Emergency? a lesson that may help some one day

NO, NOT the kill cord switch, that was attached and checked by me, it was the battery switch (red key) slightly nudged off centre that had stopped all the electrics, see the explanation below in a reply.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>
 
you were well prepared and saved yourself, well done! I would now move that switch, or put a cover over it, if removing the cushions is a normal procedure. Now you know what would have happened if you weren't well prepared.

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blimey happy think you missed the point somewhere.......... kill cord, stop switch, battery master switch, decompression lever, igniton swtich etc.... all same thing really....always check the bleeding obvious before first, now you being an ex soldier and all..."is the safety on?" must ring a bell.

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Yes Chris, see what you mean, but the battery key on first glance looked to be on, not until I started the full check from battery upwards that I found it /forums/images/icons/wink.gif I admit that I perhaps should have found it first time, but with the state of the tide I had to take quick action and get the spare engine out, no panic though, just speedy /forums/images/icons/wink.gif I then went through stage two of a more through check now that we had control again, and I found it. Like I say a lesson to be learnt there, perhaps it could even have been a kill cord not properly fitted on, so the moral of the story as you say is double check the obvious, I have learned that, but also enjoyed the mini emergency and challenge /forums/images/icons/wink.gif makes life a bit more exciting /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>
 
Normally the seat is there, but there was three of us board, and rather than damage the seat by people standing on it to get over the back I keep it safe in the cuddy. I think I will remove the other one next time and keep that one on, but a lesson to me all the same.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>
 
All good points - and well made!

I now have a new (well, new to me) Windy 8800. This is in a league completely different to any boat I have ever owned at 3.3 tonnes and nearly 29' long. At every opportunity I crawl in and over it, to find out how it hangs together - and I'm still not there with it yet.

The boat came with an LPG twin tank installation and it has twin engines and twin of virtually everything and last weekend I set sail with it for the first time cognescent of the fact that I really didn't know how it all worked - and a few (none threatening) things didn't work.

Although I have now had lengthy conversations with its previous owner and with a marina that used to look after it, I still realise that I haven't yet had it serviced and I will be much more at home when my local well-trusted engineer has given it the once over for me.

There's fun in the learning - providing it isn't dangerous!

<hr width=100% size=1>Madoc Yacht Club
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.madocyachtclub.co.uk>http://www.madocyachtclub.co.uk</A>
 
no, the whole engine (Yanmar 1GM10) is negetive. Cheaper I expect. The cable had dropped onto the solenoid housing on top of the starter motor. It has blown a 1/2 in hole in the metal but only seems cosmetic, thank goodness.

As for fusing, I have spoken to a few people and one ex surveyor and everyone said it would be unusual to fuse the starter cable, as the current draw on first spin of the starter could be immense. My other option would be to fix the cable to the starter so if it ever snapped at this point again it would not move, but I worry about the temperature of the engine affecting the cable.

Luckily I fitted my engines and made a point of them being two completely individual set-ups. When I spoke to the guy at one of the major battery management companies he mocked me and said this was a stupid way to set them up, no one does that, shared battery banks are what you want says he. Had I done that, I would not have been able to restart the stbd engine and get home. So I think I will stick with my set up.

Do you know how the guy fitted his 150A fuses into the starter circuit?

<hr width=100% size=1>Julian

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.topcatsail.co.uk/Honda_00.html>Honda Formula 4-Stroke racing</A>
 
Got a point there. We lost the port engine in similar circumsatnces when the kedge got shoved too far under the aft seat and nudged the key. Those keys look 'on' but they are very sensitive. As some may know, I've also wasted a morning stripping a 'defective' starter after one of the kids nudged a throttle just enough to activate the start in gera switch...

My default assumption on boats after 12 years of boating is as follows: if it doesn't work, it probably isn't broken - something's just worked loose or got knocked.

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Thanks for the feedback Julian.

We don't have fuses fitted as I think the last thing I would want to happen is to blow one just when you need the engine in an emergency. I would figure that 150 amp would not provide the security that I would want for that purpose for a 50hp diesel (don't scoff MoBo's, I know it is only little). We have a 150 amp breaker on the anchor windlass motor which is just a modified starting motor (frame is insulated from negative) and it is very easy to throw that breaker and we do so regularly.

I personally believe that for short cable runs on small vessels both the service and start batteries are best left unfused (as ABYC - 60 inches from memory) and that is what we did. Unless one gets a catastrophic short, like you experienced, the fuse will not protect anyway. And, of course, the bigger the fuse the more that is so.

John

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Having once knocked off my main power switch by mistake, fortunately with no ill effects. Subscequent enquiries with Lucas assured me that there is more danger of damage if the switch is switched back on whilst the engine is running. Stopping the engine before switching back on would seem to be okay.

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I must say that I could not see the difference between the red key being turned off, and the kill cord turning it off the engine. I didn't think they would have a kill cord if it damaged the engine, but maybe I am wrong.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>
 
Pete,

I think the problem of turning off the key as opposed to the kill switch is a problem related only to diesels.

A diesel will continue to run if the battery isolators are switched off, thus the current generated by the altenator will have nowhere to go and likely cause problems.

Of course on petrol, the engine will just cut if the battery is disconnected, and as you say, the effect of the kill switch and isolators are the same.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=blue> <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mboat.org>http://www.mboat.org</A></font color=blue>
 
Sorry, I see what you are saying now /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>
 
Re: Useful MoBo solution

is to have a big fridge full of beer. That way, of you do disconnect the battery isolator by accident, the drain of the fridge will protect the alternators. Least ways, that's my argument. In fact, to be extra safe, I have two fridges...

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Re: Anchors - a lesson that may help some one day

Can I tactfully suggest that putting the anchor down when you have a swimer / diver in working in a current is counter productive. Unless there is a question of drifting into danger it is easier, and safer, to let the boat drift as the guy in the water won't have to fight the current.
As has already be said, facing an unknown problem it is good seamanship to anchor at the first appropriate moment rather than the last - you are more likely to resolve the issue when you can apply yourself to it fully!



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Re: Anchors - a lesson that may help some one day

Hi Duncan, thanks for the comment it is appreciated. I did not have the option as I did with the power loss to drift, we were being pushed towards the shore in which case we would have gone aground. I took the decision to drop the anchor, firstly because I wanted time to get him safely aboard, and secondly to try and release the rope. In the end he swam to the boat but decided to work on and free the rope, I attached a safety line to him and he worked on the prop. I had no worries at all as he is a very experienced diver and he is used to working and diving in such conditions. Perhaps I was lucky to have the most qualified junior diver in the world with me /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

I would however confirm that what you say is right. People without the expertise/experience should not attempt such things in a fast flowing current. It would be easy to lose the person in the water or more importantly they could be trapped or crushed if you hit an object.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>
 
The thread that I was referring to is

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.ybw.com/cgi-bin/forums/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=pbo&Number=293197&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post293197>http://www.ybw.com/cgi-bin/forums/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=pbo&Number=293197&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post293197</A>

It's quite an interesting exchange and worth a read

<hr width=100% size=1>Gavin
 
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