Electric windlass recommendations.

[Koeketiene]

This Winter, I'm looking to install, at long last, an electric windlass on the boat.

I've a shortlist of 3 possible options.
In no particular order:

1. Lofrans X2
2. Lewmar VX2+
3. Maxwell RC10-8

I would love to hear from people who have any of these installed.
The good, the bad, etc...

Many thanks

 

[Goldie]

Not a massive amount of experience with different makes, and none with those specific models but for what it’s worth:

1. I had a Lofrans Tigres for a few years and when it failed (broke up internally) I replaced it like for like. The pluses were the fast retrieval rate and a manual back-up but the big negative was the amount of dissimilar metal corrosion. I’d have another, but I’d dismantle, grease and Duralac as many components as possible. Lofrans spares were difficult to source when I wanted them, but I believe this may have been a temporary issue.

2. I currently have a Lewmar Ocean 2 - no problems so far but it lacks any manual back-up in the event of an electrical problem.

3. No first hand experience but I’ve heard very good things!

 

[vyv_cox]

We are on our second Maxwell, only changed the first one to upgrade to a capstan. Excellent, very fast recovery, plenty of power. Used a lot over 12 years, no problems.

 

[Neeves]

We have the RC8-6. No issues, exceptionally fast recovery, excellent back up service (at least here in Oz, by email). Their back up service is 24/365, includes Xmas. Easy to instal. We opted for a slightly bigger motor than recommended, 1000 watt. We opted for the bigger motor as we accept one day we might need to pull the cat to the anchor. We opted for no capstan as our windlass is below deck, I think in our installation with clean decks a capstan would be a trip hazard and we have 2 mast located winches anyway with the ability to locate a block to give a clean run to the bow roller. The windlass has an option for a vertical extension so you can hand retreive (a bit like a socket set extender). We did not take up this option. Note the handle to hand grind looks like a conventional winch handle - IT IS NOT. The base of the location hole has a domed nut in it, and a matching recess in the handle (missing from a winch handle). So a winch handle is a bodge.

Great bit of kit.

Jonathan

 

[Cspirit]

Yesterday I installed a Lofrans SX1 windlass on my 8 metre boat. All stainless so hopefully corrosion will be minimised. Clearly I’ve not yet used it but it seems well made and was easy to install. My previous boat, 10 tonnes had 2 Lofrans horizontals. The first lasted about 10 years, anchoring most days. Corrosion killed it - I should have regularly serviced it and applied Duralac. Otherwise, the windlass performed perfectly, often under extreme conditions

 

[dansaskip]

I chose a Maxwell (RC8 -8)- largely because of the SS construction. It also because it can be operated manually with a special winch handle ( as Neeves says) although it would be a struggle I think. It has been excellent in use and its gypsy copes with a mixed chain & rope rode.

 

[Neeves]

I chose a Maxwell (RC8 -8)- largely because of the SS construction. It also because it can be operated manually with a special winch handle ( as Neeves says) although it would be a struggle I think. It has been excellent in use and its gypsy copes with a mixed chain & rope rode.

I did try the winch handle - but I was only lifting 6mm chain and a 8kg aluminium anchor. Quite possible - but easier simply pulling the chain up hand over hand and sorting out the chain later. The extension to the handle might make it easier - these windlass are pretty flush to the deck and you cannot get your 'body' into grinding the chain in. If you simply pull the chain in, hand over hand, then it is very easy to pass the chain to its locker using the supplied winch handle - and its then hockle free. Its not a practice I'd favour - emergency only.

Rust of the windlass is not the obvious problem, or it is a problem but not of the windlass. The motors seem to be all very similar and the motor casing is mild steel, consequently the cover corrodes. No matter what you do - the motor is in a salt laden wet environment. Remedial action on installation will extend the life, but the cover will still corrode from the inside to out. The other problem is the use of stainless bolts with aluminium components and no protection between the bolts and the aluminium part. Obviously if its, windlass, all stainless this will not occur but the gear box are sometimes aluminium castings etc. On new yachts windlass are installed by the builder or the commissioning team - they invariably do not use Duralac - guess what happens??!! If you have a new yacht or new windlass you will extend windlass life if you take it apart, add Duralac, protect the motor casing and service regularly - the windlass will last decades.

Servicing is easy, clean the unit, clean and grease the shaft, check the gearbox oil (Maxwell's have a neat see through bolt to allow visual examination without taking the gear box apart). Re-assemble (with Duralac). Servicing is the sort of task to complete on a warm summers day - sitting on the foredeck and taking your time. Its really not difficult - though you may ne to be a contortionist to access some of the nuts and bolts. The Maxwell windlass we have is easily removed by releasing a 'sort of' circlip at the bottom of the shaft and the whole unit releases with a simple twist to clear a bayonet type restriction.

This is part of a windlass, Muir, with which I was involved. We needed to use an angle grinder to cut it out of the locker, simply chopped of the stainless bolts. I took it home and took it apart.

It had worked in the yacht, but slowly, and the owner, wisely, decided to remove and replace. The gearbox appeared to have been lubricated with seawater, mud and rust. I'm not aware the windlass had ever been serviced.



Jonathan

 

[vyv_cox]

I chose a Maxwell (RC8 -8)- largely because of the SS construction. It also because it can be operated manually with a special winch handle ( as Neeves says) although it would be a struggle I think. It has been excellent in use and its gypsy copes with a mixed chain & rope rode.

This season my Maxwell windlass failed, fortunately only due to corrosion of the earth terminal attached to the motor. For a couple of days I recovered about 30 metres of 8 mm chain and 15 kg Rocna hauling by hand. Not something I would like to do every day but easier than trying to wind the windlass manually.

 

[Koeketiene]

Thanks for all the replies so far.
I'm leaning towards the Maxwell.
It's the most expensive one of the 3 I'm considering. Isn't it always?

I'm also planning to replace part of the standing rigging this Winter, but I'm still waiting for the quote on this one.

I've been set a budget by the treasurer (better half), so if the standing rigging quote puts me over budget, it'll have to be the Lofrans or Lewmar.