Eber struggles to start - could this be the problem?

[Cardo]

OR, you've still got a voltage problem.

Fairly sure that's not the case. I stopped getting the low voltage shutoff error after I beefed up the cables. It was also refusing to start with the mains charger on bulk charge, which generally puts out a higher voltage than the alternator at relatively low revs.

I would suggest you bite the bullet and install the Eber recommended standpipe directly into the tank. It will be worth the effort in the long run.

I have installed 2 Ebers this way. The first worked without a single failure in 13 years (before I sold the boat) and the second (recently fitted) worked first time (after initial priming) and continues to work with any problems.

I must say, whilst I'd love to do this, it just sounds like it's pretty tricky to do. I'm guessing I'd have to completely empty out the tank (grief!) and then find someone with the right tool to cut the hole, before fitting the standpipe.
That or keep tank full or start the engine to start the Eber...

 

[David2452]

Fairly sure that's not the case. I stopped getting the low voltage shutoff error after I beefed up the cables. It was also refusing to start with the mains charger on bulk charge, which generally puts out a higher voltage than the alternator at relatively low revs.



I must say, whilst I'd love to do this, it just sounds like it's pretty tricky to do. I'm guessing I'd have to completely empty out the tank (grief!) and then find someone with the right tool to cut the hole, before fitting the standpipe.
That or keep tank full or start the engine to start the Eber...

No, the standpipe goes in at the top of the tank, so it can be almost full, many I do are at least half full, all you need is a 25mm hole saw and some grease to make the swarf stick to it and you are away, access permiting of course.

 

[Cardo]

No, the standpipe goes in at the top of the tank, so it can be almost full, many I do are at least half full, all you need is a 25mm hole saw and some grease to make the swarf stick to it and you are away, access permiting of course.

Hmmmm... Don't suppose anyone around the Hamble has the right equipment? I am willing to pay in booze and crisps.

If I could do that, I could do a second hole and also install a proper fuel gauge... Currently it's one of those annoying pipes up the side that's completely stained so it's a b*tch to spot the fuel level.

 

[Heckler]

I've had similar issues from time to time, especially after it has failed to start because of low volts, or shortage of diesel. In my case, the problem is that the diesel feed needs to be primed. This has to be done by manually cycling the diesel pump - I use a spare battery and jump leads to cycle the pump 20-30 times.

If anyone knows a better way of priming the diesel supply, I'd love to hear it - it's a pain in the neck having to empty a cockpit locker and fiddle around with cables at the bottom of the locker! I just do what the engineer we once got out to look at it did.

This is, at most, a once a season job, I hasten to say!

Maplins sell a kit to make a timed maker and breaker thing. Its got two pots on it that let you adjust the timing and length of time. Build it, wire it in and then just have a switch to power it when needed. If you cant find it, I have one I bought and made with the idea of using it to manually control an Eber with a duff controller. £10 posted
Stu

 

[NormanS]

You can easily tell if it's getting fuel or not. If it's getting fuel, and the glow pin, or plug is energised, and not lighting, you will get smoke. No smoke, no fuel

 

[David2452]

Hmmmm... Don't suppose anyone around the Hamble has the right equipment? I am willing to pay in booze and crisps.

If I could do that, I could do a second hole and also install a proper fuel gauge...

Bit more involved than a simple 25mm hole I'm afraid, you need a DIN ring of holes surrounding the main hole accept them, either directly or with a BSP adaptor.

 

[Cardo]

Bit more involved than a simple 25mm hole I'm afraid, you need a DIN ring of holes surrounding the main hole accept them, either directly or with a BSP adaptor.

Pah! Why is everything always so complicated?!

 

[Heckler]

Bit more involved than a simple 25mm hole I'm afraid, you need a DIN ring of holes surrounding the main hole accept them, either directly or with a BSP adaptor.

The eber standpipe is a simple threaded thing, just needs a simple hole about 18mm ish.
Done loads, coat the drill with grease and it collects the swarf.
Stu

 

[ghostlymoron]

Not me, guv. I was attempting to solve the OPs problem.

Also, if you read the thread carefully you will see that the OP is using 2mm pipe from the CAV filter to the pump but 8mm (or whatever is the 'normal' size fuel pick up) to the CAV from the tank. Hence my thought that the pump may not have enough 'suck' to draw fuel up the 8mm pipe from the tank.

Sorry, I was not implying any criticism. Obviously I've not been paying attention it's quite a long thread!

 

[vyv_cox]

The eber standpipe is a simple threaded thing, just needs a simple hole about 18mm ish.
Done loads, coat the drill with grease and it collects the swarf.
Stu

Yes, my hydronic uses one set into a 5 litre plastic bottle. Drill the hole, cut the tube to the correct length, insert it into the hole and slide the elongated land inside. Slip the washer over the top and tighten down the nut. However, there are very many who have the take-off as you do, or T'ed into the engine supply after the filter, and never have a problem.

 

[alahol2]

Yes, my hydronic uses one set into a 5 litre plastic bottle. Drill the hole, cut the tube to the correct length, insert it into the hole and slide the elongated land inside. Slip the washer over the top and tighten down the nut. However, there are very many who have the take-off as you do, or T'ed into the engine supply after the filter, and never have a problem.

It would be relatively easy to confirm the fuel/volts conundrum by simply dipping the end of your 2mm fuel pipe into a bottle of diesel and seeing if you get an easy start. If you find this is the problem then maybe a separate, small tank is the solution.

EDIT: Not aimed at Vyv, just re-inforcing his idea of a separate tank.

 

[Cardo]

I ran the Eber for around an hour after it started earlier on.

I've just tried starting it again, with the engine off and it fired up straight away. Maybe it just needed a bit of help priming the first time round? I'll see what happens tomorrow morning.