Engine help YSE YSB 8

12 Year Plan B-)

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Tried to Winterise the old Yanmar YSB8 on my Jaguar 27 this weekend. Met with problems at every turn, as follows:
1/ thought I would disconnect raw water intake pipe from seacock so I could run antifreeze through. I could not get the pipe off the seacock. Annoying in a reassuring way...
2/ As I could no get antifreeze in, I thought at least I could get the water out of the engine by opening the drain cock under the head. This was seized.
3/ As I couldn't get the antifreeze in or the water out, I ran the engine briefly to try and pump it out. A little did come out of the exhaust.
4/ On to changing the oil. Tried to extract the old oil with a cheap I plastic suction pump. Got about half a cupful out; I know there is more in there! How do I remove it?

Can anybody out there help...especially on matter of seized coolant drain tap and oil extraction? Do I also use an engine flush before renewing oil?

Many thanks in anticipation of useful replies...
 
Tough little engines.... IF NOISY!!!;)

The bronze drain tap body is square so a good open end spanner should let you remove it for draining and sorting the tap on the bench.

Pdf manuals available free. No link, I'm on my tablet

N
 
Hi,

I can only suggest pouring very hot water onto the intake pipe from the seacock (I assume you can get to it easily), and you should be able to grip and twist the pipe once softened. I doubt you will extract much, if any, water from the engine if you can't drain it.

As for the oil, the Pela oil extrator is the way to go. This for example only:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pela-6000...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item4ae0ca7ca1

If you are a member of a club, etc, someone is bound to have one you can borrow. Useful for other jobs around the boat too.
 
If you have a mains supply a heat gun could solve 2 problems careful use will soften pipe and also could heat the sump enough to thin the oil ,you just have to take care with any paintwork .
 
Is the OPs boat in or out of the water.
At least the barbs on the inlet spigot work
boat ashore make up a bucket with a 1/2" plastic spigot in the bottom, affix a hose suspend bucket under the exhaust outlet, ram other end of 1/2" pipe up the engine inlet. fill bucket with water,run engine. once warm stop engine & empty bucket replace 50/50 water a/f into bucket & run the engine to circulate the mixture.
I has a YSE 12 but its too long ago to remember much about drain-off, i always used a pump to extract the oil
 
Thanks to all for excellent advice. Have invested in a Sealey extraction pump - £8 or so on eBay. I hope you are right (Nick Robinson) in what you say...I should be most perturbed if I took a spanner to the drain tap 'boss' and sheared off part of the casting! I have had a brainwave of my own: if I cannot free the raw water inlet pipe from the seacock, I might be able to remove it at the pump end and buy a bit of similar gauge piping to dip in my bucket of antifreeze mix. I will get some positive pressure that way...better than the impeller having to suck up the mix from below the usual waterline. Not that the engine is going to overheat in a minute or two anyway...

As for warming the oil in the sump to aid extraction: might a fan heater do the job in an hour or so?

And, has anyone any thoughts regarding an engine flush? Am I being a bit anal about getting the old stuff out?
 
Thanks to all for excellent advice. Have invested in a Sealey extraction pump - £8 or so on eBay. I hope you are right (Nick Robinson) in what you say...I should be most perturbed if I took a spanner to the drain tap 'boss' and sheared off part of the casting! I have had a brainwave of my own: if I cannot free the raw water inlet pipe from the seacock, I might be able to remove it at the pump end and buy a bit of similar gauge piping to dip in my bucket of antifreeze mix. I will get some positive pressure that way...better than the impeller having to suck up the mix from below the usual waterline. Not that the engine is going to overheat in a minute or two anyway...

As for warming the oil in the sump to aid extraction: might a fan heater do the job in an hour or so?

And, has anyone any thoughts regarding an engine flush? Am I being a bit anal about getting the old stuff out?
Sit back & have a beer.


why do you need to remove the intake hose. did you read #5
 
[COLOR=#ff0000 said:
I hope you are right (Nick Robinson) in what you say...I should be most perturbed if I took a spanner to the drain tap 'boss' and sheared off part of the casting![/COLOR]

No warranty implied!:rolleyes: N

I have had a brainwave of my own: if I cannot free the raw water inlet pipe from the seacock, I might be able to remove it at the pump end and buy a bit of similar gauge piping to dip in my bucket of antifreeze mix.

I think I'd have cut it off close and run a sharp knife down the boss by now... A new bit of pipe may be overdue.. N
 
Thanks to all for excellent advice. Have invested in a Sealey extraction pump - £8 or so on eBay. I hope you are right (Nick Robinson) in what you say...I should be most perturbed if I took a spanner to the drain tap 'boss' and sheared off part of the casting!...
I've had a YSE8 & 2 YSB8's:

1 There is a crankcase breather on the port side, you might get a bit more oil out of there if you push the extraction pipe in there too.

2 The drain tap under the cylinder is brass with a square profile. I used to take mine out to free it up often - the tap is a taper fit with a nut on the end which you can loosen off and tap out to clean. You may also need to push a bit of wire up through the hole to loosen scale etc before you get any water running out of the cooling channels
 
I have heard of people leaving a lighted night light candle under the sump to warm the engine oil. It can be a long job if the oil is cold.
 
There is a pipe on the crankcase port side, that looks like a breather. Your rubber tube from the oil extractor pump needs to fit over the end of this, not inside the pipe. Once your tube is attached you can then pump out all of the oil in the cranckase oil,
 
Getting back to the water problem, there is a large plug in the top of the engine where the engine anode can be replaced,remove that and pour in the anti freeze mixture.and left to winter, plug in or out, dosen't matter.
 
R U sure, my YSE 12 never had an anode

There should have been, next to the water inlet:

254yomg.jpg
 

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