vas
Well-Known Member
well done Alf!
sounds good, hope you have an uneventful summer
V.
sounds good, hope you have an uneventful summer
V.
Engine re-build - Detroit - Desicion made - Start 03 Nov 2011
- Thread starter Divemaster1
- Start date
BartW
Well-Known Member
well done Alf,
can perfectly imagine what a big relief for the good result
after so much hard work,
and you prooved that with some patience, carefull and hard work,
YOU can manage a serious and thorrow rebuild on DD's
congratulations !
can perfectly imagine what a big relief for the good result
after so much hard work,
and you prooved that with some patience, carefull and hard work,
YOU can manage a serious and thorrow rebuild on DD's
congratulations !
Latestarter1
Well-Known Member
Apologies Alf,
Now you know why I stay away from DD as well as Green engines. Only inline DD I have ever come across was a 4-53 in a Dutch barge I repowered. 4-53 was a sweet little motor.
Interesting you refer to 6CTA, rarely crops up, plenty in commercial use and replaced CAT 3208 in Flemings, a real no nonsense workhorse.
Good luck
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Need to clean up, and work a bit on replacing carpets etc. (getting old anyway).
However, I thought I should post something about the cost of the re-build. Bearing in mind it was made more expensive than absolutely required as I did choose to replace full liner and piston. (Intent is to replace piston crown and rings on old piston and keep this & liner as cheap and readily available spare parts).
Anyway:
1x Cylinder repair kit (Piston, rings, liner, clamshell bearings, cylinder head guide stud and full set of seals for an engine re-build) £480
Replaced bolts, nuts etc. £10
2x Replaced coolant pipes (pictured and one more 1" x 2 foot) £60
New Oil £60
Coolant £50
New Torque wrench £35
Total cost £695 inclusive of VAT
I could have saved about £250, by going for piston crown & rings only, but now I have available spares in case something happens again...
Edit: cylinder head guide stud added to the re-build kit (was included in the cost)
However, I thought I should post something about the cost of the re-build. Bearing in mind it was made more expensive than absolutely required as I did choose to replace full liner and piston. (Intent is to replace piston crown and rings on old piston and keep this & liner as cheap and readily available spare parts).
Anyway:
1x Cylinder repair kit (Piston, rings, liner, clamshell bearings, cylinder head guide stud and full set of seals for an engine re-build) £480
Replaced bolts, nuts etc. £10
2x Replaced coolant pipes (pictured and one more 1" x 2 foot) £60
New Oil £60
Coolant £50
New Torque wrench £35
Total cost £695 inclusive of VAT
I could have saved about £250, by going for piston crown & rings only, but now I have available spares in case something happens again...
Edit: cylinder head guide stud added to the re-build kit (was included in the cost)
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Seahope
Well-Known Member
Wow! Next time I need two engines rebuilt I know who to go to
This isn't much more than just one piston replacement for my engines 
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
As a fellow consultant I feel it fair to ask if you're willing to pay my current day rate on top of the parts ?Wow! Next time I need two engines rebuilt I know who to go to
Seahope
Well-Known Member
As a fellow consultant I feel it fair to ask if you're willing to pay my current day rate on top of the parts ?
Unfortunately, I am still PAYE so I couldn't afford that as the Government almost take as much money from my earnings as I take home 
In only another year or so I expect to go back to contracting and switching to keeping most of my income and of course no longer having to work ridiculous hours just to keep my job.
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Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
More for Syd
Looks like Syd is heading for a re-tune, so will continue with some pictures and illustrations:
1) remove bits that cover rocker cover, then remove this.... (PM sent on tools needed)
Looks like Syd is heading for a re-tune, so will continue with some pictures and illustrations:
1) remove bits that cover rocker cover, then remove this.... (PM sent on tools needed)
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Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Then remove the idle screw cover from governor (as discribed in PM ....oil in here so be prepared and not surprised when leaking).
And undo the locking nut (11mm) whilst holding the bolt steady with an allen key (cannot recall the size) ...
Back off idle screw a couple of mm...
....
Then loosen the “buffer screw” ... the one with a locking bolt next to the oil supply line on this picture, and back off a couple of mm.. (you won’t have to open the cover)
Disconnect the cables (including stop solenoid) and lock the levers to “no fuel” ... throttle should do this by default, but “no fuel” on stop leaver may have to be taped up or tied back with a cable...
The “Stop” lever is the one to the far right in this picture... and needs to be lifted up...
And undo the locking nut (11mm) whilst holding the bolt steady with an allen key (cannot recall the size) ...
Back off idle screw a couple of mm...
....
Then loosen the “buffer screw” ... the one with a locking bolt next to the oil supply line on this picture, and back off a couple of mm.. (you won’t have to open the cover)
Disconnect the cables (including stop solenoid) and lock the levers to “no fuel” ... throttle should do this by default, but “no fuel” on stop leaver may have to be taped up or tied back with a cable...
The “Stop” lever is the one to the far right in this picture... and needs to be lifted up...
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Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
The valve clearances is set by rotating the engine (with said power bar and socket) until injector rocker (middle one) is fully depressed, and the two outer ones (valves) are in the top position...
The insert a feeler gauge (0.016") into gap indicated in the first ot these pictures....
The feeler shold get in, but with resistance..... if it is loose, or too tight, you need to adjust the clearance.... by loosening the lock nut at the top of the valve rocker lifting mechanism (top arrow in second picture) and adjust the square on the lifter (lower arrow in second picture) with a 7mm spanner...
Adjustmets are exected to take place on cold engine.... and assuming you have a 4 exhaust valve engine... but looking at your model number, I am 99% certain that you have...
Let me know if you need anythign else....
The insert a feeler gauge (0.016") into gap indicated in the first ot these pictures....
The feeler shold get in, but with resistance..... if it is loose, or too tight, you need to adjust the clearance.... by loosening the lock nut at the top of the valve rocker lifting mechanism (top arrow in second picture) and adjust the square on the lifter (lower arrow in second picture) with a 7mm spanner...
Adjustmets are exected to take place on cold engine.... and assuming you have a 4 exhaust valve engine... but looking at your model number, I am 99% certain that you have...
Let me know if you need anythign else....
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stuhaynes
Well-Known Member
Superb thread and job well done. I didn't interrupt while you were doing the work but enjoyed reading the various posts. Good pictures too.
Given me the encouragement to change the head gasket on our old Coventry CDB (1951). It's going to be a nightmare to do but hopefully not as uncomfortable as your job! Hope you have a good season.
Given me the encouragement to change the head gasket on our old Coventry CDB (1951). It's going to be a nightmare to do but hopefully not as uncomfortable as your job! Hope you have a good season.
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Superb thread and job well done. I didn't interrupt while you were doing the work but enjoyed reading the various posts. Good pictures too.
Given me the encouragement to change the head gasket on our old Coventry CDB (1951). It's going to be a nightmare to do but hopefully not as uncomfortable as your job! Hope you have a good season.
Thanks .... much apprecated !!!
Was the original intention to share ....but if it has encouraged people to learn more about their own boats and engines, that is great !!
I do these things myself as in this way I get to know the engines better and if anything happens when at sea, I can troubleshoot with more confidence and take more informed corrective actions in the interest of safety and comfort for all onboard.. (not that I plan to replace pistons at sea of course ...
).... and please post pictures of your work during or after the job is complete...
