Engine Raw Water syphon

The physics of this are not difficult to understand. In the majority of cases yacht engines are mounted so that the heat exchanger is above the waterline. This is usually the high point of the engine and when you open the seacock water will not rise to this level unless it is pumped. On the exhaust side the water is usually injected into the exhaust directly from the heat exchanger. The exhaust usually has a wet silencer or waterlock on the exhaust.
OK. When the engine is started it pumps water through the heat exchanger and into the exhaust. Fine. But when a hot engine stops there is a possibility of drawing water up the exhaust pipe from the silencer and up the cooling water inlet pipe which can flood the engine so that next time you start it you bend a conrod because the water has got into the valve chamber via the exhaust manifold. To stop this happening you have to let air in AT THE TOP OF THE SYSTEM by some means. If you have a pipe it only needs to be capable of letting air in and technically it doesn't mind where it gets it from. if you have a valve, theoretically you only need it open to atmosphere inside the boat. If you don't have a valve the pipe will always let some water out so you need to ensure it goes overboard and that is the only reason you need to have a skin fitting. It needs to be well above the WL so that on any tack you draw air not water when the engine is not running. How long the pipe is and if or not it has to be routed down for part of its travel is immaterial. There will be very little water in this pipe as it is so small Obviously the most direct route is best. Now when the engine stops the water in the pipe will join that in the system and the water level will quickly revert to the WL level outside the hull. Thats all there is to it.
The only thing to remember is that the valve or tee piece should be mounted higher than the rest of the system as the objective is to let air in at the top. Where it is in relation to the WL outside the boat is immaterial but where it is in relation to the water in the engine is important.
To be entirely clear then if you have a tee piece it should be mounted as high up on the engine as possible. The other end can be routed by any means to a skin fitting anywhere above the WL outside the boat but as high as possible. Usually somewhere just above or to the side of the exhaust outlet is a good place. If you do have an engine mounted with the heat exchanger below the WL the whole setup gets more complex because you can flood the engine by just opening a seacock. Forget it. I am pretty sure you won't have, but just to make sure no one screws up, what I have said only applies to engines where the manifold and valve gear is mounted above the WL
Hope this helps.
 
Re: Engine Raw Water syphon: VETUS VALVE WARING!!!!!

Water Shooting...

Yeah, the real exhaust is near the back of the boat, shoots out exhaust gases and water.

The bleed valve leads directly athwardship, higher on the waterline, so I guess it looks funny, but I didn't want much length in that line because I don't want it to be full of water and have to siphon the water back before the air hits.

Lots of different ways to configure things.

I think if you have enough column pressure, the Vetus valve with the spring will work, and the manual says, if it doesn't take out the whole valve. I found taking out just the spring worked for me.

Paul
 
Re: Engine Raw Water syphon: VETUS VALVE WARING!!!!!

My breather was mounted on a bulkhead 6 inches above the highest point in the exhaust system/cooling system. In fact, above anything attached to the engine, except the control panel.

With the strong spring keeping the valve closed, the breather just didn't work. Nigel's statement is only correct for unobstructed, valve-less breathers.
 
Hi Mike,

Many thanks for the comprehensive reply.

Out of interest here is the diagram Beta have in their docs (which is similar to Nigel Calders) - which gives the impression that they are deliberatly locating the T itself 30+cm above water level - but I guess maybe its just the way they draw the thing

install.jpg
 
Yes well I don't have a problem with this diagram in theory but the 300mm is entirely arbitory. If instead of taking the tapping for the tee piece at the front end of the heat exchanger, they had taken it from the back it would have been better being the highest point and I would take the exit point to a position above the exhaust as it may well be underwater where they have shown it in a following sea, but basically there is nothing wrong with it as shown.
 
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