Eber heater ... fuel tank?

[simon_sluggett]

I use a metal jerry can strapped to side of bulkhead inside a locker. The tank is closer to the heater than the main tank, less chance of airlocks and no risk of air leaking back into your engine supply. Also I have an extra can there in case I ever run out of engine supply, just unclip pipe and holding straps and away you go.

 

[Otter]

DW - Thanks for such a detailed reply - the positioning of an Eber on an HT does have its peculiarities!

 

[fireball]

Thanks for all the tips and opinions - given me a bit more to think about ...

Now just to source some reasonably priced ducting ....

 

[duncan]

[ QUOTE ]
I am very concerned that we might damage the gel coat or singe rubbing strakes of a boat alongside

[/ QUOTE ] I have the same situation - midships exhaust. No choice at all in my case. All I can do is draw it to th eattention of any boat rafting - if I get the chance. They will hear it if close enough for damage anyway!

 

[ShipsWoofy]

I have just re-read it. I want to make sure this is clear.

We only have one closing vent, the vent into the saloon is a directional but always open vent. I would be worried if a system had all vents closable there might be a situation where the heater overheats as no cold air is being pushed through.

My combustion pipe a 10cm x 25mm pipe just sits below the heater in the locker. I have a 50mm ducting drawing air from the aft cabin into the rear of the eber. It may have been better to draw air from the saloon but I had a fear of cooking smells being circulated into the sleeping area.

My system appears to work well, we have had 21°C while it is -4°C outside. Plenty warm enough sat out on a mooring in winter.

Except the heads, which somehow manages to be the coldest room in the world in any season. I don't know if this is a heavenly twins thing, but if it wasn't for it's actual purpose it would make a great larder.

p.s. I had some over from 4m of ducting, 3m would still give some to play with.

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks for all the tips and opinions - given me a bit more to think about ...

Now just to source some reasonably priced ducting ....

[/ QUOTE ]Measure what size you need then go to your local motor factors and ask for "emission control duct" - you may need to shop around but it is available in coils of 2.5, 5 and 10m and is comparatively cheap. Wrap the ducting with fire resistant insulation as the heated air comes out og the heater at over 100°C - I measured the temperature of the air coming out of mine at 120° C.

The emission control duct is made of heavy gauge aluminium foils spiral wound to form the duct and is very flexible as it can be stretched or compressed lengthwise.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[savageseadog]

In short use a fuel filter either an auxiliary outlet from the main engine filter or a separate fuel take off and filter. The fuel pump has a tiny filter in it and will soon clog with most fuel I've seen on boats. The pump is constructed with a non-return valve so the heater system won't let air into the engine fuel system. It's still worth having a stop cock in the heater supply for the purposes of maintaining the heater.