Electric polishers

[David_J]

I am going to buy an electric polisher/buffer but the choice is endless from cheap and cheerful to really expensive. As with most things no doubt you get what you pay for so any recommendations for a good middle of the road machine that you have actually used and what polish do you use with it?

 

[Nick_H]

I bought this one based on a reccomendation on here

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis.../das-6-pro-dual-action-polisher/prod_673.html

It has been used to polish a number of boats this year in Port Vauban with good results. It's quite light, and also a safer option that a rotary polisher, as it's much harder to burn the gel with a dual action machine.

 

[gjgm]

I am going to buy an electric polisher/buffer but the choice is endless from cheap and cheerful to really expensive. As with most things no doubt you get what you pay for so any recommendations for a good middle of the road machine that you have actually used and what polish do you use with it?

If you do a search I have previously put up a link to saiing mag review of polishers and polishes.
IMHO it depends wht you need to do. The Silverline 50 quid one is pretty ok but a bit heavy, but you can do gel repairs with it with the right compounds. I also have a makita which is 4-5 times the price. It is a much nicer machine, but maybe you dont need it unless you are going to be doing many many hours. I havent checked NickHs link, but I guess its the random orbital ? This is ok for light work, but it wont have the grunt to get down and dirty (ie major gel restoration) OTOH it light and very easy to use.
In the end though, it is more the mops/sponges/compounds and polishes that do the work. Personally I like the 3M gear, but there are plenty more. You just need to know what you are starting with, because once you have removed that gel, you cant stick it back on. So, start with a medium polish, and if you arent getting anywhere, go more towards compounds.
As I say, already alot on the forum, so please try a search.

 

[rosssavage]

I have the cheap silverline one. It works very well (soft start is essential) but becomes heavy quickly.

A friend has the expensive but very light 3m one. It is an absolute joy to use, but expensive..

 

[MrB]

The Makita and the Porter Cable polishers are generally considered the best in the detailing world.

 

[mad_boater]

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=261424931477

We have had one of these for years,a great machine light weight powerful worth every penny
You will need a lambs wool polishing attachment, either buy the double side one with the stitched in mounting boss
Or get a Velcro backing pad and buy a 3m Velcro one both of these can be washed in a washing machine

Do not bother with the tie on types these are rubbish and just keep coming untied or just spin on the end ,

The method we use is to put the polishing compound directly onto the fibreglass with a damp sponge and run the machine over it till the shine comes up , if it's still not shinny enough put a bit more compound on and do it again,
Also if the boat is relatively new boat don't be too heavy handed you can go through the gel coat as it only thin if it's a old
70/80 boat like old birchwoods the gelcote is thicker and harder to burn through ,

When you have finished compounding you will need to apply 2 coats of wax , you can do this by hand or if you have a spare lambswool mop head you can use that,

When we do it we work on a small area at a time and finish it putting the wax on as we go ,that way if you don't finish the
Boat in one day the work you have done will be protected with the wax

NB sorry about the odd spacing ect my son wrote it as he does the polishing these days(aren't I lucky?)

 

[pks1702]

I bought this one based on a reccomendation on here

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis.../das-6-pro-dual-action-polisher/prod_673.html

It has been used to polish a number of boats this year in Port Vauban with good results. It's quite light, and also a safer option that a rotary polisher, as it's much harder to burn the gel with a dual action machine.

+1

 

[Grampus]

I bought a Silverline and it worked well. The problem is that it is just too heavy, especially if you are working along a vertical surface.

I saw a commercial boat polishing company using the Flex L1503VR and had a look at the spec. It weighs 1.9 kg, under half the weight of the Silverline and as I had seen how good they were, judging from the results I saw, I decided to buy one.

I've only used it a little so far but the results are as expected and I'm finding it much lighter to use, and can be happily operated by a single hand. It's no bigger nor heavier than a mini griderette, but has slower speeds and is designed as a polisher.

I've also had the rotary/orbital type too, and while lighter still, it did not seem to work as well for me, hence the original purchase of the Silverline, but as I said, just too heavy for long time use - guess I need to do some body building first.

 

[kevingreystones]

Got mine from Halfords did a great job and replacement bonnets etc very reasonably priced.

 

[Cashbuyer]

I use a Maguires g220 dual action. Not too heavy and with foam pads which you can re-use after washing. Velcro attachments. I use it regularly to top up the wax/polish and it's pretty quick on a 35' motor boat. Pads big enough to cover flat areas quickly but also small enough to detail. 3M is my product of choice.

 

[Cashbuyer]

I use a Maguires g220 dual action. Not too heavy and with foam pads which you can re-use after washing. Velcro attachments. I use it regularly to top up the wax/polish and it's pretty quick on a 35' motor boat. Pads big enough to cover flat areas quickly but also small enough to detail. 3M is my product of choice.

Sorry, that should read Meguiar's G220

 

[David_J]

My thanks to all who replied. Apologies for slow response but been under the weather

 

[Marine Reflections]

Hope you feel better David.


When choosing a machine that is right for you, consider the following:

What surface conditions you are intending to correct, fine polishing (enhancing a near flawless gel coat), or bringing a sanded surface back to full gloss for example.

Weight of the machine.

The noise it creates whilst working.

The 'technique' you will be using, your ability.

Access to the surfaces, solid working platform or dodgy ladder.

The backing pads / sponges / wool you are going to work the liquid products with and their availability.

How hot the machine gets.

A 'circular' rotary machine or an 'oscillating' dual action' machine.

Your budget.

Length of warranty. (Most manufacturers who stand by their quality will offer 3 years).

Your own safety.


I correct an awful lot of gel coat and use different machines for different tasks, but the 'circular' rotary polisher is used 95% of the time, the other machines are only used to make life in tricky sections a little easier.

View attachment 43473

 

[stephen_h]

I have used the large rotary type for the hull but what do you use
for the topsides/cabins with all the fiddly bits?
Can you get a mini polisher like a mini grinder?

 

[Marine Reflections]

An extension bar will space the machine from the backing pad enabling access to most fiddly bits.
You can get backing pads and heads down to just 2" width, so access to most isn't a problem with a rotary.

Most of the fiddly work is knowing the machine you are using, how it revolves, when it can bite and where it can catch, that's where most people burn the gel as machine gets stuck.

 

[Sydneysider]

I have just finished polishing some slightly oxidised sections from my flybridge /cabin sides of my Antares 30, using 3m perfect-it rubbing compound (It is quite fine as I had to do some sections twice), I noticed when the sun is on one certain angle against the sides I can see some light swirl marks. Is the best way to remove these with a light polish? I have some 3m finesse-it. Should I worry about removing wax before polishing?
Thanks Scott

 

[Marine Reflections]

Hi Scott,

Yes, remove the wax prior to correcting the swirls or it won't show the raw surface as it stands alone. Acetone

The finesse it should be ok but you will need a different head on the polisher, softer, at the very least clean.

Don't make the mistake of not polishing enough on the first stage, what I mean is, make sure the swirl marks are ones you have created and not ones that you have revealed.
It may be that you will need to go back a stage but you won't find that out until polished to full clarity.

 

[Marine Reflections]

To add..

It is important to mention (for me) that removing defects such as swirls, it's not always as simple as changing to a finer polish & pad.

It depends on what created the marks and at what depth they go into the surface. This will determine the course of action, a game plan even.

Most new boats today are in need of some form of correction prior to handover, they may have sat on a hard standing for a few months before a helpful employee ran a dry cloth over the surfaces. They may even have polished it.

Second hand boats are subject to regular wash downs, applications of the latest snake oil, hosed off with the pontoon water and leaving the water droplets to bake in the Sun, salt crystals being scrubbed into gel coat.
In it's time someone may have taken a polisher, some compound and used a mop head that had been kicked around the yard, then 'polished'.

Sorry, but I see it all the time, think the kid out of sixth sense and the hospital scene, just replace the dead people with swirl marks.

You have polished the oxidation away and created a shine.

You have noticed further improvements are possible.

You are staring down the long tunnel of chasing perfection.

Most won't try, don't know how, lack of equipment, lack of time etc, rather be boating which is fair enough.
For those who enjoy it or find it rewarding like myself, chasing perfection has many rewards, the main one being the ease of future maintenance and prolonged duration of protection applications and of course pleasing the eye.

Try it on 1 square ft, reach perfection, true perfection mind, not 'that will do', but 100%. You will find that it takes more than you might think.

Stare at the surface (good shades on) with the Sun behind you and in the reflection Don't stare directly at the centre of Sun's reflection, just the edges or you will damage eyes, from a distance of under a ft, go back and fourth with your focus on the actual surface and the reflected image, you will find defects that need correcting.

The pinnacle of perfection takes far more to achieve on a boat that already has deep swirls than a single pass with a polisher. Unless of course you are doing that fine process over and over, say once a year until you reach perfection.
In the mean time are you adding more swirls / scratches during your wash down processes?

 

[Sydneysider]

Thank you for your informative reply Marine Reflections,

My boat is 2 and a half years old and was out of shrink-wrap to me, so most of the imperfections have developed in my ownership.
I use a rotary buffer with wool heads, I have four, so it will give me 8 surfaces, I change them when needed clogged dirty ect. What different head is needed for the finer polish?
I will try your tip for identifying the imperfections, as I have previously stood on the dock facing the sun and with moving slightly tried to pick them up and referencing them against a fitting on the boat.
I have done a few sections on the bow without the finer polish and see a brilliant shine whatever way I look at it but these sections are narrower and less assessable to sun angle(I think), but next time probably do the flybrige cowling and sides with the finer polish after the rubbing compound, topped off with wax. I use the meguiars flag ship wax, I find this gives a good even finish. I read a lot now are going to the PTEF types of wax, but I tried it and found that it streaked, have you found this?
A lot this way recommend the top gear range of products, they have a rubbing compound and wax and are a lot cheaper than the 3m products, have you tried these?
Regards Scott

 

[Marine Reflections]

There are millions of combinations, but the general consensus is to use the finer pads with the finer grade polishes.

If you have four double sided wool pads, they are generally white for compounding and yellow for polishing, but it is the softness of the wool that makes the difference so may differ colour wise with your brand of pad.

Products, I just try to use what I know works, 3M Marine just works for me as a complete range, but that doesn't mean it is right for everybody, you have to work with what's right for you.
Compare them as you may find different products suit your techniques better.

Products are the supporting role to good tools, good prep and technique.

Polishing creates finish not wax. Wax just preserves the finish you have created by the polishing stages. All manufacturers exploit confusion and steer consumers away from simplicity with too much choice.

When it comes to wax, a thin layer of decent Carnauba based paste wax is ideal, but again some prefer a more permanent sealer type, others prefer products with some cleaning element to them, it's a circumstantial preference really and there is an awful lot of things to go through that would determine which was best for you.