Electrical connection anti-corrosion spray

coopec

coopec

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Forty years ago I was Mine Accountant at a mine-site in the North West of Australia. The best part of the job was to inspect the rubbish dump once per month and on one inspection I found a spray can which was used to spray electrical connections to prevent corrosion. (When I sprayed it the content was red)
Two questions:
ONE Would you recommend spraying connections and
TWO If it is a good idea what product would be best?
 
coopec said:
Had a quick look ACF-50 looks a lot like WD40 which did not rate well in a test by Practical Sailor
Click to expand...

In what way does it "look like" WD40, except for coming in an aerosol can?

Most people agree that WD40 is not great for any purpose except as a water displacer (hence WD). Does this mean you've ruled out any other product whose name also consists of letters and numbers?

Personally I use Contralube on my electrical connections, but that's a gel rather than a spray. Other people have reported good results with ACF-50.

Pete
 
When I read AC-50 is a "penetrant" and

ACF-50 (rust inhibitor) is no better than wd-40! - Traxxas
traxxas.com › Forum › Traxxas Electric › Stampede 4X4‎
Jul 28, 2011 - 8 posts - ‎6 authors
ACF-50 and Corrosion-X certainly must be applied sparingly. For screws, I spray a very small amount in the can cap and use a cotton swab to ...

Obviously I will have to do more reading. The can I found 40 years ago appeared to put a red rubber (or plastic) coating over the connection
 
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prv said:
In what way does it "look like" WD40, except for coming in an aerosol can?

Most people agree that WD40 is not great for any purpose except as a water displacer (hence WD).

Pete
Click to expand...

prv

Apart from both being in an aerosol can both are water dispersants. (That is why I thought they were similar)

"Does this mean you've ruled out any other product whose name also consists of letters and numbers?"

Do I detect a touch of sarcasm?


This guy seems to know what he is talking about and he likes AC-50.

"Well I will have to say do you know what it is first? Did you read up on it? I use it everyday on the helicopters we work on. We have all seen the difference in what wd-40 **** does and what Acf-50 does when used. Acf-50 primary job is to displace and repel moisture, when applied it spreads out, to cover the metal surface and work down into every crevice, driving out any moisture. It stop any corrosion that there is and stops it from spreading. Then you have a barrier from mositure and metal. You only need a small amount, very light coat. Some time we do a "fogging" Use it as a spray mist like action. If you glob or spray a large amount, like you have to do with wd-40. Well just like that stuff you will have all sorts of elements stuck to it""

I suppose I saw similarities in that they are both water dispersants.
 
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Got it!!

Has anyone tried this?

Scotch® 1600 Anti Corrosion Spray

Scotch® 1600 provides highly effective anti-corrosion protection. Its rubber-asphalt base forms a dense, abrasion resistant covering that protects against moisture, spray salt water, all corrosive media and is resistant to the effects of physical impacts. - See more at: http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/porta...00-anti-corrosion-spray/#sthash.BI8srdHW.dpuf

http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/porta...sion-sprays/scotch-1600-anti-corrosion-spray/
 
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Tinned Wire Myth Busted
Well-sealed connections key to wiring durability

The matter of tinned wire being the only type accepted as "marine grade" is rather interesting. Ancor was perhaps the first vendor to the boating market to supply tinned copper wire and label it as "marine grade." It was a brilliant marketing move because now many people think that tinned wire is the only legitimate wire to use on boats.

In fact, many boaters are of the belief that the American Boat and Yacht Council mandates the use of tinned wire in its electrical standards. Well, this whole matter falls into the maritime legend category.

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/34_6/psadvisory/Tinned-Wire_5632-1.html

Is this guy right?

"I don't dispute your comments that tinned is better, but thousands of beneteaus, jeaneaus etc have been built with untinned wire. In the main European builders don't see the need. Having owned several, some very old , I be not seen any deterioration in the internal wiring. For external wiring I would agree and I beleive most builders use tinned"
 
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I've used ACF-50 and corrosion block grease/liquid for over 10 years, very different to WD and very good at what it says on the tin. No complaints here just need to buy some more as I've run out.
 
I've heard it said the best thing to spray on electrics is 'dry air, continuously'.

Failing that, 'conformal coating' a catch-all term for a coating that sets dry to the touch is good for circuit boards.
The various oils, water dispersants all have their uses, different grades balance an oilier residue which will work with more disturbance vs a lighter oil which will attract less dirt but is more easily washed off.
When I had a 70's Italian motorbike, I found filling the connectors with Vaseline was the final solution.
Cheap silicone spray is good, dry to the touch but water repellent. Avoid anything you might ever want to paint though.

Of the aerosols, I find GT85 very good, it cleans off all the mess that the others attract.

'Damp Start' can be useful, it dries like a soft lacquer, sealing surfaces. Sold to keep damp out of Morris Minor ignition leads. Good for things that will inevitably be dripped on.

Mostly it's best to keep things clean and dry with heatshrink, self amalgamating tape and good connectors.
And install things with connections in dry places only!
 
coopec said:
Tinned Wire Myth Busted
Click to expand...

Both boats we've bought have had un-tinned wiring. They were not budget boats - one a Cornish Crabber, the other a Swedish Maxi, both built 15 - 20 years ago before the cost-cutting really started to bite in some yards. So your man is certainly right that boatbuilders don't insist on tinned wire.

However in both cases, by the time we owned them, the wire was comprehensively corroded. Still working, generally, but blackened and brittle and impossible to make any new connections. In both cases, I have ripped it all out and replaced it (I'm halfway through this process on the second boat right now). Never mind the boatbuilders' opinions, for my own work I insist on tinned.

Pete
 
lw395 said:
I've heard it said the best thing to spray on electrics is 'dry air, continuously'.

Failing that, 'conformal coating' a catch-all term for a coating that sets dry to the touch is good for circuit boards.
The various oils, water dispersants all have their uses, different grades balance an oilier residue which will work with more disturbance vs a lighter oil which will attract less dirt but is more easily washed off.
When I had a 70's Italian motorbike, I found filling the connectors with Vaseline was the final solution.
Cheap silicone spray is good, dry to the touch but water repellent. Avoid anything you might ever want to paint though.

Of the aerosols, I find GT85 very good, it cleans off all the mess that the others attract.

'Damp Start' can be useful, it dries like a soft lacquer, sealing surfaces. Sold to keep damp out of Morris Minor ignition leads. Good for things that will inevitably be dripped on.

Mostly it's best to keep things clean and dry with heatshrink, self amalgamating tape and good connectors.
And install things with connections in dry places only!
Click to expand...

I won't respond to the inevitable "expert" who posts on these Internet threads. They are always intolerant of other people's views (maybe it boosts their pathetic egos)

Your post makes absolute sense to me.

"Failing that, 'conformal coating' a catch-all term for a coating that sets dry to the touch is good for circuit boards".

Agree!! Why not stop the moisture getting in before you have to disperse it? My yacht wiring is completely new and that is why I want to use the Scotchguard product on all connections on the instrument panel. In addition I have used "heatshrink, self amalgamating tape and good connectors".

PS "Of the aerosols, I find GT85 very good, it cleans off all the mess that the others attract" The bikies reckon ACF-50 is yuk!
 
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nigelmercier said:
I had some success after dipping the end in hydrochloric acid until it looks like copper, then rinse with water, then IPA.
Click to expand...

Cheers, that's very useful. Most of it is being ripped and replaced, but I was stumped by the fuel tank sender which has the (corroded) wire potted into the top. I've already tried and failed once to get a decent connection - obviously being a resistive sensor this matters a great deal.

I guess brick cleaner from B&Q is the easiest way to get hold of HCl?

Pete
 
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