Eberspacher d2 - direct to battery or...

the_branflake

the_branflake

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Hi,

Shortly i will be fitting a D2 and i was just wondering how your D2 is connected. I was thinking of connecting the main power loom (with its 25amp and 5amp fuse) direct to my service battery isolator.

Has anyone else got an addition switch between these, on a switch panel or something?

Thanks,
Mat
 
The problem of a switch is that you might turn it off while the eber is in action. that is a big NO NO. The heater must be allowed to close itself down and burn off all the fuel.

Thus we have our wired direct to the battery (eith its own fuse of course).
 
From memory it needs 2 supplies ( 5 and 20amp). 1 needs to be permanently live for the clock. The other can be switched but remember to shut down before turning off the supply or it'll soot up.:(
 
davidej said:
The problem of a switch is that you might turn it off while the eber is in action. that is a big NO NO. The heater must be allowed to close itself down and burn off all the fuel.

Thus we have our wired direct to the battery (eith its own fuse of course).
Click to expand...

Thats a really good point that I'd not thought about.

Thanks all for the input, I'll connect it to the isolator.
 
Our (D3LC) is connected via a fuse to the main switch. I want the ability to isolate it - turning off isn't an issue as power stays on when we're onboard.
The control panel is switched separately on the switchboard (which also goes via the big isolator).
We don't have a timer - just a normal on/off/temp control unit.
 
ghostlymoron said:
From memory it needs 2 supplies ( 5 and 20amp). 1 needs to be permanently live for the clock. The other can be switched but remember to shut down before turning off the supply or it'll soot up.:(
Click to expand...
The prob with having it switched is that you CAN switch it off accidently whilst it is running, it then cant cool down and it will melt something. I was advised by an Eber man, when I first started messing with them, to connect directly to the battery (through a fuse!) to avoid this.
Stu
 
Here’s a really radical idea, sounds daft I know, but why not install it following the manufacturers instructions, including wiring it up so it can’t be switched off by you or somebody else whilst in full flight and suffer damage including heat transfer damage to the ECU components.
 
David2452 said:
Here’s a really radical idea, sounds daft I know, but why not install it following the manufacturers instructions, including wiring it up so it can’t be switched off by you or somebody else whilst in full flight and suffer damage including heat transfer damage to the ECU components.
Click to expand...
I couldnt remember where I had seen it written, I knew I had been told it, thanks for the confirmation
OK you guys R T F M!!
Stu
 
My D3L is wired direct to the battery through a 30 amp fuse, no isolators or anything in between, as others have said, you risk killing the eber if you ever do accidentally isolate it so best to go straight to the battery
 
Cardo said:
So to stop the control panel from draining the batteries, should the panel be wired through the isolator and the heater itself direct to the batteries?
Click to expand...
The panel should definately be permanently live to maintain the settings. The opinion of the forum seems to be that the heater should also be permanently live - both through fuses.
 
ghostlymoron said:
The panel should definately be permanently live to maintain the settings. The opinion of the forum seems to be that the heater should also be permanently live - both through fuses.
Click to expand...

So how does one stop the control panel, which always has the thermostat and LCD on when it has power, from draining the batteries?

I like the idea of having no loads at all on the batteries when I isolate them?
 
You dont stop the loads, you just add a small solar panel to keep everything in check, this way you get to keep all the settings and the time in the heaters control panel
 
ghostlymoron said:
The panel should definately be permanently live to maintain the settings. The opinion of the forum seems to be that the heater should also be permanently live - both through fuses.
Click to expand...
Here is the manual for the D2 specifically for the uk http://www.eberspacher.com/downloads/technical-documents/marine_installation_22278.pdf see page 19. They are now hedging their bets, I noted earlier on in the document that they arrogantly say this isnt allowed and that isnt allowed. I suspect a translation literally from the german. They can be very pedantic.
Stu
 
I did see an install last year (Mikuni) with a small battery switch next to the main battery switches and tapped into the permenant live side of one, the type used on racing cars with a separate key on a lanyard next to it. It was generally a really good install and the switch was labelled “Heater do not turn off whilst running” or similar, I thought it an elegant solution for those who want zero drain in their absence.
 
skipper_stu said:
Here is the manual for the D2 specifically for the uk http://www.eberspacher.com/downloads/technical-documents/marine_installation_22278.pdf see page 19. They are now hedging their bets, I noted earlier on in the document that they arrogantly say this isnt allowed and that isnt allowed. I suspect a translation literally from the german. They can be very pedantic.
Stu
Click to expand...
Extract from manual :-'Connecting to the power supply
The preferred point of connection is the boat’s main battery isolator, using the fuse assembly supplied. It should be connected so that when the isolator is switched off, the heater cannot be used.
However, if a remote operating device such as a timer or Calltronic is to be used, then the heater will need to be wired to the battery (permanently live) side of the isolator so that when the isolator is switched off, the heater can still be operated.
! Caution!' However, on the diagram on the following page, it's shown connected direct to the battery.
In answer to Cardo's question - you can't. Unless you provide a permanent feed to the controller, it will forget the time setting and need to be re-set each time the power is re-connected to allow full use of the timed functions. It's a very low power consumption, milliamps.
 
It seems even the manufacturers can't agree on this one, extract from the Webasto install manual and the way Webasto trains technicians, as does Mikuni.

"If there are battery isolation switches in the boat: connect the plus lead from the heating system directly to the positive pole of the service battery. This makes it possible for the heating system to always be switched off afterwards"

I prefer to err on the side of caution and have no means of accidental switching off in full burn, especially with water based systems, you might know about the dangers of switching off at the battery isolator but guests, prying kiddies and subsequent owners may not.
 
David2452 said:
I prefer to err on the side of caution and have no means of accidental switching off in full burn, especially with water based systems, you might know about the dangers of switching off at the battery isolator but guests, prying kiddies and subsequent owners may not.
Click to expand...

If you're installing for someone else then I can fully appreciate your caution. For me (us) I like the knowledge that when I turn off the electrics they are turned off with nothing live.... but then we installed it for us on our own boat ..
It wouldn't take much to swap over to the other side of the switch should someone else require it (when we sell the boat!)
 
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