electrical advice needed

[wetspot]

I have a Bayliner 2556 with a 300hp mercruiser 4.2L Diesel on a Bravo3, the boat works great, but after leaving the boat attached to the shore power with charger on last November, it turned out the shore charger was not of the automatic kind an it subsequently melted one of the cranking batteries, the engine needs 1000cca to start, I previously used a pair of Bosch wagon batteries which worked fine providing the battery selector switch was in the all position, but I had a total of 5 batteries fitted, 2 for the engine and 3 running of a split charge relay for the house, to make things more complicated a friend has just given yes given me a 'Lifeline GPL4D' 210ah with 1100cca, I am hoping to fit the new battery in the next week or so but I need some advice on how to wire it all up, I intend to fit a smart charger as well

everything is running on a common earth, the 2 cranking batteries (that were) are on a standard 1,2,all, switch, the house batteries are running on a split charge relay

should I do away with the house bank and just run 1,2,all? or should I keep the slightly complicated system if so how could I install a smartcharger to cover all??

any advice will be much appriciated

 

[halcyon]

verything is running on a common earth, the 2 cranking batteries (that were) are on a standard 1,2,all, switch, the house batteries are running on a split charge relay

Can you expand on the system.

Are the two starter batteries bank 1 and 2 on the 1,2, both slector ?

Does the service bank charged via VSR have it's own isolator ?

What is the make/type of mains charger ?

Brian

 

[wetspot]

the 2 starter bats are 1,2,all on the main isolator, the house bats are on a split charge relay and have a seperate isolator (in the cabin) to isolate them from the tv ps2 etc

 

[halcyon]

the 2 starter bats are 1,2,all on the main isolator, the house bats are on a split charge relay and have a seperate isolator (in the cabin) to isolate them from the tv ps2 etc

Just connect your new battery to battery1 on the 1,2, both switch and use it as a isolator.

Still odd that you burnt out one battery, are you sure it is not a smart charger? and you did not just have a duff engine battery?

Brian

 

[wetspot]

as far as I am aware, the isolator was in the off position when the battery burnt out, had it been in the ALL position I believe it would have burnt both cranking batteries, do you think I should keep the battery setup as it is?
if so how should I configuire the charger?
BTW my mate who gave me the 210ah battery said he had another one if I wanted it, I could do away with the house bank and just run 2x210ah batteries of the origonal isolator?

 

[ianj99]

I have a Bayliner 2556 with a 300hp mercruiser 4.2L Diesel on a Bravo3, the boat works great, but after leaving the boat attached to the shore power with charger on last November, it turned out the shore charger was not of the automatic kind an it subsequently melted one of the cranking batteries, the engine needs 1000cca to start, I previously used a pair of Bosch wagon batteries which worked fine providing the battery selector switch was in the all position, but I had a total of 5 batteries fitted, 2 for the engine and 3 running of a split charge relay for the house, to make things more complicated a friend has just given yes given me a 'Lifeline GPL4D' 210ah with 1100cca, I am hoping to fit the new battery in the next week or so but I need some advice on how to wire it all up, I intend to fit a smart charger as well

everything is running on a common earth, the 2 cranking batteries (that were) are on a standard 1,2,all, switch, the house batteries are running on a split charge relay

should I do away with the house bank and just run 1,2,all? or should I keep the slightly complicated system if so how could I install a smartcharger to cover all??

any advice will be much appriciated

Is the shore charger charging all the batteries - ie the engine batteries directly and the house ones through the charge splitter?
Is this actually a relay or a diode splitter?

If the latter and the charger is sensing the house battery terminal voltage, the engine batteries will be over charged because the charger's output will be higher to allow for the voltage drop across the diodes.

If so you'll find the new battery will go the way of the old ones...

You should investigate why the batteries were wrecked. It may not be the charger but how its been wired.

I'd suggest a Sterling 3 output 30amp charger. You can then simply connect each battery (or bank) to its own output.

I

 

[wetspot]

the shore charger was only conected to the cranking batteries, the split charge relay was activated by the alternator, and thus would not have charged the house bank.
it is a relay not a splitter.
I have been offered another 210ah 1100cca battery, should I do away with the house bank and just run all through the origional 1,2,all isolator switch or should I keep it as it is?

as for the charger I have been looking at a CTEK Multi XS 25000 which from what I understand will quite happily charge and condition 2x210ah batteries although it seems quite exspensive? at £209.95

 

[ianj99]

the shore charger was only conected to the cranking batteries, the split charge relay was activated by the alternator, and thus would not have charged the house bank.
it is a relay not a splitter.
I have been offered another 210ah 1100cca battery, should I do away with the house bank and just run all through the origional 1,2,all isolator switch or should I keep it as it is?

as for the charger I have been looking at a CTEK Multi XS 25000 which from what I understand will quite happily charge and condition 2x210ah batteries although it seems quite exspensive? at £209.95

If the 210ah batteries are new or newer than the existing ones then fit only those via the 1,2 both switch plus a 3 or 4 stage charger with 2 or more outputs. These aren't cheap but are a good investment in my opinion.
Its also better to have identical batteries when charging from a single source.

I also recommend a digital alternator regulator if not already fitted. This will ensure the batteries reach full charge instead of the typical 80% achieved by an automotive alternator, as well as charging them more quickly.

I use Sterling Power gear and have had no problems with it - just fit and forget.

http://www.sterling-power.com/

I

 

[Jegs]

Batt Charge

I have a Cetek 25000 - an excellent product in my view, just wish they'd produce one with a 50 amp output. Sterling product returned because it needed to have all three outputs used in order to function properly.

John G