Eberspacher - kaput

jerrytug said:
It is a baffling mystery to me why people put up with all this absurd nonsense!

Why in the name of Christ does burning diesel in a box require a computer, of all things?

Diesel hot air blowers didn't used to have ECU's, but now you can't buy one without a computer.

If some enterprising firm started making the old analogue versions, they would sell thousands.

Ludicrous, ECU's don't belong on such a vital piece of kit, I would deep six it personally.
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I'm genuinely curious, being the owner of a Webasto that has had a new ECU.
Were non electronic blowers available? How did they control the pump, igniter, fan , flame detector etc and then control the shut down sequence?
 
Cardo said:
Ok, I've taken the Eber out and run all the tests I could find. Sensors check out ok, glow plug, too. Blower runs when 12v directly applied to it.

So, the facts I have:
When unit is turned on from the controller, nothing at all happens.
Cold air blower mode does not work, either.
Power reaches the unit.
Controller applies 12v to yellow wire when turned on.
Controller gives error code 64 - flame sensor open circuit
Multi meter gives acceptable returns for flame sensor and over heat sensor.
Fan runs when 12v directly applied.

Don't know what else to test! Mrs has authorised purchase of a replacement ECU. But seeing as it's Sunday, there's no rush to order. So, can anyone think of any further tests to try out before I order a new one?

On a further note, this page lists some possible reasons for ECU failures:
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk/ECU_Failures.html
Aside from random component failure, the only cause on there that may possibly be related is battery condition. We have 4x 125Ah domestic batteries. Even though the batteries are only 2 to 3 years old, I think they're in pretty naff condition. I wouldn't be surprised if capacity is half what it should be, maybe even less. Voltages check out ok and they don't noticeably self discharge, but I'd imagine a load test would not be pretty. We're currently connected to shore power as we're parked up for the winter. We have a 30 amp Mastervolt charger keeping things going. Should I be worried about replacing the ECU with the batteries as they are? Last thing I'd want to do is spend £230 on a new ECU only for it to fail within weeks due to potentially knackered batteries.
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One other thing, I noticed when doing work on a D2 that they will work with the sensor disconnected. I said that in PBO, the guy from Eber who gave me a hard time said I was irresponsible for saying that! (my view, it is acceptable doing tests on the bench)
So try unplugging the sensor from the ECU to see if you get the same fault before lashing out
S
 
jerrytug said:
It is a baffling mystery to me why people put up with all this absurd nonsense!

Why in the name of Christ does burning diesel in a box require a computer, of all things?

Diesel hot air blowers didn't used to have ECU's, but now you can't buy one without a computer.

If some enterprising firm started making the old analogue versions, they would sell thousands.

Ludicrous, ECU's don't belong on such a vital piece of kit, I would deep six it personally.
Click to expand...
I seriously looked at a tick tick timer from Maplins to drive the pump, a direct switch for the fan and a direct switch for the glo plug.
If you are confident in your abilities, switch on the fan and glow plug and then the pump, it should then start, once it is self flaming switch the glow plug off. It would only run on full chat, however when I use mine that is all it does! However there are no safeguards, overheat none, ignited or not, none. Your responsibilty!
S
 
foeu said:
I'm genuinely curious, being the owner of a Webasto that has had a new ECU.
Were non electronic blowers available? How did they control the pump, igniter, fan , flame detector etc and then control the shut down sequence?
Click to expand...

I have a 1970's Webasto HL3003-41- the starting sequence is contolled by a clockwork timer. It has a flame sensor which shuts off if no flame.

It has a 2 speed fan and a fuel pump, that's it!

Made in Bavaria of metal, looks like it came out if a Panzer.
Works well on diesel or paraffin.


It takes a few amps on start up for the heater plug (which is a common truck part btw) and the fan, once running, uses a little more current than the new models, but not much more.
I will never sell it.

£100 on ebay, they fetch good prices unsurprisingly.
 
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skipper_stu said:
One other thing, I noticed when doing work on a D2 that they will work with the sensor disconnected. I said that in PBO, the guy from Eber who gave me a hard time said I was irresponsible for saying that! (my view, it is acceptable doing tests on the bench)
So try unplugging the sensor from the ECU to see if you get the same fault before lashing out
S
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Thanks for the tip. Just tested it out with the green plug disconnected. Same as before, and still gives the 64 error. Guess that pretty much confirms it!
 
jerrytug said:
It is a baffling mystery to me why people put up with all this absurd nonsense!

Why in the name of Christ does burning diesel in a box require a computer, of all things?

Diesel hot air blowers didn't used to have ECU's, but now you can't buy one without a computer.

If some enterprising firm started making the old analogue versions, they would sell thousands.

Ludicrous, ECU's don't belong on such a vital piece of kit, I would deep six it personally.
Click to expand...

They have always had had an Electronic Control Unit, simple analogue ones but control units nonetheless, Mikuni still use an analogue ECU. I guess you could just put some diesel in a box and set fire to it with no overheat or dosing control, why not give it a try, not near me though please. The analogue ones were/are no less troublesome by the way.
 
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I suppose you could emulate an ECU using plugin timers and relays but it would be more vulnerable to bad connections and hence unreliable. As well as considerably more bulky and expensive.
You do need some means of control for a diesel fired furnace.
if i were the op, i would take up pcatterall's offer of a check up.
 
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I checked with marina peeps and nobody else around had a D2, so with the evidence at hand decided the likely culprit was the ECU. The vendor had a 14 day return policy, so I could return this if it turned out not to be the fault.

It was the ECU.

Swapped in the new one, connected it up and vroooom up it fired. Curiously, the pump is a fair bit quieter now? Before, the pump made a very blatant TICK TICK TICK as it went along, however now it's a much milder tick tick tick, which is barely noticeable. I'm guessing they've made changes to the timings/intensities of the electrical pulses driving the pump in the newer ECU.
 
ghostlymoron said:
Nice and toastie again then. How old was the old ECU?
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Indeed, and far cheaper than running the electric heaters!

The old ECU? Well, we've had the boat for 3 years, and the previous owner had her for 8 years, and I'm pretty certain the Eber was already fitted when he got her. So, a minimum of 11 years old. It's definitely the older style ECU. The new one says "Hella" on it and has some kind of sensor mounted on the side that the old one doesn't have.
 
David2452 said:
Pedant mode:

Using an average Ebay price of £230 for a new D2 ECU, ÷ 11 years = £20.90 per year or £1.74 per month.
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Plus diesel and (negligible) power costs.
Where we are, living aboard with metered electric, the Eber is a _lot_ cheaper than using electric heaters. Even with the ECU replacement (at £236), I reckon we'll still easily be quids in.
 
Cardo said:
I checked with marina peeps and nobody else around had a D2, so with the evidence at hand decided the likely culprit was the ECU. The vendor had a 14 day return policy, so I could return this if it turned out not to be the fault.

It was the ECU.

Swapped in the new one, connected it up and vroooom up it fired. Curiously, the pump is a fair bit quieter now? Before, the pump made a very blatant TICK TICK TICK as it went along, however now it's a much milder tick tick tick, which is barely noticeable. I'm guessing they've made changes to the timings/intensities of the electrical pulses driving the pump in the newer ECU.
Click to expand...

Is the vendor offering the 14 day returns o that you can test your heater?
 
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