Electric Anchor Windlass?

Well that is a confirmation that painting a meter of chain just before the anchor will work. So that is what I will do.
Well the last colour I used was white and seemed to show up the best
Then red white red in the middle
then red at the end so I know when to stop at its fullest length....it gets too confusing if you start tagging it every ten mtrs or so,,,,well for me anyway
 
Thanks for the info guys......some a little off-thread and some a tad overkill for my dinky little boat! I have looked at all suggested and drawn up a short list, current top-runner is the Maxwell RC10-8.......anyone got one? Maxwell have been making windlasses for 25 years they claim, but are they any good???
 
Thanks for the info guys......some a little off-thread and some a tad overkill for my dinky little boat! I have looked at all suggested and drawn up a short list, current top-runner is the Maxwell RC10-8.......anyone got one? Maxwell have been making windlasses for 25 years they claim, but are they any good???

See post #13. Superb windlass. When YM did their comparison of pretty much all the ones available the Maxwell came out as technically the best but second because it was more expensive. Our first one was a Freedom, still performing well for its new owner, who told me he is delighted with it. We replaced it with the RC10 with a capstan. I am constantly amazed at its power.
 
Thanks Vyv, I had noted your original post! A solo, one-legged yottie two boats along from me also has a Maxwell (12?) and he swears by it. In my present location, which has only a small number of boats moored, there are a few Lofrans but the majority are Muir - understandable as most of the boats here are from Oz. I have taken the plunge and ordered the RC10-8. Thanks to all again.
 
Thanks Vyv, I had noted your original post! A solo, one-legged yottie two boats along from me also has a Maxwell (12?) and he swears by it. In my present location, which has only a small number of boats moored, there are a few Lofrans but the majority are Muir - understandable as most of the boats here are from Oz. I have taken the plunge and ordered the RC10-8. Thanks to all again.

We were much taken with the Muir, looked like an excellent design in all the right materials. At the time it was considerably more expensive than the Maxwell, which was already rather more than the European alternatives. Don't regret buying the Maxwell at all, although the very original one had a design fault - water in the cavity above the gearbox could not drain away, causing severe corrosion. I replaced ours with the later version that had drain ports. The RC10 has them.
 
I always think that this guy speaks a lot of sense (apart from the CQR....)

Ground Tackle

45-pound CQR on 300 feet of 3/8” chain. Second 300-foot rope rode, stored in bow. 25-pound Danforth stern anchor. 75-pound Danforth storm anchor. Additional 300-feet of rope rode stored aft. 450-feet of polypropylene for additional shore lines in the deep south.

Electric anchor windlass is a Muir Cheetah, built in Tasmania. The windlass is run by a solenoid switch, which is wired to the cockpit at well as the foredeck. This is a KEY SAFETY FEATURE and I consider in a necessity. The ability to bring the anchor up quickly, and do so from the cockpit while at the helm, can save the boat. At least once I have been alone and had to do just this as Condesa was about to go on the rocks after dragging anchor.


http://www.condesa.org/about-my-boat/
 
A cautionary word about "chain wrap".
Check the geometry of the bow roller to the windlass and down to the chain locker very carefully to ensure that you get a sufficient number of links wrapped round the capstan. If the windlass is deck mounted then its probably OK but some windlasses when mounted in a locker do not engage a sufficient number of chain links and you can get the dreaded "chain jump."

PS I can recommend the Lofrans remote wireless control but you must remember to change the internal battery (PP9) at the beginning of each season
 
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I always think that this guy speaks a lot of sense (apart from the CQR....)

Ground Tackle

45-pound CQR on 300 feet of 3/8” chain. Second 300-foot rope rode, stored in bow. 25-pound Danforth stern anchor. 75-pound Danforth storm anchor. Additional 300-feet of rope rode stored aft. 450-feet of polypropylene for additional shore lines in the deep south.

Electric anchor windlass is a Muir Cheetah, built in Tasmania. The windlass is run by a solenoid switch, which is wired to the cockpit at well as the foredeck. This is a KEY SAFETY FEATURE and I consider in a necessity. The ability to bring the anchor up quickly, and do so from the cockpit while at the helm, can save the boat. At least once I have been alone and had to do just this as Condesa was about to go on the rocks after dragging anchor.


http://www.condesa.org/about-my-boat/

Now why do you make such an unkind comment about a CQR?
Have you ever owned or used one?
Or are you one with hoi polloi?

He speaks some sense, but why would anyone want a polypropylene warp?
Of course, unless your chain self-stows, your electric winch is useless - when you're single-handed.
 
He speaks some sense, but why would anyone want a polypropylene warp?

I carry 100 metres of polypropylene warp. When I row ashore with a line to attach to a rock or tree I want one that floats rather than dragging along the bottom where it fouls every obstruction. It replaced a doublebraid polyester warp, nice stuff but a nuisance when it sank.
 
Now why do you make such an unkind comment about a CQR?
.

Where you see comparative tests where it was the most expensive and had the worst holding of all the anchors tested. When you read that on a winshift it often has problems resetting.

No I haven't owned one but I do respect the opinions of experts who have used them.

I haven't tried a hoi polloi. What sort of performance has it?

PS You will note that the author said that the remote switch helped save him when he (with his CQR....) dragged!
 
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