Eberspacher - kaput

Cardo

Cardo

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www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
The blasted thing is a right nuisance!

So having worked fine for the last few days, today it's decided not to play ball. When I turn it on at the controller, the light comes on as usual, but now the heater does absolutely nothing. I'm used to it trying to start and failing, but now it shows no signs of life.

I have the 801 controller, so have been able to look up the fault code. New one this time, fault 64. According to the service manual, this is an open circuit on the flame sensor. There's some instructions online which explain how to check whether this is working properly. It's a bit late to be taking it apart now, so I'll have to deal with it tomorrow.

Replacement flame sensors are about £50.

With the basic info I have here, is it likely the flame sensor has died on me?

If it has died, I presume it's worth replacing the part rather than drop kicking the blasted unit into the drink?
 
Could be the sensor, or could just be dodgy connection on it. Eberspachers are generally pretty reliable if they're looked after.
 
Contact Butlertechnic, they will be able to help and they are to to expensive for parts/replacement units, I had a lot of help from them before deciding to reclace the whole darned unit. Sorry can't seem to be able to find their Web address, but just Google it.
 
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Ok, I've now had a chance to fettle with the beastie. Luckily, I could just about access it in situ. Sticking the multimeter over the green plug as per
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk/Eberspacher_Faults_2.html
comes back with 1077 ohms, which seems to be well within the range they give.

I've checked for power and there's plenty of that, and there's voltage on the yellow wire when it's meant to be turned on.

If it makes any difference, it won't go onto blower mode, either. I'm getting naff all from it.

The only thing I am getting is the fault code 64. I've reset it it and it keeps coming up with this same code.

Thoughts??
 
Chatting to someone here at the marina, they suggested it might be the blower motor, as it won't come on at all, even on cold air mode. I've put the multimeter over that and it registered as 0.6 ohms, which is around the 0.5 ohms mark the above referenced website mentions. Next thing will be to put a 12v supply onto the blower to see if it will spin.
Though, if it is the blower, why isn't that coming up as the fault?
 
Hi what model is the heater? If it is a d2/4 airtronic model does it have the early style Ecu the simple way to tell is if the wiring loom is covered with black sleeving(early type) or black fibre tape (later type).
If the Ecu is the early type and and the sensors and motor etc check out ok then then it will be very likely the Ecu will be shot as the early ones were very poor.
 
gery w said:
Hi what model is the heater? If it is a d2/4 airtronic model does it have the early style Ecu the simple way to tell is if the wiring loom is covered with black sleeving(early type) or black fibre tape (later type).
If the Ecu is the early type and and the sensors and motor etc check out ok then then it will be very likely the Ecu will be shot as the early ones were very poor.
Click to expand...

It's a D2, forgot to mention that!
Sleeving or fibre tape? Hmm, I'll have to take a look when I dismantle it tomorrow. The heater's probably a good 10 years old at least, would that help?

I was hoping it won't be the ECU, that's the most expensive bit to replace!
 
Cardo said:
Just had a look as it's easy to see. I think it's the older style, with a plasticcy sheath much like regular cable insulation.
Click to expand...

If it's the ECU would it not show that instead of fault 64 ? These Ebers are a PITA .... Every time I turn mine on I have my fingers crossed !!:)
 
if you have followed the fault finding guides and everything checks out with the multimeter and checked all connections then it will be the ecu sometimes when they fail they through up some rogue fault codes you can reset most with the 801 controller.
unfortunately there is no easy way to determine a faulty ecu except to try it in a known good heater. However I have replaced plenty of the early type ecu's they are well known for failure but have never had to replace a later type they are now made by Hella and seem to cope just fine. I think the last one I replaced cost £215 a couple of months ago
 
Ok, I've taken the Eber out and run all the tests I could find. Sensors check out ok, glow plug, too. Blower runs when 12v directly applied to it.

So, the facts I have:
When unit is turned on from the controller, nothing at all happens.
Cold air blower mode does not work, either.
Power reaches the unit.
Controller applies 12v to yellow wire when turned on.
Controller gives error code 64 - flame sensor open circuit
Multi meter gives acceptable returns for flame sensor and over heat sensor.
Fan runs when 12v directly applied.

Don't know what else to test! Mrs has authorised purchase of a replacement ECU. But seeing as it's Sunday, there's no rush to order. So, can anyone think of any further tests to try out before I order a new one?

On a further note, this page lists some possible reasons for ECU failures:
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk/ECU_Failures.html
Aside from random component failure, the only cause on there that may possibly be related is battery condition. We have 4x 125Ah domestic batteries. Even though the batteries are only 2 to 3 years old, I think they're in pretty naff condition. I wouldn't be surprised if capacity is half what it should be, maybe even less. Voltages check out ok and they don't noticeably self discharge, but I'd imagine a load test would not be pretty. We're currently connected to shore power as we're parked up for the winter. We have a 30 amp Mastervolt charger keeping things going. Should I be worried about replacing the ECU with the batteries as they are? Last thing I'd want to do is spend £230 on a new ECU only for it to fail within weeks due to potentially knackered batteries.
 
Try measuring the battery voltage when starting eber.
I like ebers, haven't got one now though. In the three years I had it, I had a new ECU and a new programmer. (Not sure either was necessary - diagnosed by dealer). They certainly chuck out some heat when they're working. I could switch mine on without getting out of bunk.
 
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It is a baffling mystery to me why people put up with all this absurd nonsense!

Why in the name of Christ does burning diesel in a box require a computer, of all things?

Diesel hot air blowers didn't used to have ECU's, but now you can't buy one without a computer.

If some enterprising firm started making the old analogue versions, they would sell thousands.

Ludicrous, ECU's don't belong on such a vital piece of kit, I would deep six it personally.
 
jerrytug said:
It is a baffling mystery to me why people put up with all this absurd nonsense!

Why in the name of Christ does burning diesel in a box require a computer, of all things?

Diesel hot air blowers didn't used to have ECU's, but now you can't buy one without a computer.

If some enterprising firm started making the old analogue versions, they would sell thousands.

Ludicrous, ECU's don't belong on such a vital piece of kit, I would deep six it personally.
Click to expand...

there is another way lads

of course far too dangerous for normal people and proven to be completely innefective


 
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