Eberspacher installation in Jeanneau 36i

Not specific to this boat but keep the duct runs as straight as possible and if you have the opportunity to box the insulated ducting in where it passes through the cockpit locker it will save you money in the long run.
This because the ducting wont get damaged and you'll get much more heat at the outlets.
I had this on my first boat and regret I don't have it now
 
I installed a Webasto (very like an Eber) in our 36i
Assuming you have the one aft and one fore cabin version ..
First decide which side of the boat to install the burner. If you go for the starboard side check VERY carefully how you will get the heating duct around the fridge. On our boat the pre-installed duct went only partway around the fridge, so if we had used it we would have ended up heating the back of the fridge and not a lot else. As a result we had to put the heater in the aft end of the huge port side rear locker (aft of the shower compartment) and take the ducting behind the heads, the nav station and down to the front end of the port side of the saloon.
Avoid bends. Insulate the ducting. Keep it very simple. Fit the main unit so that you can remove it easily for repair. It took me about a week to do it all.
Good luck.
 
My 36i has the Webasto mounted on the fwd bulkhead of the stbd aft cockpit locker. Not recommended; unheated air is drawn in and ducting very vulnerable. I would also avoid fuel take off from tank as I had a difficult to solve leak from my joint in the polypropylene. A T- piece in the fueline is a better option if you trust yourself to manage fuel levels. TBH, after webasto and eber in 2 motorhomes and 2 boats I wouldn't bother fitting blown air diesel. It gobbles amps on startup, always seems to smell of derv and costs a lot. The concept was for truck cabs with long daily charging regimes. Bllown air gas is a much better option if you must have heating at all off grid, much lighter on the battts.

edit; should be port locker, not stbd.
 
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Quiddle said:
My 36i has the Webasto mounted on the fwd bulkhead of the stbd aft cockpit locker. Not recommended; unheated air is drawn in and ducting very vulnerable. I would also avoid fuel take off from tank as I had a difficult to solve leak from my joint in the polypropylene. A T- piece in the fueline is a better option if you trust yourself to manage fuel levels. TBH, after webasto and eber in 2 motorhomes and 2 boats I wouldn't bother fitting blown air diesel. It gobbles amps on startup, always seems to smell of derv and costs a lot. The concept was for truck cabs with long daily charging regimes. Bllown air gas is a much better option if you must have heating at all off grid, much lighter on the battts.
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I also had persistent leakage trouble with the standard Eberspacher fuel takeoff fitted into the top of the quite flimsy black plastic fuel tank of a Jeanneau 35.

My Eberspacher D4 is mounted in the transom space behind the aft-of the heads long narrow interior locker (single aft cabin model), and it's a real bitch job to get access for repairs unless you are small and very flexible. Apart from the fuel leaks, that I eventually seem to have fixed, the D4 and its controls have needed several very expensive repairs totalling over £1000 in 8 years. If buying new I'd look at blown-air gas heaters - seems much less to go wrong.

I used to be manic about not having gas on board, used paraffin for cooking, but now just use gas (carefully) and have a gas detector.
 
pampas said:
10-15 Amps whilst starting and 2.5/3 Amps when heating is in my book not gobbling up power. Just an observation.
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Indeed, and the 10-15 (actually lower on modern units) is for a few seconds only and then the fans of gas or diesel heaters of similar outputs consume exactly the same. A word on poly tanks, do not even try with the dip tube meant for metal ones it will always leak, there is a correct and leak proof way to do it, diesel smells and leaks are always due to a poor install or an indicator of service required.
 
AE=David2452;4928571]Indeed, and the 10-15 (actually lower on modern units) is for a few seconds only and then the fans of gas or diesel heaters of similar outputs consume exactly the same. A word on poly tanks, do not even try with the dip tube meant for metal ones it will always leak, there is a correct and leak proof way to do it, diesel smells and leaks are always due to a poor install or an indicator of service required.[/QUOTE]

My first motorhome had a perfectly good radiant gas heater using zero amps. That is why I consider ebers/ webasto profligate with 'leccy. IME it is more like 5 mins than 5 secs of 10+ amps.
What is the secret of fuel tske off from poly tanks? I resorted to lashings of gasket sealant and 2mm cork gasket.
All have been installed professionally, BTW.
 
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Quiddle said:
IME it is more like 5 mins than 5 secs of 10+ amps.
What is the secret of fuel tske off from poly tanks? I resorted to lashings of gasket sealant and 2mm cork gasket.
All have been installed professionally, BTW.
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I run these things on my test bench on an almost daily basis with a power supply and I read and time the current, it is certainly not five minutes but around 5 seconds at high amps, dropping to about 5 to 8 for 60 seconds then it shuts off the power to the pin and maintains a self burn (assuming the flame sensor says its OK to do so)
No secret to doing poly tanks, I have tried all sorts of remedies when customers have leaks but the only truly permanent methods I have found are either a welded boss if you have access to somebody to do it or one of these http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/product_specification.asp?ID=23439 with a reducing bush and threaded dip tube.
 
Had a eber on my first boat. "Professionally" installed. First they filled up my bilges with diesel, then they failed to fix the leak, then it went wrong and they charged me over £250 for a new microprocessor. Seems that micropressors go wrong very frequently on ebers but very rarely elsewhere in life. Would absolutely never ever use that installation firm again.
Bought a webasto at the boat show 5 years ago, installed it myself (carefully). Has never failed (yet). Transient high load starting is of no importance. Essential bit of kit for early season sailing in Scotland. 4 or 5 hours heat for 80p worth of diesel, worth every penny.
 
slipknot said:
The diesel pre filter typically has a spare/blanked off outlet. Why not use that.
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It can be used but may cause issues down the line as the pump wears a little, have problems priming after an idle period, etc. etc. it needs to be carefully considered. The dosing pumps move so little that they work best and for longest when drawing through a tube with a diameter of close to 2mm for it's entire length and that includes the tank pipe.
 
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