recently.
With camera on max IR setting gives basic black and white image of both engines and bilges.
Any unusual hot spots on engine block or any hot water leaks from engines into bilges it should be very obvious immediately.

Not quite sure how a ir camera would indicate a hotspot, doesn't the ir just provide a infrared light so the camera can see in the dark, surely only a thermal camera would indicate a hotspot?

 

[Blue Sunray]

Not quite sure how a ir camera would indicate a hotspot, doesn't the ir just provide a infrared light so the camera can see in the dark, surely only a thermal camera would indicate a hotspot?

I'd agree, I think there may be some confusion here between 'near' and 'far' IR systems, the latter normally being termed thermal. The FLIR AX8 (thermal camera) system referenced above would show 'hot spots' albeit at a very low resolution, the others mentioned are active 'near' IR systems where use is made of an IR light source - in an engine room I can't think of any advantage of the latter over visible light illumination.

This gives a pretty succinct explanation: https://www.beneaththewaves.net/Photography/Thermal_versus_Near_Infrared.html

 

[jfm]

Not quite sure how a ir camera would indicate a hotspot, doesn't the ir just provide a infrared light so the camera can see in the dark, surely only a thermal camera would indicate a hotspot?

Agree. A standard IR camera doesn't give you a thermal image - that requires seeing much lower wavelengths

 

[the griff]

Over the last few years I have had quite a lot to do with night vision cameras and ir light, albeit for a different use. I have tinkered and made different night vision devices to go on rifles and for spotting vermin at a distance, upto 400 yards+, all made with a Cctv camera and a ir led.

To see a good image you need enough ir spread evenly accross the field of view but more importantly the correct amount of ir, too much and it will white out.
Alot of cameras advertise low light capability in "lux" but completely ignore the stated lux figure, each manufacturer works it out differently and the Chinese just tell you what you want to here. I would think you wouldn't need an expensive camera for close in work like in a engine bay, just match the correct amount of ir to a cheap camera and you should get a cracking image.

Here is a thread of the best ir cameras we have found for homemade night vision devises which handle ir very well and will even work in low light situations without any ir, you could change the lens over in most of them as well to adapt them for closer, wide field of view image's.

The rest of the forum makes good reading as well if you are into night vision and thermal imaging.

http://www.nightvisionforumuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=14430

 

[oldgit]

Basically the very simple set up was for early indication if hot coolant was being discharged into the bilge from anywhere on engines and to monitor for fire around turbochargers.
The screen definately shows temperture variation on different engine parts by the variation of the white glow from each item.
You can watch the changes in intensity as the engine gets up to operating temperature.
It did give a suprisingly detailed IR image of the engines considering the quality of the equipment used.

 

[the griff]

Basically the very simple set up was for early indication if hot coolant was being discharged into the bilge from anywhere on engines and to monitor for fire around turbochargers.
The screen definately shows temperture variation on different engine parts by the variation of the white glow from each item.
You can watch the changes in intensity as the engine gets up to operating temperature.
It did give a suprisingly detailed IR image of the engines considering the quality of the equipment used.

I totally agree it's a good idea, one I might do myself when I get other things done to the boat first, at least if a pipe comes loose and water/coolent starts leaking you may just notice it before its too late, or if there is suddenly unexplained liquid splashing around in the bilge.
I would be very surprised if you can see changes in temperature with a ir camera though, I would suspect it's just the way the ir is reflecting on the picture. I am by no means being argumentative, I just wouldn't want you to be relying on it if it doesn't do what you think it is doing, I may be wrong!!

 

[Blue Sunray]

Yes, but why use IR illum in an ER at all? I see no advantage of (active, near) IR over visible light in this situation and several disadvantages.

 

[the griff]

Yes, but why use IR illum in an ER at all? I see no advantage of (active, near) IR over visible light in this situation and several disadvantages.

You are probably correct, a couple of well placed led lights would probably be as good and the picture would be in colour, although they are some cameras with built in ir that would simplify the fitting due to less wires and lights to install and you can also get a good clean crisp image with the black and white picture the ir makes. If you go for a low light ir camera and you have vents in your engine bay there is a good chance the camera will use the bit of daylight sneaking through to get a picture without additional ir or lighting meaning you could only ever need to put any light on in the dark or dawn/dusk.
Everyone to thier own I suppose.

 

[Blue Sunray]

One idea that I have been toying with is fitting a couple of cameras looking down through the glass tops of my raw water strainers which are rather inconveniently mounted too close to the deckhead (which is removable, though not as easily as I would like, for inspection). However they would need illumination and they could have to be petty close if not in contact with the lids and I suspect the available cameras will not be ale to focus in that close in.

 

[the griff]

One idea that I have been toying with is fitting a couple of cameras looking down through the glass tops of my raw water strainers which are rather inconveniently mounted too close to the deckhead (which is removable, though not as easily as I would like, for inspection). However they would need illumination and they could have to be petty close if not in contact with the lids and I suspect the available cameras will not be ale to focus in that close in.

If you look on the nightvisionforumuk I have linked to I think you will find most of the diy night vision setups used to mount onto rifle scopes are basically a camera focused around 2 or 3 inch's away onto a diameter of no more than 2 inch's on the end of the scope, I would think most of the camera's used on that site would more than do the job, a 12mm or 16mm lens would focus nicely only inches away on any inspection window.

Have a look on this site, they are sponsors of the forum I am talking about, give them a ring and I am sure they will be able to advise you and supply everything to do the job.

http://www.sure24.co.uk/solutions/night-vision

 

[Blue Sunray]

If you look on the nightvisionforumuk I have linked to I think you will find most of the diy night vision setups used to mount onto rifle scopes are basically a camera focused around 2 or 3 inch's away onto a diameter of no more than 2 inch's on the end of the scope, I would think most of the camera's used on that site would more than do the job, a 12mm or 16mm lens would focus nicely only inches away on any inspection window.

Have a look on this site, they are sponsors of the forum I am talking about, give them a ring and I am sure they will be able to advise you and supply everything to do the job.

http://www.sure24.co.uk/solutions/night-vision

Thanks - I really should have thought of that.

 

[Happy Dayz]

Hi guys,
I install CCTv for part of my business.

I would go with 10 watt 12 volt LED floods for good illumination, sturdyness and waterproofing.

IP cameras offer even focus over the entire view, but need more light than than anolgue units for colour images, easily suppled with above lights.

Analogue cameras you have near mid or far focus to deal with.

I would pick a camera with intelligent auto backlight compensation to reduce reflected glare from gloss or light surface's.

Most ip cameras are good at handling such localised image interference.

You could concider using a ptz camera, having leakage, flood alert contacts and heat sensors whatever as alarm sensors that way you can program the camera to tour, and and auto switch if a preset setting if one activates, this can cause the PTX unit to turn and focus exactelly where you need it.

Alan