Eberspacher D3L

Clyde_Wanderer

Clyde_Wanderer

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While stripping and servicing a D3L which I bought sechand I learned some useful facts about them both from an employee of Colchester fuel injection ltd (who supply the all important Wick and felt rings/gaskets etc) and some of you forumites.
I took a series of pics while I was assembling it and added some, somewhat squigley lines and some comments which I felt would be useful to someone who has never stripped one of them as I hadent before.
I have been asked a few times for the pics, and since there is quite a few of them, emailing them is slow.
I am putting the pics on here for future refference.
Hope its not too many pics for the moderators, or perhaps they can put them somewhere that they will be available during a related search.
Not trying to teach those already in the know how to suck eggs.
C_W
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This end of breather pipe fits into rubber housing around glow plug and allows ari to circulate around top end of glow plug preventing a build up of condensation hence preventing corrosion problems on the glow plug electrical connection.
 
If anyone wants pictures for the same on a D1LC then I will attempt to upload them in a D1LC thread.
PS - Did you swap the filter in the fuel metering pump? I have no photos of the filter but it is very well hidden in the tank (lower) side of the pump.
PPS - Don't attempt to unscrew the heater side of the pump to find a filter - it's calibrated at the factory.
 
Wow
youve got more patience than me to post all these, well done. Havent had one of these apart and its interesting to see the "wick". Peeps should understand that in the D1LC and the D2s that the "wick" is the gauze that surrounds the glow plug and consequently can be cleaned etc by just removing the glow plug. Another misconception is that the tick tick pump pressurises something and fuel sprays in, it doesnt, it just "trickles" through the internal passage ways and on to the wick where it is vapourised, as I have said before, think tilley lamp.
Stu
 
Wow. Excellent ( And I have neither boat nor diesel-electric heater right now)

Why have I been wasting money on crappy fuzzy blurry official 'workshop manuals' over the years?

I think there are going to be some very grateful- and toasty warm- boaters on here this spring !
 
[ QUOTE ]
Wow. Excellent ( And I have neither boat nor diesel-electric heater right now)

Why have I been wasting money on crappy fuzzy blurry official 'workshop manuals' over the years?



I think there are going to be some very grateful- and toasty warm- boaters on here this spring !

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes Blueboatman, including myself. "Hopefully"
 
Thanks all.
As I say I probably couldent have done it without some good advice from the forum and elsewhere, "Thanks to you all."
I felt these are the bits that the manual doesent cover too well as Eber want to sell a complete heat exchanger as opposed to the wick and fibre rings.
Can I add that it would be wise, in order to save time, to always assume the green gasket will be rendered useless if opening the heat exchanger up, so have a spare gasket and fibre rings x2 if just doing a decoke.
Now can I ask anyone with a D3L actually fitted in their boats, (I am just wiring mine up this wk) what neat substantial main isolator switch could I use? ovbiousley able to handle 25amp, and is the 16A fuse supposed to be a slowblow fuse?
Thanks, C_W
 
I'd like to add my praise for your excellent post. Having never seen the inside of one before I can now visualise it. Mine is a D5L

Is there a standard list of spares that one should order before working on these devices, and from where?
 
If I remember right they recommend that the thing be connected straight to the batteries to avoid a switch being inadvertently switched off and the machine not being able to do a cool down period. The D3lc draws 20 amps on start up, I usually use a std car type blade fuse if i dont have a horrible corroding type eber one! Suggest the next size up fuse from a 20 amp to allow a bit of lee way.
Stu
 
Lemain.
Not sure about the D5L but I am sure I heard that they are just a bigger version of the D3L, so I would imagine that as far as gaskets etc are concerned that it will have very similar but bigger gaskets to the 3, the 5 is bugger in diameter and longer.
Some folk reckon thet getting the three cross head screws out is difficult without moving the p c board from the back of the motor, well I had to get one out using molegrips and replaced it with a cup head screw so I could use an Allen key in the furture.
Apart from a decoke now an then, a new wick, fibre rings, green gasket, the red gasket I would reckon should last a lot longer as it doesent lend itself to getting as brittle as the green one, and a glowplug clean or renew should keep it sweet for another year or two.
Another thing to bear in mind for those making one from bits and peices from Ebay etc, is that the control units are matched to the particular model and build No, as one control unit will have a different circuit board behind the motor than another part No control unit and board.
There are various build numbers among the D3L's and I would imagine it will be the same for the D5L's
So it is important to cross cross refference part numbers before buying any particular part.
Again I found Colchester fuel injection(Ray) to be extreemly knowledgeable on all the models and very helpful.
Another point I would make, If anyone reserecting an old unit and having gone through the aforementioned checks which should include carefully examining the heat exchanger unit for cracks, (eberspacher agents are not allowed to repair them after 10 year old for this reason) if you have problems getting them up and running, first remove any digital timer units or thermostats from the wiring loom and check over the wiring diagram to ensure the manual control unit is correctly wired up, as there is umpteen configurations on the D3L's alone.
Good luck.
 
Many thanks /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Regarding the wiring, if starting with a know good unit (i.e. your own original Eber rather than one bought in unknown condition) it might pay to take photos of the wiring and layout before disconnecting.
 
Hi Lemain, I actually bought mine from a forumite, (whom I cant even remember his name now) for the price of postage £20 knowing that it might never run again as advices by him.
The guy was up front and honest, and I felt I dident have a lot to loose if it was completly u s.
On stripping and examining it, (Ihad never even set eyes on one before not alone repaired one) I judged it to be repairable, so after £80 for spares and another 200 odds for ducting, exaust vents and all the bits needed to set it up in a boat I now have a good heater, and a good knowledge of them.
Incidently the control switch was wired up wrong when I got it, which prevented it from firing up correctly, and after some head scratching and diagram inspection, bingo.
Cheers, C_W
 
Hello, old thread but simple question : I did some maintenance on my D3L. After starting sequence and while heating the tick tick pumps is working at around 240 ticks per second. Is it normal ? It shouldn't slow down after a while ? Heater seems working fine, no smoke, nothing apparently wrong. If anyone can check his heater, I'd be very grateful. Thanks
 
Is it different now than what it was before you did the maintenance? As above assuming it is 240 per minute it sounds about right for start-up/high heat. If it's producing a good amount of heat, isn't smoking out the exhaust and you have a means of turning it down or a thermostat, let it run for a good while & it should reduce...
 
Clyde_Wanderer said:
While stripping and servicing a D3L which I bought sechand I learned some useful facts about them both from an employee of Colchester fuel injection ltd (who supply the all important Wick and felt rings/gaskets etc) and some of you forumites.
I took a series of pics while I was assembling it and added some, somewhat squigley lines and some comments which I felt would be useful to someone who has never stripped one of them as I hadent before.
I have been asked a few times for the pics, and since there is quite a few of them, emailing them is slow.
I am putting the pics on here for future refference.
Hope its not too many pics for the moderators, or perhaps they can put them somewhere that they will be available during a related search.
Not trying to teach those already in the know how to suck eggs.
C_W
P1000889.jpg

P1000891.jpg

P1000893.jpg

P1000894.jpg

P1000895.jpg

P1000896.jpg

P1000897.jpg

P1000898.jpg

P1000900.jpg

P1000901.jpg

P1000902.jpg

P1000903.jpg

P1000904.jpg

P1000907.jpg

P1000909.jpg




This end of breather pipe fits into rubber housing around glow plug and allows ari to circulate around top end of glow plug preventing a build up of condensation hence preventing corrosion problems on the glow plug electrical connection.
Click to expand...
Excellent, thanks!
 
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