Electric Water Heater

cliff said:
To me it look like you are looking for a RECO 3B090900S ... Hex size looks like 60mm (2 3/8" AF)
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I got from Reco that it may be a 2SIG000822YT001 800W element, but I can't find any reference to this.

I've measured the side of the nut a bit more accurately using Photoshop. It is 33mm, so according to the Regular Polygon Calculator site, this makes the inner radius (apothem) 28.5788 mm giving exactly 2¼" AF.
 
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OK I measured it at 34mm giving a ½ A/F of 29.4mm - say 60mm A/F or 2 3/8" so it would appear to be in that region and reinforce the belief that the thread is 1¼ UNI 338 (1¼ BSPP) as per RECO catalogue.

Personally I would fit a 1kw unit assuming the wiring can cope (which it should)

Your call but you still need to get the old element out in any event unless you are going to scrap the whole calorifier and spend mega beer tokens on a new one.
Can you get one of your friends to measure the A/F accurately with a vernier? or better still try to remove the old element. These long distance repairs can be a real PITA unless you know someone there who is practical and not afraid to give the thing a judicious wallop
 
cliff said:
Personally I would fit a 1kw unit ... you still need to get the old element out ...
Click to expand...

I would prefer to stick with 800W, as my generator can run this OK.

The element was fairly easy to turn when I tightened it a couple of years ago. It had a slow leak, hence the corrosion and calcification. At the time I didn't realise the thermostat unplugged, or I would have taken a closer look.

Thanks for all the help so far, I'll see how I get on.
 
cliff said:
OK I measured it at 34mm giving a ½ A/F of 29.4mm - say 60mm A/F or 2 3/8" so it would appear to be in that region and reinforce the belief that the thread is 1¼ UNI 338 (1¼ BSPP) as per RECO catalogue.
Click to expand...

Is that right?

My heater is 57mm A/F, so about 2 1/4", which looks the same as the photos. I haven't removed the heating element yet but looking it up I'm expecting 1 1/2" BSP.

Although I did just use wikipedia for reference
 
Don't think it's the same model. But I haven't cross checked it against your photo. Mine is an Ardic calorifier. They went bankrupt a few years ago apparently.

Everything works except the immersion heater which is short circuited.

I plan to replace it but not quite yet. I don't want to buy the replacement heating element until I've got the old one out and know exactly what size it is. So, first thing I need to do is make up a U bend for the engine cooling water so I can still run the engine after I've removed the calorifier to get at the immersion heater and I haven't quite got around to that yet.
 
dt4134 said:
Mine is an Ardic calorifier. They went bankrupt a few years ago apparently...
Click to expand...

They were taken over by Eberspächer, so I contacted their service agents Espar, but they don't think my calorifier is an Ardic.

I don't suppose anyone can recognise the calorifier from this photo:

Thermowatt-RTS-6.png
 
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nigelmercier said:
I don't suppose anyone can recognise the calorifier from this photo:

Thermowatt-RTS-6.png
Click to expand...

It looks very much like the one on my friend's Bav. That is a QL they were distributed through VP but no longer supported see http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744580-83-28.aspx
The ATI ones sold through Penguin look very similar and they list an 800W element that I think you were looking for. http://www.penguineng.com/ATIManual.pdf page 13
Have you tried Penguin yet? That's where I got a 'stat from for the QL unit.
 
heater

This looks similar to the thermostat on our 31.7. Ours has tripped out a couple of times when we ran out of water with the water heater switched on. If it is the same as ours then to access the reset button you rotate the yellow temperature control disk until the reset button is exposed thro the small hole. You then need to poke a small screwdriver thro the hole and you should hear the cutout reset itself. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS ALL ISOLATED WHEN YOU DO THIS!
 
Update on this thread.

I now have better pictures of the heating element. The markings appear to be: RECO 02 01 (twice), and A02C386 W800 V220 REART stamped into the face.

The manufacturer (RECO) is not being very helpful, although they did suggest it may be their 2SIG000822YT001 800W element. Their current range seems to have 1¼" UNI 338 (1¼" BSPP) threads. Some years ago these heating elements were produced with a stainless steel screw, now they are brass.

I've heard from Quick Italy, distributors for RECO:

"I'd like to inform you that our electric elements are made of Incoloy, a material that grants longer durability than standard electric elements. The total length of our electric elements is about 30cm. The thread of our electric element is 1'' 1/4 GAS...

The thermostat: OSP KIT BI-TERMOSTAT 15A 270MM BOILER - FVSLTB152700A00
The 800W 220V electric element: OSP KIT ELEC ELEMENT BOILER 800W 220V SG - FVSLRSB0822SA00"

So, I have the length (30cm), the thread (1¼" BSPP) and the wattage (800W).

The question is, do I want stainless or Incoloy element?
 
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