electric toilet query

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causeway

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Having just finished replumbing the hot and cold water system on my boat I'm now turning my attention to the electric toilet installation as done by the previous owner.

Do inlet and outlet both need a loop above the waterline?
Do they both require vented loops?

Works fine as is but the pipes are blocking access to my wet locker and it just looks untidy.

Its the standard non retrofit jabsco jobbie. For hobbies.
 
I was thinking they would fit nicely into the Storage cavity beside the wet locker.

Problem is there are no vents in either side and the only picture in the installation guide shows an outlet going out into a holding tank which doesn't need a loop.

Neither this or my last Boat have had vented loops. How many of you are the same?
 
elec toilet

I had a similar problem when I inhehited a poor instalation. To be safe both inlet and out let should have a vented loop particularly if the toilet is below the waterline. An ordinary vented loop is fine for the waste outlet but wont work properly on the intake as the flushing water is being sucked by the pump rather than pushed. The correct solution is to have a normaly open solenoid valve conected to the intake vented loop which is closed when energised by the on switch. I dont know if jabsco still sell them but I managed to find a turkish manufacturer in Istanbul when we were in Turkey. Most of the ones made for the auto industry are normally closed which is no good
 
causeway said:
Neither this or my last Boat have had vented loops. How many of you are the same?
Click to expand...

Our last boat had a vented loop on the outlet, but not on the inlet. The inlet siphoned unless you closed the seacock, which was really awkward to get at. I fitted a vented loop and the siphoning stopped.

New boat had a vented loop on the inlet, and a pass-through gravity tank (fulfilling the same role) on the outlet. The metal tank was rusty and leaking, so I took it out. For Solent and Channel cruising I don't see a great need for it, so I didn't fit a replacement. I installed a vented loop on the new outlet hose. Again no siphoning problems whatsoever.

Pete
 
santelmo said:
An ordinary vented loop is fine for the waste outlet but wont work properly on the intake as the flushing water is being sucked by the pump rather than pushed. The correct solution is to have a normaly open solenoid valve
Click to expand...

That's interesting. I've never seen a Jabsco electric loo, but does it not have the hose from pump to bowl like the manual ones do? On a manual below the waterline the proper procedure is to remove the short length of hose from the pump to the bowl (so downstream of the pump, water "being pushed") and extend it with new hose into a vented loop. Trying to fit the loop into the intake before the pump is doomed to failure, as you say, whether the pump is electric or manual.

Pete
 
I don't recommend a sharp 90° bend, as it will invite blockages. But good quality hose should be flexible enough to make a smooth swept bend and pass through the panel behind the toilet. You could then run it up against the side of the hull (making a cutout in each shelf for it to pass through), put a vent at the top, and come back down again. Pity about the location of the seacock; it's going to be tricky to get a smooth and discreet run onto that.

What is the black hose, and who put it there? I would be deeply suspicious of that. You want proper sanitation hose to prevent smells permeating through the wall, and I have never encountered sanitary hose in black. That looks as if it might be ordinary corrugated hose for bilge pumps etc. The mutt's nuts is this stuff: http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine...water-hose/seaflow-butyl-sanitation-hose-38mm - yes it's expensive, but it's a joy to work with compared to the older stiff white stuff (will make that swept bend easily) and reputedly absolutely smell-proof. JFM over in the motorboatalists' forum has specified it for his new multi-million pound superyacht, and you don't get a better endorsement than that in my book.

The loop in the inlet hose belongs in between the pump and the bowl, not before the pump as currently arranged. It doesn't matter at the moment, but it will when you insert a vent.

Pete
 
Didn't know that it was anything but normal sanitation hose, so thanks for that PRV, another thing to change!

Current plan is to drill a fugly hole just behind and to the right of the toilet then route all the hoses up through there, think that is about as neat as it will ever get unfortunately. Any better ideas?

The hoses will do for now but i will get vents and change the hoses in time, although i don't seem to be suffering from any smells but i live aboard so there isn't time for them to develop.
 
causeway said:
Current plan is to drill a fugly hole just behind and to the right of the toilet then route all the hoses up through there, think that is about as neat as it will ever get unfortunately. Any better ideas?
Click to expand...

Seems fair enough for the hoses on their way out of the toilet. The bigger question is how you get the outlet from there to the seacock, which is unfortunately located in the middle of the sole. If it were me, I would probably build a new piece of cabinetry to the left of the toilet, a little lower than the bottom of the wet locker door and just wide enough to contain the seacock. Then the hose and seacock would be hidden inside it (and you could also keep spare loo rolls or whatever in there :) ). But I know that I'm a bit of a perfectionist :D

Pete
 
I have a Jabsco LITE electric toilet. It sits somewhat above the water level as far as I can estimate. Neither it nor the manual ones that preceded it have ever had a loop on the inlet, as originally installed by Sadler. The outlet does have a loop. We have never had a problem with flooding. The inlet on the electric one is at the base, whereas those on the manuals were on top of the pump.
 
OK, so after replacing the outlet hose and rerouting the other hose I now have a back syphon problem. I should have just left well alone!

The bowl hasn't overflowed but has filled up to the brim. Is it likely to spill over, given time?

It seems to be a problem with the inlet as with the outlet shut it still happens.

The inlet loop is now a half an inch lower if this makes a difference.

What are the part numbers for the hose and anti syphon? Or similar?

Many thanks
 
It will overflow if the rim is below the waterline. The anti syphon loop shouldn't be between the seacock and the loo it should be between the loo pump and the inlet to the toilet bowl.
 
I got the bit about the anti syphon thanks lazykipper.

Now, how do I measure the height of the toilet? Hmmm, think I'll just keep the seacock closed for the time being!
 
TBH if you're getting any syphon return then there's an issue, when the boat heels on the side the loo is it will lower the height of the loo relative to the waterline. And if it's syphoning then it means the valves in the loo aren't working correctly, they may need a clean but may need replacing, this may be a warning they're going to fail.
 
Lazy Kipper said:
Doesn't the flapper valve at the top drop down to seal the intake?
Click to expand...

I thought this too as the valve points back out the inlet. Mine looked a bit buggered when I checked it. Did I read somewhere that it was to aid in suction?

Is the inlet pipe the same diameter as the one from the pump to bowl?

nvm, i'm an idiot i was looking at the outlet joker and thinking it was on the inlet! Ordered one anyway as it looks a bit buggered.
 
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