VicS
Well-Known Member
In which case it should allow air in to break the siphon. Check that the vent isnot obstructed and thet the valve opens freely
( not fitted the loop lower and extended the vent have you ? )
Electric Toilet conundrum
- Thread starter Irish Rover
- Start date
( not fitted the loop lower and extended the vent have you ? )
Irish Rover
Well-Known Member
The vent is definitely not obstructed. I didn't understand the bit in brackets at the end. I've connected one side of the vent to the pump clean water outlet and the other to the inlet at the toilet rim. The vent is the highest bit of the setup.
LittleSister
Well-Known Member
I think he's saying that the anti-syphon loop fitting must be above the waterline outside the boat (assuming you are using seawater for flushing) or the highest possible level of water in the tank (if you are using freshwater), and the pipes to and from the vent fitting (that the water goes through) must go up above the waterline to it. If you just put the fitting at the same level as the toilet, and a hose up from the vent of the fitting to above the waterline that will not work.
When you stop pumping, the water in the pipe between the bowl and the anti-syphon fitting will fall into the bowl (sucking air in through the vent), and the water between the pump and the fitting will either just sit there, or slowly fall back to match the waterline. In between the water in the bowl and the water in the water inlet, the pipe will just have air in it, and it is this air gap that stops the water syphoning into the toilet continually.
If the water is syphoning in either the fitting is not above the relevant waterline, or the vent is not letting air in.
Irish Rover
Well-Known Member
Thanks again. The vent is at least 30 cm above the outside water level and is the highest point of the loop. I'm closing the vent while flushing otherwise the pressure is causing water to leak out and almost fully unscrewing the vent afterwards but the bowl is still filling. I can actually see the drip from under the rim. Could the pressure of the boat on the inlet be pushing the water through rather than just a syphon affect?
Boater Sam
Well-Known Member
Open a hatch, you must have a vacuum inside your boat.
Proper sea toilets, Blakes, have a manual valve before the bowl to stop it filling when you don't want it to. You could fit a weighted restrictor valve there.
VicS
Well-Known Member
There should not be water leaking out of the vent. The valve should close while you are pumping, but it should open to allow air to enter when you stop and the only extra water that enters the bowl will be what is in the hose between the toilet and the top of the loop.
I dont understand what you mean by "the pressure of the boat on the inlet"
I have just come across this Jabsco 37068-2000 - SOLENOID SWITCH / Toilet Accessories / Marine Toilets / Marine / Xylem JabscoShop - Jabsco & Rule Pumps and more - from the experts . I assume this fits in place of the existing valve and will close while you are pumping and open again to allow air to enter when you stop pumping. £50 though
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
Check that the valve in the siphon break as in your case the valve should close when pumping and open to let air in when you stop pumping.
On my electric jabsco my siphon break is between the rinse pump and the bowl and I get no siphoning.
On my electric jabsco my siphon break is between the rinse pump and the bowl and I get no siphoning.
Irish Rover
Well-Known Member
Ignore me regarding the pressure. remember I'm a tech numpty.
This is what I have fittedmarintekstore.com: Tuvalet
So should the valve at the top be screwed home or a little open or loose? If I leave it more than a tiny bit open I get a leak when flushing.
Karlsenkystfiske
Well-Known Member
Would you be so sweet as to post a picture of the inline n/r valve? I have fitted anti syphoning valves on both in and out. +changed the flap valve. Toilet bowl will still fill up after a while. I suspect the syphoning valve on the outlet is mounted just a little bit too low. But there is no more headspace in the technical room where I put it
Irish Rover
Well-Known Member
If you're expecting sweet you've git the wrong guy 
.
I don't have an an anti-syphon on the discharge/outlet side but I do have a non-return in addition to the joker [flap] valve - this
Jabsco 29295-1000 - In-line non-return valve / Bilge Pump Accessories / Bilge Pumps / Pumps / Marine / Xylem JabscoShop - Jabsco & Rule Pumps and more - from the experts
You need to be sure whether the bowl is filling from the inlet or discharge side. The easiest way is to put some coloured liquid in the bowl and flush just enough to get it out of the bowl and beyond the joker valve. Put on the kettle and wait for the bowl to start to fill. If it's coloured your problem is on the discharge side and if it's clean it's on the inlet.
In my case the problem is on the inlet side and replacing the anti-syphon valve didn't solve the problem so I suspect something in the pump has failed. I have a spare pump and I'm planning to swap them to see if it solves the problem.
.I don't have an an anti-syphon on the discharge/outlet side but I do have a non-return in addition to the joker [flap] valve - this
Jabsco 29295-1000 - In-line non-return valve / Bilge Pump Accessories / Bilge Pumps / Pumps / Marine / Xylem JabscoShop - Jabsco & Rule Pumps and more - from the experts
You need to be sure whether the bowl is filling from the inlet or discharge side. The easiest way is to put some coloured liquid in the bowl and flush just enough to get it out of the bowl and beyond the joker valve. Put on the kettle and wait for the bowl to start to fill. If it's coloured your problem is on the discharge side and if it's clean it's on the inlet.
In my case the problem is on the inlet side and replacing the anti-syphon valve didn't solve the problem so I suspect something in the pump has failed. I have a spare pump and I'm planning to swap them to see if it solves the problem.
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Karlsenkystfiske
Well-Known Member
I am 98% certain that it must be the outlet. The anti-syphon on the inlet is higher than the one on the outlet, and it is totaly dry. Toilet bowl fills even if I close ther outlet overboard valve, but I write that up the water in the hose slowly draining backwards past the joker valve. Those joker valves realy suck. Had troubles with them on the past two TMC toilets.
That inline return valve looks sweet! Will give it a go If it works, it would make anti-syphon on the outlet redundant.
That inline return valve looks sweet! Will give it a go
If it works, it would make anti-syphon on the outlet redundant.
Irish Rover
Well-Known Member
I strongly recommend you try the coloured water test.I am 98% certain that it must be the outlet. The anti-syphon on the inlet is higher than the one on the outlet, and it is totaly dry. Toilet bowl fills even if I close ther outlet overboard valve, but I write that up the water in the hose slowly draining backwards past the joker valve. Those joker valves realy suck. Had troubles with them on the past two TMC toilets.
That inline return valve looks sweet! Will give it a go
Is your toilet sea water flush? If so another test would be to close the seacock on the inflow immediately after you've flushed the bowl dry. If the bowl doesn't fill then your problem is inlet.
Karlsenkystfiske
Well-Known Member
Today I took it apart, and qwuickly realized what is going on. Water is leaking in from the pump into the bowl! Seeing that my anti syphon valve is fitted between bowl and pump, it does nothing to stop this flow. There is some brass bushing I believe on the shaft between pump and macerator that gets worn... Or some rubber, will see when the maintenance kit arrives.