Engine behaving oddly - any ideas?

Balbas

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Its an old Vetus M4.14 33hp. The boat's not been used for 2 years but the engine has been recently serviced. We bought her and put her in the water on Thursday. She was initially very reluctant to start - diagnosed to knackered batteries and finally got it to fire up. And it ran really nicely, no funny noises, or smoke, but perhaps a bit of vibration at low rpm, which felt as though the idle was set a bit low.

Wasn't charging, but got that sorted pretty quickly by Sea Start, so all was then good.

I gave it a workout yesterday - was out in some pretty honking weather, and motor sailing to get into a safe harbour asap. I was giving it the beans frankly. I understand that its rated to 33bhp at 3,600rpm (which seems ludicrously high for a marine diesel to me, but maybe I'm just used to old nails), so I had the revs cranked up to 3,300 (working on the idea that running it at 90% rpm should be ok). An hour or so later the overheating alarm came on. She still had coolant and was still pumping well, so I eased the revs down to 2,200 and a minute or so later the alarm self cancelled. Revs were increased to 2,500 for the next 45 minutes or so into harbour. Yes there's an argument which says I should have shut down the engine the minute the overheat alarm came on, but given the weather I made the decision I would rather keep best speed for as long as possible, so chose to throttle back to see if the temp would drop.

Once in harbour the revs were dropped to idle so that we could check we had forward and reverse gear selection and the motor died and refused to re-start, which I later traced to one of the kids knocking the battery switch to one of the duff batteries (having only replaced the engine battery thus far). I later got her going again on the (good) engine battery.

So where should I begin? I will find out the idle speed and adjust accordingly - that could well cure the very low speed vibration and also perhaps have prevented the motor cutting out when selecting idle revs. Its also possible that the stern gland is too tight - the stuffing box isn't dripping at all, so I guess it's possible that the engine was stopped by a stiff (hot/seizing) stern gland whilst still in gear but at low rpm. Next trip I will take an infra red thermometer with me to measure the stuffing box temperature.

But the overheating at sustained high RPM worries me. Initially, combined with the stopped engine at low rpm and then not re-starting, I suspected HGF, but there is no mayonnaise in the oil, no oil in the coolant and the coolant expansion tank wasn't over pressuring either. And that the coolant alarm re-set when revs were reduced also suggests this is not the case. So where do I start with this? I suppose the following are worth doing:-



  • Dropping the coolant and oil and checking thoroughly for cross contamination
    Removing the glow plugs and compression testing the engine
    Confirming that the temperature sensor is correctly sited and operating correctly


Is there anything else I should be looking at?
 
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Inlet strainer ok? Heat exchanger needing cleaned? Overheating alarm faulty?

This ^^ plus possibly
impeller
exhaust elbow
any other restrictions to salt water flow

It might be worth measuring the salt water flow at high rpm.
 
The idle is probably 750-800rpm. There is no problem running at 3600 - indeed is good to do it from time to time. Cruising should be somewhere around 2500 if it is properly propped.

the overheating has two likely causes. First is poor raw water flow either because of restrictions in the pipework, air getting in, or worn pump impeller. In the fresh water system you could have sediment in the heat exchanger - or even bits of broken impeller!, or sediment in the water passages in the block.

So dismantling the raw water system and replacing the impeller, then checking the tube stack in the heat exchanger and cleaning if necessary, draining the block and replacing the coolant.
 
The idle is probably 750-800rpm. There is no problem running at 3600 - indeed is good to do it from time to time. Cruising should be somewhere around 2500 if it is properly propped.

the overheating has two likely causes. First is poor raw water flow either because of restrictions in the pipework, air getting in, or worn pump impeller. In the fresh water system you could have sediment in the heat exchanger - or even bits of broken impeller!, or sediment in the water passages in the block.

So dismantling the raw water system and replacing the impeller, then checking the tube stack in the heat exchanger and cleaning if necessary, draining the block and replacing the coolant.

+1 for above.

impeller gets my vote was it replaced on recommission?
 
Thanks all,

Inlet strainer ok? Heat exchanger needing cleaned? Overheating alarm faulty?
Inlet strainer was cleaned again after antifouling. Heat exchanger - don't know but good call. And I will test the elements of the alarm system.
This ^^ plus possibly
impeller
exhaust elbow
any other restrictions to salt water flow

It might be worth measuring the salt water flow at high rpm.
Impeller was new on recommission, but I have replacements so I'll pop the cover off and have another look.
What am I looking for in the exhaust elbow? I'm familiar with automotive diesels and I've a working knowledge of marine units, but as to the specifics... I don't think that this was covered on my RYA diesel engine course... And how do I measure the raw water flow at high RPM?
The idle is probably 750-800rpm. There is no problem running at 3600 - indeed is good to do it from time to time. Cruising should be somewhere around 2500 if it is properly propped.

the overheating has two likely causes. First is poor raw water flow either because of restrictions in the pipework, air getting in, or worn pump impeller. In the fresh water system you could have sediment in the heat exchanger - or even bits of broken impeller!, or sediment in the water passages in the block.

So dismantling the raw water system and replacing the impeller, then checking the tube stack in the heat exchanger and cleaning if necessary, draining the block and replacing the coolant.
Thanks for that. I'll check the idle speed as best I can - assuming that the rpm gauge is accurate of course... And I've always worked on the assumption that diesels - naturally running rich rather than stochiometric - need a darned good thrashing every once in a while to ensure no carbon builds up in the exhaust components, so its good to know that she should be ok to run at 3600.

Thanks also to those who have PMd me.

+1 for above.

impeller gets my vote was it replaced on recommission?
 
My MD7A tended to overheat if pushed too hard. Seemed to be pumping OK, but pushed anything over around 75% would build up to overheat. Cause? The cooling water is routed through the reduction gear on the suction side, and the inlet hole to the housing was blocked around 70% . Cleaned out, and has been fine ever since. Had the same reduction around the thermostat housing, particularly the smaller bypass hole which allows waster to flow to the echaust when the engine is still cold and the t/stat closed.
 
Approaching max revs for a long period in an 'untested' engine sounds like an invitation for something to go wrong.
The issue with conditions is understood though I would hesitate to go for a serious trip in an untried 'new to me' old boat!
There are many possible basic things or combination of things that would cause the overheating most of which others have pointed to.
Perhaps tackle the easy ones first?
 
Approaching max revs for a long period in an 'untested' engine sounds like an invitation for something to go wrong.
The issue with conditions is understood though I would hesitate to go for a serious trip in an untried 'new to me' old boat!
There are many possible basic things or combination of things that would cause the overheating most of which others have pointed to.
I'll hold my hands up and say 'Yeah, I made a bad call'. Having realised that I'd got things a bit wrong I was more interested in getting home safely than preserving an engine.

I've already beaten myself up pretty badly about the chain of events that led me to be giving the whip to the untested donkey. Rest assured I won't be repeating the experience.
 
If you have good saltwater flow then your problem is fresh water flow. A couple of treatments with radflush should help but the fresh water pump may also be not at it's best. Once the overheating is dealt with I would suggest a decent say 6 hours run at 75% power, this can make performance a lot better.
 
Thanks all,


Inlet strainer was cleaned again after antifouling. Heat exchanger - don't know but good call. And I will test the elements of the alarm system.

Impeller was new on recommission, but I have replacements so I'll pop the cover off and have another look.
What am I looking for in the exhaust elbow? I'm familiar with automotive diesels and I've a working knowledge of marine units, but as to the specifics... I don't think that this was covered on my RYA diesel engine course... And how do I measure the raw water flow at high RPM?
Thanks for that. I'll check the idle speed as best I can - assuming that the rpm gauge is accurate of course... And I've always worked on the assumption that diesels - naturally running rich rather than stochiometric - need a darned good thrashing every once in a while to ensure no carbon builds up in the exhaust components, so its good to know that she should be ok to run at 3600.

Thanks also to those who have PMd me.

You are looking for enough seawater flowing through to take the heat away.
You can measure the flow well enough with a big bucket catching the exhaust.
Measure it at say 1000 rpm and max revs, say 3500. Do you get 3.5 times the flow at max revs? If not the flow is restricted.
Either get the flow rate spec fro ma manual, or guesstimate what is required.
It's a 30hp motor? that's about 20kW. Diesel is say 33% efficient, so there's 40kW of heat to lose
Roughly heat capacity of sea water, times temperature rise times flow rate gives you the heat it can remove.

Diesels don't run rich, they run with xs air until overloaded.

If the cooling system is all good, and you have other running problems, then maybe the injectors need servicing, timing needs checking, compression etc.
But on the whole, most people need an engine that starts and runs, it does not matter if the power has dropped off a bit from a new engine, so long as it does the job.
 
Has the boat been in the water for a long time? If so, another possible cause of overheating at high revs is if the prop is covered with eg tubeworm casts. I have seem this problem a couple of times - a rough prop uses more power to achieve the same revs as a clean prop. So to achieve the high revs, more fuel is called for by the engine governor, more heat is then released in the engine, which may lead to overheating.

If that is the cause, you might see that the exhaust is sootier than "normal".

A friend spent a long time cleaning the heat exchanger, changing impeller, etc to find the actual cause was tubeworm casts on the prop.
 
I'd be delighted if my Yanmar 3YM would run heavily loaded for an hour at 90% revs without sounding the overheating alarm: it's intermittently overheated from new, despite a larger heat exchanger being fitted under warranty, which changed it from "....always after 10 minutes above about 3000 rpm" to "....only occasionally after 10-20 minutes". Bags of water pump through. In an ideal world I'd change the setup (inlet/filter/piping etc) to get even more water flow, but the last 300-400rpm really aren't needed - all they do is push the stern down more.

Personally I think carrying on running but at half the revs is the best thing to do if overheating, as long as water is still pumping through. Stopping just lets all the latent heat in the block go into the water in the water passages and possibly bring it above the (already high because of pressure) boiling point.

Loading is a factor, as others have said a dirty prop, a dirty hull and pushing into seas all add load which means more fuel burnt and heat generated for given revs.
 
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