Eberspatcher wiring problem

[VicMallows]

Why is it called a Rheostat?

It always intrigues me why the adjustable temperature control on some Eberspachers is always referred to as a 'RHEOSTAT'. In all other contexts it would be simply called a 'variable resistor' ... maybe even a 'potentiometer'.

But a 'RHEOSTAT' instantly conjures up the image of a really hefty device, probably made of ceramic, capable of carrying many amps.

(I guess it's just come about in the translation from German, and has somehow stuck).

Vic

 

[brians]

I had the same problem with a brand new D2 last year. The grey wire did not exist in the loom but it is essential for thermostat to work. I put in a new wire between the cabin thermostat and the heater and it works fine.

 

[Heckler]

I'm only asking for advice thats all. Nevermind

Incidently the your link doesnot refect the wiring for the room stat that I have

The eber diags are german spec, quite easy once you get your head around it, you need a modicum of electrical knowledge to understand it. The fitting in trucks bit is a red herring, haydude sounds like the eber man who complained about the article i wrote in PBO
The d1lc is particularly easy to play with, but what i will say is that it is pretty primitive too. It doesnt like cycling on temp control (in my experience) Better to leave it on the rheostat controller and let the in body temp thing control it. Feed the heating air in from the heated area, that way it reacts to the internal temp and uses less fuel (it is heating already warmed air) In my previous 35 ft boat, the d1lc would heat it up with one outlet to the saloon and the intake from one of the aft cabins, no need for a themostat, just turn it down a notch, not very often if my swmbo was on board!
It never would run slower than one notch down and anecdotal evidence suggests the same.
Basically why bother messing with it! especially if you cant read the diagrams (sorry!)
Stu

 

[rob2]

I hope the room stat is compatible, the Eberspacher one appears to be simply a temperature sensitive resistor and many more complex systems use switches and circuitry which may not be suitable. As already mentioned, there is a temperature sensor already in the intake of the heater which will control the heater if the heating air is taken from within the cabin as a recirculating system, otherwise it will only measure the outside air temperature and the heater will run full blast or until the locker in which the heater is mounted warms up.

Another word of warning is that several posts have talked about the D1LC, which strictly speaking is the model with a remote mounted controller and maximum output of 1.8kW. The other unit often so described is the D1LC compact (D1LCc) which has the controller mounted internally above the motor just like the current units and has a maximum output of 2.2kW. Just be sure which you have before downloading the manual or the wiring is likely to get confusing! Apart from anything else, the id label will show the max output as 1800W (D1LC) or 2200W (D1LCc).

Rob.