Eberspacher D2 - Any experts out there please?

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zambant

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Eberspacher D2 - Any experts out there?

My Eberspacher Airtronic D2 is driving me NUTS – and my 7 year old daughter is freezing!!!!

The symptoms are intermittent - unfortunately.

It has the rheostat and is an ex BT unit (I'm assuming as it say's so on the loom)

(1) It some times starts in vent mode ie fan running flat out and makes no attempt to start.


(2)Then some times it goes through a normal start cycle - fan runs slowly, picking up speed, after about 1 min the fuel starts to pump and the unit attempts to start. Smoke comes out of the exhaust, exhaust gas gets warm and warm air comes out of the unit. Its seems to be “spluttering” at this stage
It then stops pumping and the unit goes into vent mode (the fan runs at full speed)

I have tried removing the rheostat and shorting necessary pairs (in the correct sequence ) to force it to start in vent mode – all ok. Then running it without the rheostat (red and yellow connected) – same problem as (2) above.

Tried to run it on paraffin – does the same thing.

I have measured the resistance of the flame sensor and the overheating sensor at various temperatures and the agree with the values as published in the Eberspacher manual.

I have not been able to measure the resistance of the glow plug accurately but it does seem to be in the ball park.

I don’t want to be rushing out and buying bits “to try” and solve it.

Any ideas please anyone?

As a last ditch solution - I’m in Southampton so anyone used a local engineer they can personally recommend please?

Thanks

John
 
Needs a clean

These are the classic symptoms (from my own personal experience at least) that the screen (gauze) around the glow pin is clogged up with carbon. You mat get away with a new screen (fairly cheap and easy to fit - if you have the 'split' box spanner to remove the glow pin). If this doesn't help, then its a complete strip-down, decoke and rebuild. All well within average DIY capability. Just get a new set of gaskets before you start (and download the service manual from around here: http://www.espar.com/help/)
 
Thx

Thanks for the input Jerry,
The exhaust is really clean and shows no sign of a possible decoke - so the screen route does seem to be worth looking at.

John :)
 
Try running it without the ducting connected.
You could have a collapsed duct somewhere. This restricts flow and causes the unit to shut down because it thinks it's overheating.
 
When out of the boat.. did it look black when you looked up the exhaust outlet.. although that's not a very good test.. It always does!

As the others have said. It sounds like it's just coked up and the gauze is not lighting enough to cope with the fan on full power when the glow plug is de-energized. Any burn will go out and the flame sensor will recognise this, cutting the fuel and the fan will then continue to turn to cool the unit down the rest of the way.

If you have not had it apart and cleaned it or replaced the gauze the I would suggest that it might need doing. The glow plug is not easy to check visually - on the D1Lc it was a visible coil that you could see - On this one it's a ceramic pin - so you can only check the resistance. Thing is - if it had gone, then the controller would have detected that and not started to pump the fuel so I would guess that the glow pin is good.

I have bought parts from pfjones.. next day delivery and they'll take orders over the phone.. you can even order online and then pay by phone if you don't like using your card online...

http://www.pfjones.co.uk/eberspache...eberspacher-airtronic-d2-12v-spare-parts.html

You would need a new gauze (screen) and a burner gasket as a minimum. The motor gasket can usually be re-used a few times but the burner gasket will fall into a hundred pieces even if it has only been used for a few weeks.

Paraffin (once you have it working again) will really help with cleaning the burner out.

Any questions .... ask.. Ah - for the glow pin removal you will need that special 12mm socket with a split in it.. It is shown in the parts list and used to be included with the new gauzes but doesn't seem to be included any more. Ask when you order.

Rgds Martin.
 
Update on 12mm socket that is required..

Thinking about it again... That special slotted socket that you need to get the glow pin out. It comes with a new glow pin.. but at £80, it's an expensive way of getting a small socket.

The 'tool' that is quoted as coming with the new screen (gauze) is actually a small plastic tool that is just used to ensure the new screen is pushed into the burner chamber by precisely the correct amount.

Removing the screen is a matter of pulling and generally destroying it in the process.

BTW - if you need to borrow a slotted 12mm socket then let me know. I'm in Portsmouth and it might save you buying a glow pin at this moment in time.

This thread shows that you can (if you so wish) make a slotted socket from a 12mm deep socket... You might find it easier borrowing one of mine!
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239253


The thread below shows the insides of my D4 after running on paraffin for 6 hours...
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258433
 
Just to second the 'poor running' for some reason suggestions.
The heater is obviously unhappy, not running corectly and so is going into the deigned vent stage to purge out unburnt fuel in the heater.
Look at decoke of the pin and gauze ( ensure you have a new gauze handy) ( if it will run then try the running on parafin system)
Mucky fuel or wrong/leaky fuel pump/pipes could also cause poor running.
 
D2 problem

Two likely reasons ;
(a) Battery rough or low charge – glowpug draws high current during starting, the voltage drops below minimum 10.5v so heater shuts down.
(b) Glowplug screen blocked.
Both match the symptoms.
In this case, heater itself could also be heavily clogged.
Fairly easy to dismantle, but new screen and burner gasket imperative. For step by step directions see the link below.
Paraffin and kerosene may burn the carbon out, but they can also damage your electronic control unit (new one costs £280). Heat builds up in a clogged heater, and backs up via the casing to overheat the ECU. Blew two myself, but haven’t blown one since de-coking regularly. Paraffin burns hotter, hence more heat! Suspect this is why Eberspacher advise max setting in this case.
There is an oil additive that does a fantastic job; and it’s safe.
For overhaul photos and proof see 'Roy’s pages' in this link. Also solution for the special glowpug tool.

www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk
 
As others have said - it sounds like the unit is coked up ...
we had (or still have) the same problem - but were lucky enough that the unit would fire up the first time in the day - so just fired up on some heating oil (28sec) and let it run for an hour - then did it again ... probably needs longer but didn't have the time.
That your unit isn't firing up is the classic 90 second startup routine - if it doesn't catch in 90 seconds it shuts down - so your unit isn't lighting - the gauze is probably the easiest fix - so if you get this fixed it's probably worth running on parafin afterwards...
 
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