Engine hoses - emergency repairs

All good replies-

Also, remember most bursts happen where the pipes are terminated. There is usually a little slack in the pipe run.

If you have not taken the earlier advice above when you get your leak, you may be able to trim the pipe end back to the leak and reattach. (unless you already did that last year...:rolleyes:)
 
What you need is non-adhesive, self-fusing silicone compression tape. You stretch it (typically two to three times its length) as you wrap and it fuses to itself. The resultant joint is capable of withstanding 260C and insulating to 7000 volts per wrap. It's held in place by compression created as you wrap. It's not effected by most fluids within pipes on a boat or car, but you should wipe the pipe before applying.

We sell it as Bandit Tape, but it's available under other names.

Thats the one. Seems to manage diesel ok, at least it does on my boat.
 
Haven't tried the B&Q stuff, but I have some rolls from Screwfix and those are a very poor imitation. The original (?) rescue tape is very impressive
 
All good replies-

Also, remember most bursts happen where the pipes are terminated. There is usually a little slack in the pipe run.

If you have not taken the earlier advice above when you get your leak, you may be able to trim the pipe end back to the leak and reattach. (unless you already did that last year...:rolleyes:)

I think my leak (post #9) happened because a previous owner had done just that - there was no slack at all so the pipe was stretched tightly across what should have been a gentle curve, and the internal tube where it terminated was trying to force its way through the wall of the flexible pipe.
 
'Rescue Tape' is essential in my opinion. It is silicone based, can withstand temps of 350F and can seal fluid leaks under pressure. The key is to STRETCH it while you put it on.
 
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