Boo2
Well-Known Member
+1. Wish to goodness I'd known about this service before I had my engine replaced...
Boo2
Engine replacement cost
- Thread starter 12 Year Plan B-)
- Start date
Boo2
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Presumably TS marine only do that price if you can get your boat to them.
Bobc
Well-Known Member
Of course.
langstonelayabout
Well-Known Member
Beta will offer you the correct engine bearers ('special feet') and TS will also charge you extra for their crane to remove/replace your engine, plus VAT. I assume that if you are not in the central south coast area TS may also want to charge you transport for their people and equipment to get to site.
Bobc
Well-Known Member
Beta will supply custom bearers for £360+vat. TS Marine charge £960+vat for the bearers, and for craneage and fitting/aligning. They can do this partly because they own the crane at Universal, so don't have to pay the marina for this. I suspect that they would be happy to do this service for any make of engine, but I would expect that you would have to take your boat to Universal so that they can use their own crane.
KREW2
Well-Known Member
I'm in the process of doing exactly this now.
Engine delivered and paid for to our club was £4,860. Including a water proof keyless control panel.
I removed my old engine myself a VP 2002, and lifted the new engine into the cabin with the main halyard, a reefing line, a one ton lifting strop a chain pulley, and the help of three friends.
I'm pleased to say it went like clockwork.
Our local engineer had 2 x 600mm plates made up bolted the to the old bearers, drilled and threaded them and bolted the engine and aligned it all in about 3 hours. haven't had the bill yet but I don't think it will be much more than £250.00.
The rest I have done myself.
New 19mm inlet water scoop plus hose, hose tail and a new 19mm vetus water strainer. Manged to sell the old one so say £120
High rise exhaust elbow and anti syphon system plus 1 meter of new 50mm exhaust hose and 1 meter 25mm exhaust hose £250.
New fuel lines £25.00
Old control cables just needed rerouting.
Extras like silicone jubilee clips I already had but say £50.00
Unfortunately the 3 meters of cable supplied with the control panel was not long enough to route tidily. so I had to buy a 1 meter extension. Not had the bill for that yet.
All done now and the engineer will come in two weeks to check my work and fire her up. I'm sure there will be a cost but hopefully not to much.
Because the rotation is now right handed I needed a new prop. I was going to go for a fixed three blade, but because installation was under budget I decided to go for a Darglow Featherstream, ho hum!
Engine delivered and paid for to our club was £4,860. Including a water proof keyless control panel.
I removed my old engine myself a VP 2002, and lifted the new engine into the cabin with the main halyard, a reefing line, a one ton lifting strop a chain pulley, and the help of three friends.
I'm pleased to say it went like clockwork.
Our local engineer had 2 x 600mm plates made up bolted the to the old bearers, drilled and threaded them and bolted the engine and aligned it all in about 3 hours. haven't had the bill yet but I don't think it will be much more than £250.00.
The rest I have done myself.
New 19mm inlet water scoop plus hose, hose tail and a new 19mm vetus water strainer. Manged to sell the old one so say £120
High rise exhaust elbow and anti syphon system plus 1 meter of new 50mm exhaust hose and 1 meter 25mm exhaust hose £250.
New fuel lines £25.00
Old control cables just needed rerouting.
Extras like silicone jubilee clips I already had but say £50.00
Unfortunately the 3 meters of cable supplied with the control panel was not long enough to route tidily. so I had to buy a 1 meter extension. Not had the bill for that yet.
All done now and the engineer will come in two weeks to check my work and fire her up. I'm sure there will be a cost but hopefully not to much.
Because the rotation is now right handed I needed a new prop. I was going to go for a fixed three blade, but because installation was under budget I decided to go for a Darglow Featherstream, ho hum!
PerformanceSailor
Well-Known Member
One comment about crane fees, and avoiding them.
Doing our swap at the slip we were about to use the main halyard to do the lifting with a second line, riding on a bight on the halyard, led back to the cockpit winches. That let us continuously locate the direction of hoist fore n aft. This worked really well.
One guy below to guide the engine to avoid contact with wood work, and me to run the ST winches on deck. A lewmar 30ST did the lifting -- larger would be better.
Once the engine was resting in the cockpit, we changed the hoist angle by using the main sheet to hold the engine and then swung the boom and engine out over the dock and lowered it onto a cart. Main halyard was attached exactly at the sheet attachment point.
You just need to take it slow and think thru all the hoisting connections and "ways it might go wrong".... !
It helps that our main sheet is attached out near the boom end.
Note that the engine(s) both weighed under 270#, and this is an easy weight for a main sheet tackle on our size boat. Quite awkward to manipulate, but not all that heavy compared to the strength of the tackle involved. (On a windy day the forces on the sheet are probably quite a bit larger)
Doing our swap at the slip we were about to use the main halyard to do the lifting with a second line, riding on a bight on the halyard, led back to the cockpit winches. That let us continuously locate the direction of hoist fore n aft. This worked really well.
One guy below to guide the engine to avoid contact with wood work, and me to run the ST winches on deck. A lewmar 30ST did the lifting -- larger would be better.
Once the engine was resting in the cockpit, we changed the hoist angle by using the main sheet to hold the engine and then swung the boom and engine out over the dock and lowered it onto a cart. Main halyard was attached exactly at the sheet attachment point.
You just need to take it slow and think thru all the hoisting connections and "ways it might go wrong".... !
It helps that our main sheet is attached out near the boom end.
Note that the engine(s) both weighed under 270#, and this is an easy weight for a main sheet tackle on our size boat. Quite awkward to manipulate, but not all that heavy compared to the strength of the tackle involved. (On a windy day the forces on the sheet are probably quite a bit larger)
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Bobc
Well-Known Member
Craning out yourself is perfectly do-able. All depends on:-
1./ The physical size and weight of the engine
2./ How confident you are in the strength of your boom
3./ How confident you are to not damage the boat
One thing to consider though if you're considering doing it with the boat in the water - you will almost certainly have to push the propshaft back, and if you have a dripless seal, this will bugger-up the lip seals.
1./ The physical size and weight of the engine
2./ How confident you are in the strength of your boom
3./ How confident you are to not damage the boat
One thing to consider though if you're considering doing it with the boat in the water - you will almost certainly have to push the propshaft back, and if you have a dripless seal, this will bugger-up the lip seals.
KREW2
Well-Known Member
I used the boom only as a guide, at no time did it take any weight. The 3ft 1 ton lifting strop was looped round the boom and the main halyard attached, and a 1 ton chainblock pulley was hung from it. The a reefing line was attached to the strop to hold it back enough to allow the lift to clear topsides The triangulation also held the strop about 8 inches above the boom
The boom was held out over the side by a long line, guard rails removed and the engine was lifted.
When the engine was high enough the boom was centered in the cockpit.
Easing the reefing point allowed the engine to move towards the companion way, doing this meant the strop was lowering onto the boom, so lifting the halyard 6 inches allowed the reefing point to be released a little more. Rinse and repeat about four times and the engine glided through the companion way like a plane coming into land.
We then lowered it onto the box frame with the chain block. The only pressure on the boom was compression from the strop
The boom was held out over the side by a long line, guard rails removed and the engine was lifted.
When the engine was high enough the boom was centered in the cockpit.
Easing the reefing point allowed the engine to move towards the companion way, doing this meant the strop was lowering onto the boom, so lifting the halyard 6 inches allowed the reefing point to be released a little more. Rinse and repeat about four times and the engine glided through the companion way like a plane coming into land.
We then lowered it onto the box frame with the chain block. The only pressure on the boom was compression from the strop
Baggywrinkle
Well-Known Member
Drop in replacement.
Old Volvo Penta 2030C replaced with a D1-30 with the same footprint - my boat is 36ft Bavaria. Bit different from yours but the info might be useful.
Engine was bought from a local diesel engine supplier who happened to have a VP franchise and was the cheapest D1-30 I could find in Europe. €9250 inc. VAT for everything, Engine, Saildrive, Loom, Panel, Prop, Engine mounts and all consumables required for fitting.
Boat was out of the water for anti-fouling etc. The marina workshop removed of the old VP 2030C, Loom, Panel, Saildrive etc. cleaned the engine bay and fitted and commisioned the new D1-30 (including VP 5 year warranty on engine and fitting) for €1790
I simply collected the new one from the supplier, drove to Croatia in a van (2 adults can easily lift a 29HP 3 cylinder D1-30), dropped it off at the marina workshop and collected the old engine/saildrive which I then sold complete for €1300 to a guy in Denmark using all the transport packing from the D1-30.
Total cost €9740 ... so €10K is almost spot on for me too. At the time it was around €1,17 to the pound so around £8,300.
Fitting it myself would have saved maybe €1500 by the time I'd bought all the necessary consumables etc. ... I reckon it would have taken me 2 days so €1500 to avoid skinned knuckles, oily hands and 16 hours bu**ering about in the bilges of my boat was worth it (for me).
I could also have got more for the old engine by breaking it for spares (maybe another €700) but I really couldn't be bothered to dismantle and clean all the parts and have them hanging around in my garage until I had sold them.
So the two extremes for me were ......
DIY + break old engine for spares: €7K
Pay someone else to do the dirty work: €10K
A considerable saving is therefore possible IMHO taking a DIY approach.
Old Volvo Penta 2030C replaced with a D1-30 with the same footprint - my boat is 36ft Bavaria. Bit different from yours but the info might be useful.
Engine was bought from a local diesel engine supplier who happened to have a VP franchise and was the cheapest D1-30 I could find in Europe. €9250 inc. VAT for everything, Engine, Saildrive, Loom, Panel, Prop, Engine mounts and all consumables required for fitting.
Boat was out of the water for anti-fouling etc. The marina workshop removed of the old VP 2030C, Loom, Panel, Saildrive etc. cleaned the engine bay and fitted and commisioned the new D1-30 (including VP 5 year warranty on engine and fitting) for €1790
I simply collected the new one from the supplier, drove to Croatia in a van (2 adults can easily lift a 29HP 3 cylinder D1-30), dropped it off at the marina workshop and collected the old engine/saildrive which I then sold complete for €1300 to a guy in Denmark using all the transport packing from the D1-30.
Total cost €9740 ... so €10K is almost spot on for me too. At the time it was around €1,17 to the pound so around £8,300.
Fitting it myself would have saved maybe €1500 by the time I'd bought all the necessary consumables etc. ... I reckon it would have taken me 2 days so €1500 to avoid skinned knuckles, oily hands and 16 hours bu**ering about in the bilges of my boat was worth it (for me).
I could also have got more for the old engine by breaking it for spares (maybe another €700) but I really couldn't be bothered to dismantle and clean all the parts and have them hanging around in my garage until I had sold them.
So the two extremes for me were ......
DIY + break old engine for spares: €7K
Pay someone else to do the dirty work: €10K
A considerable saving is therefore possible IMHO taking a DIY approach.
miha90
Active Member
Recently changed my old Yanmar YSB for a Beta 14. Paid around £4.5K for the engine and all the extras I needed. Went for the optional Volvo crossover high-rise exhaust, new shaft coupling and shallow sump option from Beta.
If you are interested in these kind things and have a week to spare you could do the whole thing yourself. All the information is online and the guys at Beta are super helpful. For me it was a win-win. I saved some money and gained some extra knowledge about my boat.
If you are interested in these kind things and have a week to spare you could do the whole thing yourself. All the information is online and the guys at Beta are super helpful. For me it was a win-win. I saved some money and gained some extra knowledge about my boat.
claymore
Well-Known Member
You don't say how much of the work you can or will do yourself.
If you have your old engine taken out and replaced with a Beta 35 - all work done by a boatyard, you will need a budget of £10k.
This would include bearers, new fuel lines, wiring loom - which comes wth the engine but the old one will need removing, sea trials, first service and manufacturers recommended adjustments to the cylinder head. In addition, that ought to cover work needed on the drive train, which you allude to.
The benefit of having it done is that the work will carry a guarantee.
You will obviously get something for your old engine on ebay but its best not to be too optimistic!
If you have your old engine taken out and replaced with a Beta 35 - all work done by a boatyard, you will need a budget of £10k.
This would include bearers, new fuel lines, wiring loom - which comes wth the engine but the old one will need removing, sea trials, first service and manufacturers recommended adjustments to the cylinder head. In addition, that ought to cover work needed on the drive train, which you allude to.
The benefit of having it done is that the work will carry a guarantee.
You will obviously get something for your old engine on ebay but its best not to be too optimistic!