claymore
Well-Known Member
Are we gardening amongst the white roses at present?
Electric Anchor Windlass
- Thread starter R32Stbrigid
- Start date
longjohnsadler
Well-Known Member
Oops no I meant on tv.
Off along the Sligo and Mayo coast next week. Ahem testing the windlass (er to get back on thread)...
Off along the Sligo and Mayo coast next week. Ahem testing the windlass (er to get back on thread)...
tugboat
Well-Known Member
9 tonne steel cutter, 35kg Bruce, Lofrans Airon.
Saguday
Well-Known Member
10 tonne cutter, 35lb CQR (+ 20kg Bruce) and 200ft chain, have a Muir Atlantic 1000 (vertical) which seems to do the job so far.
SWMBO made it a condition of boat purchase that it have a suitably butch windlass...
Cheers
Neil
SWMBO made it a condition of boat purchase that it have a suitably butch windlass...
Cheers
Neil
R32Stbrigid
Well-Known Member
thanks to you all for your replies. I was already favouring a 1000w Lofrans - You have all made my mind up!
Cheers
Andrew
Cheers
Andrew
Sans Bateau
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I was already favouring a 1000w Lofrans - You have all made my mind up!
[/ QUOTE ]
Meet you at SIBS, we'll do a deal with a supplier, must be able to get a better price for two of them! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I was already favouring a 1000w Lofrans - You have all made my mind up!
[/ QUOTE ]
Meet you at SIBS, we'll do a deal with a supplier, must be able to get a better price for two of them! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Goldie
Well-Known Member
Hi Bernard,
We were advised to use the engine battery for the windlass on the grounds that the engine is usually running when the windlass is required anyway. The alternative would have been a separate battery forward which would have enabled much smaller cables to be used for charging it, and then the big cables over a short run to the windlass. The cable run is from the battery bank under the quarterberth - behind the panel outboard of the chart table - down through the locker under the chart table - and at cabin sole level under the starboard settee berth - through hanging the lockers - under the starboard side of the V berth into the forward underbunk loker where the control box is situated - into the chain locker and up to the windlass. It's totally unobtrusive and invisible (unless you really look for it) even when using the lockers.
The windlass is installed in the anchor well on the existing plinth, with a wander lead type handswitch. I also installed a switch in the cockpit which works really well as SWMBO raise the anchor from the helm whilst I have hands free to blast the muck off with the deckwash.
I keep checking the yahoo! group but it's all gone awfully quiet Obviously no takers from the owners we tried to contact!
If any other forumites know Biscay 36 owners, please tell tham that the site exists and encourage them to register.
We were advised to use the engine battery for the windlass on the grounds that the engine is usually running when the windlass is required anyway. The alternative would have been a separate battery forward which would have enabled much smaller cables to be used for charging it, and then the big cables over a short run to the windlass. The cable run is from the battery bank under the quarterberth - behind the panel outboard of the chart table - down through the locker under the chart table - and at cabin sole level under the starboard settee berth - through hanging the lockers - under the starboard side of the V berth into the forward underbunk loker where the control box is situated - into the chain locker and up to the windlass. It's totally unobtrusive and invisible (unless you really look for it) even when using the lockers.
The windlass is installed in the anchor well on the existing plinth, with a wander lead type handswitch. I also installed a switch in the cockpit which works really well as SWMBO raise the anchor from the helm whilst I have hands free to blast the muck off with the deckwash.
I keep checking the yahoo! group but it's all gone awfully quiet Obviously no takers from the owners we tried to contact!
If any other forumites know Biscay 36 owners, please tell tham that the site exists and encourage them to register.
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
Well, must say this thread looks like bad news for all electrickery windlass manufacturers whose name is not Loffrans!
ChrisE
Well-Known Member
Looks like a 1200W Lofrans for us, thanks all.
Now does anyone have ideas on how to raise the money to pay for this along with the new mainsail and boom, repairs to the fridge and roller reefing system, gelcoat touch up, headlining replacement, self tailers .......................................
Need I go on?
Now does anyone have ideas on how to raise the money to pay for this along with the new mainsail and boom, repairs to the fridge and roller reefing system, gelcoat touch up, headlining replacement, self tailers .......................................
Need I go on?
tugboat
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Looks like a 1200W Lofrans for us, thanks all.
Now does anyone have ideas on how to raise the money to pay for this along with the new mainsail and boom, repairs to the fridge and roller reefing system, gelcoat touch up, headlining replacement, self tailers .......................................
Need I go on?
[/ QUOTE ]
Well, you need a small initial outlay for a harmonica, then you learn to play it, then you stand on street corners! 'Course, if you can't be bothered with that you could always become a rentboy! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Looks like a 1200W Lofrans for us, thanks all.
Now does anyone have ideas on how to raise the money to pay for this along with the new mainsail and boom, repairs to the fridge and roller reefing system, gelcoat touch up, headlining replacement, self tailers .......................................
Need I go on?
[/ QUOTE ]
Well, you need a small initial outlay for a harmonica, then you learn to play it, then you stand on street corners! 'Course, if you can't be bothered with that you could always become a rentboy! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Sans Bateau
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Now does anyone have ideas on how to raise the money to pay for this along with the new mainsail and boom, repairs to the fridge and roller reefing system, gelcoat touch up, headlining replacement, self tailers .......................................
[/ QUOTE ]
Get off the forum and start earning some money! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Now does anyone have ideas on how to raise the money to pay for this along with the new mainsail and boom, repairs to the fridge and roller reefing system, gelcoat touch up, headlining replacement, self tailers .......................................
[/ QUOTE ]
Get off the forum and start earning some money! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
ChrisE
Well-Known Member
Sorry, omitted the word 'sensible' in front of 'ideas' /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
DeeGee
Well-Known Member
My Rustler 36 is about same as Biscay 36, and I have a SimpsonLawrence Sprint 1500. It is 1000W, 1500 lbs max pull. 72ft/min at working load of 100lbs. It certainly does the job. However... /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
I would fit a horizontal windlass if I were doing it again, as the Sprint is vertical and is virtually useless in manual mode - if it ever fails at a critical moment (shipping rather than casting), I will probably be faced with either hauling masses of chain up onto the deck or casting it off with a buoy. The horizontal types seem to have far better manual fall-back for failure.
I would fit a horizontal windlass if I were doing it again, as the Sprint is vertical and is virtually useless in manual mode - if it ever fails at a critical moment (shipping rather than casting), I will probably be faced with either hauling masses of chain up onto the deck or casting it off with a buoy. The horizontal types seem to have far better manual fall-back for failure.
tugboat
Well-Known Member
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
GMac
Well-Known Member
Size for size a Maxwell will out pull all mainstream winches, this is well proven. BUT all mainstream winches should be more than capable of doing the job anyway.
Dealing in winches, the gear on them and having been involved with testing new ones with a couple of manufactuers I can say all are OK. We get info from the manufacturers, the boat builders and the users which is damn interesting.
A couple of things we have found over the years:
DON'T believe the manufacturers published loads or speeds, most do not achive them. There is only one we know of that does, actually exceeds them.
The wiring is very very very important. Don't shortcut here.
A LOT of the manufacturers published rope sizing does not actually work that well (applies to Auto R2C winches only).
The following list has been compiled from user comments over many years:
Most problems - Simpson Lawrance
Most reliable - Lofrans and Maxwell equal.
Easiest to fit gear to - Lofrans, Maxwell, Quick and Lewmar is finally getting it togeather.
Most grizzles - S/L and Muir
Happiest users - Maxwell closely followed by Lofrans
Hardest Auto R2C to get working well - S/L, older Lewmar and Muir.
My personal preferances:
Auto Rope to Chain - Maxwell then Lofrans then Quick
Chain only - Anyone except S/L
Capstan - anyones.
On a 32fter I'd go with a Auto Rope to Chain using a Maxwell Freedom 800 or a Lofrans Project 1000 (maybe a X2). Running 8mm CALIBRATED CHAIN (very important) spliced to a good 14mm Octiplait. Try the published 16mm if you like but the 14mm does actually work a lot better.
I'm picking a Vertical winch to keep as much deck space as possible.
At least 2 of the manufacturers mentioned here say warrentee is void if using chinese or un-calibrated chain.
Happy shopping
Dealing in winches, the gear on them and having been involved with testing new ones with a couple of manufactuers I can say all are OK. We get info from the manufacturers, the boat builders and the users which is damn interesting.
A couple of things we have found over the years:
DON'T believe the manufacturers published loads or speeds, most do not achive them. There is only one we know of that does, actually exceeds them.
The wiring is very very very important. Don't shortcut here.
A LOT of the manufacturers published rope sizing does not actually work that well (applies to Auto R2C winches only).
The following list has been compiled from user comments over many years:
Most problems - Simpson Lawrance
Most reliable - Lofrans and Maxwell equal.
Easiest to fit gear to - Lofrans, Maxwell, Quick and Lewmar is finally getting it togeather.
Most grizzles - S/L and Muir
Happiest users - Maxwell closely followed by Lofrans
Hardest Auto R2C to get working well - S/L, older Lewmar and Muir.
My personal preferances:
Auto Rope to Chain - Maxwell then Lofrans then Quick
Chain only - Anyone except S/L
Capstan - anyones.
On a 32fter I'd go with a Auto Rope to Chain using a Maxwell Freedom 800 or a Lofrans Project 1000 (maybe a X2). Running 8mm CALIBRATED CHAIN (very important) spliced to a good 14mm Octiplait. Try the published 16mm if you like but the 14mm does actually work a lot better.
I'm picking a Vertical winch to keep as much deck space as possible.
At least 2 of the manufacturers mentioned here say warrentee is void if using chinese or un-calibrated chain.
Happy shopping
ChrisE
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the additonal info.
Chris
Chris
geronimo
Active Member
I have used electric windlasses for many years but never knew that there is some maintenance to be done.
How does one "run the chain out on the clutch" slowly and carefully.
(Sorry I have a Lofrans as well)
Thanks for advice and help
How does one "run the chain out on the clutch" slowly and carefully.
(Sorry I have a Lofrans as well)
Thanks for advice and help
GMac
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I have used electric windlasses for many years but never knew that there is some maintenance to be done.
[/ QUOTE ]
Once a year completely undo the gizzmo where the emergency handle goes in and the top should lift off. Give a good wash to get all the sand and stuff out of the corners. Give the cones (2 or sometimes only 1 cone shaped bit that fit in against the gypsy itself, this is the clutch bit) a clean and them a good but small wipe with a good high pressure grease. This will stop the cones grabbing in the gypsy. Reassemble and all should be good. This applies to most if not all winches.
As you will be doing this on your boat Murphys Law says any small bits will immediatly head for the open sea so watch the bits don't go splash on you.
The process varies a little between winches but it is very similar.
It is not as hard to do as most think but very well worth the 1/2 an hour or so to get best performance and longer life.
[ QUOTE ]
How does one "run the chain out on the clutch" slowly and carefully.
[/ QUOTE ]
Just undo the clutch using the emergency handle thing A LITTLE BIT. This takes the pressure off the cones inside (the clutch) and will allow the rode to run out by itself. When you have it all out do up the clutch again. DO NOT undo it a lot with all chain and let it run uncontrolled, work the handle a bit to increase or decrease pressure to get a nice speed. All chain could be off like the bomb squad in Heathrow and can be very very hard to stop if you just let it go. A controlled decent is what you're after.
I have used electric windlasses for many years but never knew that there is some maintenance to be done.
[/ QUOTE ]
Once a year completely undo the gizzmo where the emergency handle goes in and the top should lift off. Give a good wash to get all the sand and stuff out of the corners. Give the cones (2 or sometimes only 1 cone shaped bit that fit in against the gypsy itself, this is the clutch bit) a clean and them a good but small wipe with a good high pressure grease. This will stop the cones grabbing in the gypsy. Reassemble and all should be good. This applies to most if not all winches.
As you will be doing this on your boat Murphys Law says any small bits will immediatly head for the open sea so watch the bits don't go splash on you.
The process varies a little between winches but it is very similar.
It is not as hard to do as most think but very well worth the 1/2 an hour or so to get best performance and longer life.
[ QUOTE ]
How does one "run the chain out on the clutch" slowly and carefully.
[/ QUOTE ]
Just undo the clutch using the emergency handle thing A LITTLE BIT. This takes the pressure off the cones inside (the clutch) and will allow the rode to run out by itself. When you have it all out do up the clutch again. DO NOT undo it a lot with all chain and let it run uncontrolled, work the handle a bit to increase or decrease pressure to get a nice speed. All chain could be off like the bomb squad in Heathrow and can be very very hard to stop if you just let it go. A controlled decent is what you're after.
geronimo
Active Member
Thank you, sounds like good advice.