Engine rewire, wiring diagram ?

[xeitosaphil]

I'd expect to see more current if the batteries are only 83% charged and the alternator is delivering 14.6v. Alternators can't "reduce charge" - they simply work at a set voltage, the charge rate is governed by the battery's ability to accept charge at that voltage.

You've spent a lot of time fiddling with what must be the cheapest ammeter on the market. Do you really not believe that the ammeter might simply be junk?

Hi Pvb,

" You've spent a lot of time fiddling with what must be the cheapest ammeter on the market. Do you really not believe that the ammeter might simply be junk? "

I couldn't agree with you more, and I’m getting a little exasperated by it all now. I expect that the ammeter is junk just like you said. Not sure if it’s worth sending it back and demand a replacement as the cost could be as much as the purchase, and more important than that is the time in doing so. I need to get sorted out now putting everything back together for the coming season.

Have you any suggestions for a reasonable priced alternative stand alone Digital Ammeter for under £100 that is not part of a combined battery monitoring system, if so would appreciate a link.

 

[xeitosaphil]

If the volts , presumably measured at the house battery, are 14.6 I would expect to see a higher charging current than 0.4 amps .

Two possible things to look at/try/check

Check both readings with a known good multimeter.

Try partly discharging the battery and then see what happens. It'll take a while to make a sizeable dent in the SOC but worth trying I think

Thanks Vic, the 14.6 what is showing on the smt gauge, is the same at the battery terminals with my multi meter; unfortunately I can’t measure what the output is at the alternator.
Will have to see if I can find someone with a clamp meter,or buy one. I suppose it could be a problem with the alternator but really don't want to think along those lines.

Need to check the output of the alternator somehow, just for piece of mind.

Running the battery down could take hours, as everything is set up to save power. I could use the fridge but it is still in the final stages of being installed!

In an effort to try and use what I have already installed, I will have a go and report back with any results

 

[pvb]

Have you any suggestions for a reasonable priced alternative stand alone Digital Ammeter for under £100 that is not part of a combined battery monitoring system, if so would appreciate a link.

I wouldn't fit an ammeter, as the information it gives you is of marginal usefulness. For £90, you can get a Nasa BM-1 battery monitor. This has an ammeter function, but it also shows you the amp-hours count. I appreciate it duplicates some of the functions of your Smartgauge, but it's of far more practical use than a straight ammeter.

Normally, I wouldn't suggest buying Nasa stuff, but the BM-1 seems to be one product which seems to work well for most people.

 

[VicS]

Thanks Vic, the 14.6 what is showing on the smt gauge, is the same at the battery terminals with my multi meter; unfortunately I can’t measure what the output is at the alternator.
Will have to see if I can find someone with a clamp meter,or buy one. I suppose it could be a problem with the alternator but really don't want to think along those lines.

Need to check the output of the alternator somehow, just for piece of mind.

Running the battery down could take hours, as everything is set up to save power. I could use the fridge but it is still in the final stages of being installed!

In an effort to try and use what I have already installed, I will have a go and report back with any results

Ok the volts being delivered to the battery are confirmed ... no need to worry about checking at the alternator.

DC clamp meter, as in your other thread, should enable you to confirm the current reading on you ammeter and the total alternator output current.

Maybe measuring 1 or 2 amps accurately with your 400amp meter is a bit of an ask I guess the shunt only produces 50mV at 400 amps so you are looking to measure only 0.5 mV at 4 amps.

Id run the battery down a bit by clipping a reasonable sized bulb to it for a few hours ( I have an old head light bulb with one good filament on a long lead... often useful for checking things and as a 12 volt "lead light") I take it all your nav lights and cabin lights are LED