Electrical connection anti-corrosion spray

[coopec]

How serious fumes?

I'm planning to wear gloves and goggles, and handle the stuff very carefully. I don't have anything to protect against chemical fumes though.

Pete

"
Effects of Hydrochloric Acid Fumes
By Anna Roberts, eHow Contributor
Hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is a toxic chemical with a variety of household and industrial uses. It is a dangerous liquid that should always be handled with extreme caution and used only when necessary. Inhalation of vapors can cause burns to all body tissues, lung damage and even death in extreme cases. Handling hydrochloric acid properly reduces your risk of inhalation of harmful fumes"

MY COMMENT The fumes from the acid would be quite small so if you soldered in a slight breeze you would have no problem. The rule I use when fiber glassing is that if you can smell it you are breathing it so put on your canister mask (not dust) mask. You only use tiny quantities: a teaspoon? If you are careless enough to get it on your hands you will feel it burning so wash it off in water. Keep the bottle well out of reach of the grand kids. Keep things in perspective though: there are probably other toxic products in your house too - oven cleaner, bleach, drain cleaner, eucalyptus oil

 

[coopec]

wtf didnt you do this rather than the 1st post

Why didn't I do a search on YBW earlier threads? I probably wouldn't have thought to search on "Water and Moisture Protection" it was only when I searched "Conforming Coating" that I found the thread
Sailorman, no point in the lectures. you are wasting your time "You can't teach an old dog new tricks"

 

[nigelmercier]

How serious fumes?

So long as you don't breathe in over the open bottle you will be fine. Dilute it to 10% or lower before use. I had a bottle of this in my "Acid Box" (an old flare container), although firmly closed it bleached all the labels in the box. Now I dilute before storage.

 

[prv]

Dilute it to 10% or lower before use.

Doh! The B&Q brick cleaner is 10% HCl, and marginally cheaper than what I've just bought on eBay. I gave it a miss because someone said it would be too dilute!

Pete

 

[coopec]

Doh! The B&Q brick cleaner is 10% HCl, and marginally cheaper than what I've just bought on eBay. I gave it a miss because someone said it would be too dilute!

Pete

I'm not sure of the point of your post but if you are buying brick cleaner then surely the minimum quantity would be around 1L. If you buy Spirits of Salts you would only need 100ml and I suspect that would last you years.
(I just did a google on brick cleaner and the smallest package was 2.5L)

 

[geem]

Tinned Wire Myth Busted
Well-sealed connections key to wiring durability

The matter of tinned wire being the only type accepted as "marine grade" is rather interesting. Ancor was perhaps the first vendor to the boating market to supply tinned copper wire and label it as "marine grade." It was a brilliant marketing move because now many people think that tinned wire is the only legitimate wire to use on boats.

In fact, many boaters are of the belief that the American Boat and Yacht Council mandates the use of tinned wire in its electrical standards. Well, this whole matter falls into the maritime legend category.

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_6/psadvisory/Tinned-Wire_5632-1.html

Is this guy right?

"I don't dispute your comments that tinned is better, but thousands of beneteaus, jeaneaus etc have been built with untinned wire. In the main European builders don't see the need. Having owned several, some very old , I be not seen any deterioration in the internal wiring. For external wiring I would agree and I beleive most builders use tinned"

My last boat didn't have tinned wire. Did an Atlantic circuit in her and experienced lots of poor electrical connections. We had a few lighting circuits that failed. When we got back home I rewired the whole boat with tinned wire. The copper wire was black six feet up the cable where corrosion had tracked. Most of the copper wire was in this condition.
My latest boat was built in 1980. All the original wiring is high quality tinned. I have been doing lots of wiring mods and all the tinned wire I have removed is in perfect condition. These are things like the old rudder position sensor cable, old heater supply cable. I have actually stripped it out and coiled it for spare as it is too good to skip.
The bear ends of the rudder position sensor cable is in the bilge near the stern and it completely corrosion free after 34 years.

 

[prv]

I'm not sure of the point of your post but if you are buying brick cleaner then surely the minimum quantity would be around 1L. If you buy Spirits of Salts you would only need 100ml and I suspect that would last you years.

Brick acid was £9.98 for 5 litres and I could have picked it up on the way home from work.

Conc HCl was £11.75 for 250ml (smallest I could get) and I have to wait for it to be delivered some time next week. Given the delivery price, it may be coming by courier with the additional hassle that that entails.

If I'd known that the brick acid was actually strong enough, and that the Hcl would need to be diluted anyway, I would have bought the former and not the latter.

Pete

 

[Heckler]

Forty years ago I was Mine Accountant at a mine-site in the North West of Australia. The best part of the job was to inspect the rubbish dump once per month and on one inspection I found a spray can which was used to spray electrical connections to prevent corrosion. (When I sprayed it the content was red)
Two questions:
ONE Would you recommend spraying connections and
TWO If it is a good idea what product would be best?

Years ago i rebuilt a Tiger Cub Sports. It had the dreaded energy transfer ignition, driven by an alternator. The alternator looked terrible! I obtained some RED "rewind varnish type paint" I cleaned the alternator well with peteol, dried it out and put it in the domestic oven, got it nicely hot, and sprayed the red stuff on, in to the oven, then spray again. Repeated several tomes. The damn thing worked and worked good! Any one with knowledge of the energy transfer ignition knows that it was a tw at to get right. I did it and i put it down to the red stuff!
However, I cant remember the name of the stuff!
Stu

 

[coopec]

I just did a google on Tiger Cub Sports and found it's a small motor cycle, That reminded me of a pomme I met at the racing car circuit in about 1960. He was racing around the circuit on his BSA Bantam and each time he entered the "straight" he would lay flat on top of the bike (I suppose to reduce air drag). After finishing his laps he was absolutely elated and, with a grin from ear to ear he told us that it was the first time he had done 100 mph (160km/h) since the War11. He said he put the head on back-to-front and that made the difference but he did not know why.

 

[nigelmercier]

Brick acid was £9.98 for 5 litres and I could have picked it up on the way home from work.

But this will probably have other chemicals in it that you don't want. You did the right thing.

Just remember to buy more next time you cross La Manche, about €1 a litre.

 

[coopec]

about €1 a litre.

Unless I am going blind my keyboard hasn't got a "€" so how do you guys type it?

 

[nimbusgb]

I notice NASA has "Conformal Coating" standards which all electronic suppliers must adhere to. That tells me something about the worth of the procedure. (Of course there will be "experts" posting on this thread who reckon they know better)

Lots of rain and salt spray in space!

 

[nimbusgb]

Unless I am going blind my keyboard hasn't got a "€" so how do you guys type it?

Depends on how you keyboard is encoded but ( on windows ) try turn on the numeric keypad, hold down the alt key and enter 0128 on the numeric keypad. On some setups its the alt key and the $ key. On ios on an ipad you can press and hold the currency key and a few options will pop up.

 

[Tintin]

Depends on how you keyboard is encoded but ( on windows ) try turn on the numeric keypad, hold down the alt key and enter 0128 on the numeric keypad. On some setups its the alt key and the $ key. On ios on an ipad you can press and hold the currency key and a few options will pop up.

ALTGR & 4 does it for most windows keyboards, as does CTRL and ALT and 4 (together), as does CTRL and ALt and E - never had any luck with alt 0128 or alt $

(errherm, sorry for the thread drift)

 

[coopec]

Lots of rain and salt spray in space!

Maybe this is the reason?

Corrosion in space is the corrosion of materials occurring in outer space. Instead of moisture and oxygen acting as the primary corrosion causes, the materials exposed to outer space are subjected to vacuum, bombardment by ultraviolet light and x-rays, high-energy charged particles (mostly electrons and protons from the solar wind). In the upper layers of the atmosphere (between 90–800 km), the atmospheric atoms, ions and free radicals, most notably atomic oxygen, play a major role

 

[prv]

On my Mac with a UK keyboard, there's a € symbol printed above the 2, alongside the @. You get to it by pressing alt-2 instead of shift-2.

Not much call for euros in Australia, so I guess your keyboards don't make it easy to type. Similarly we have a £ above the 3 which I guess you don't.

Pete

 

[coopec]

Lots of rain and salt spray in space!

NASA EARTH MISSIONS

Atmosphere | Climate | Continental Drift and Geodynamics | Gravity
Hurricanes | Ice | Land and Vegetation | Oceans | Ozone
Sun and its Influence on Earth | Water Cycle | Weather | Wildfires

 

[coopec]

(errherm, sorry for the thread drift)

Thanks everyone for your help. I haven't got it to work yet but I have a brand new HP keyboard in the bookshelf. I'll hook that up tomorrow and have another go.
Cheers