PabloPicasso
Well-Known Member
How much power (amp/hours?)does an eberspacher deisel heater draw? How long can it be run off an 88ah battery without having to start the engine to charge it?
eber amps
- Thread starter PabloPicasso
- Start date
sailorman
Well-Known Member
ask Mr Google
VicS
Well-Known Member
Depends on the model and the power output setting
anything between 7 watts ( call that half an amp) and 34 watts ( best part of 3 amps) for the smallest model
You only want to half discharge the battery at most, so only 44 Ahr avaialble
44Ah divided by 0.5amps = 88 hrs
44Ah didvided by 3amps = nearly 15 hours
Assuming the stated power requirements are for continuous running
anything between 7 watts ( call that half an amp) and 34 watts ( best part of 3 amps) for the smallest model
You only want to half discharge the battery at most, so only 44 Ahr avaialble
44Ah divided by 0.5amps = 88 hrs
44Ah didvided by 3amps = nearly 15 hours
Assuming the stated power requirements are for continuous running
skip50
Well-Known Member
My D3L draws 19 amps, when firing up, i.e. the glow plug is on. If I remember correctly about 0.9 amps once the glow plug goes off. I thought I read that the glow plug was used to burn off excess fuel when shutting down, but it only seemed to pull a lot of current very very briefly right at the end.
HTH
HTH
neale
Well-Known Member
You might find the start up current a problem. I ran one from a single 120ah battery and often had to have the engine runing or the battery charger on to start up the eber. Once running I could turn engine or battery charger off and it would keeprunning. A Single 80ah battery will probably be ok as long as it is in good condition, fully charged, and your cable runs have been designed to keep voltage drop to a minimum.
alahol2
Well-Known Member
My D1Lc draws about 20A at startup for 10 - 20 seconds then falls back to around 2.5A for a while. Once running it draws between 1.7A on full down to about 0.7A on 'tickover'.
Mistroma
Well-Known Member
Each model (D1L, D3L, D5L etc.) has different power requirements so it would help to know which model you have. I looked at D1L before buying D3L and found the figures for that model (seem to have lost D3L spec.)
Start up: ~ 21A for 20-30 seconds
Boost: (a few minutes after start up) 2.5A
High: 1.84A (In very cold conditions could be most of the time)
Medium: 0.84A
Low:- 0.67A
I seem to remember that my D3L tended to use around 3A for an hour and then around 1.5A after that. So a 5 hour run only used around 9Ah.
It is worth considering a couple of other points:
1) Initial state of charge and condition/age of battery
You may have 88Ah written on the side of the battery but it may not have that capacity any more. I'm assuming that it is fairly new and in good condition so you are starting with 88Ah. However, when cruising you are unlikely to keep the battery at 100% charge. Around 80%-90% is likely and that gives ~70-80Ah. Discharging to 50% actually gives you
26-36Ah available capacity.
2) Likely duty cycle (ie. Hours use and length of time on full heat)
You are asking about hours so focus on how long heater will be on full power. This depends on how cold it is, level of insulation on boat and internal volume being heated vs. heater output.
I had a D3L on a Southerly 95 and that seemed to be a good size. It only needed to run for an hour or less at full heat when temp. outside was 5-10 degrees C. Then it cut back to low output for the rest of the evening.
Start up: ~ 21A for 20-30 seconds
Boost: (a few minutes after start up) 2.5A
High: 1.84A (In very cold conditions could be most of the time)
Medium: 0.84A
Low:- 0.67A
I seem to remember that my D3L tended to use around 3A for an hour and then around 1.5A after that. So a 5 hour run only used around 9Ah.
It is worth considering a couple of other points:
1) Initial state of charge and condition/age of battery
You may have 88Ah written on the side of the battery but it may not have that capacity any more. I'm assuming that it is fairly new and in good condition so you are starting with 88Ah. However, when cruising you are unlikely to keep the battery at 100% charge. Around 80%-90% is likely and that gives ~70-80Ah. Discharging to 50% actually gives you
26-36Ah available capacity.
2) Likely duty cycle (ie. Hours use and length of time on full heat)
You are asking about hours so focus on how long heater will be on full power. This depends on how cold it is, level of insulation on boat and internal volume being heated vs. heater output.
I had a D3L on a Southerly 95 and that seemed to be a good size. It only needed to run for an hour or less at full heat when temp. outside was 5-10 degrees C. Then it cut back to low output for the rest of the evening.
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
If startup currents are a problem and these are being solved by having the engine running, it points to one of two problems. Firstly the cabling might be right on its limits of voltage drop - and you rightly say that cables runs need to be up to spec and all the connections good etc.
However, the second possible problem has already been alluded to by other responses. One battery of 88 Ah or even 110 Ah really isn't very much usable capacity, and its VERY easy to damage the battery due to repeatedly discharging it to low levels of charge. One of the symptoms is a higher internal resistance in the battery resulting in lower voltages at high current demands. Running the engine obscures the fault as the alternator effectively runs everything (just like it does on a car 99% of the time) and the battery remains in its faulty state.
To the OP - IMHO I suggest that you think very carefully about your battery management and battery capacity and charging etc. One 88 Ah battery would probably only be suitable for running a few instruments and the bare minimum of nav lights and internal lighting, let alone a fridge!
Durcott
Well-Known Member
It might be worth mentioning the classic Eber gotcha...
It might still run while the battery is getting discharged, but unless the battery is fresh, it most likely won't restart.
The control box measures the voltage while the glowplug is on, and if it drops, it cuts off the startup cycle. I suspect this is to ensure that you can still start the vehicle engine - it doesn't understand about 'house' batteries.
I happen to have a code reader for the Ebers, and by far the most common 'fault' code I got was, battery volts too low' even on a 'good' battery.
Jeff
It might still run while the battery is getting discharged, but unless the battery is fresh, it most likely won't restart.
The control box measures the voltage while the glowplug is on, and if it drops, it cuts off the startup cycle. I suspect this is to ensure that you can still start the vehicle engine - it doesn't understand about 'house' batteries.
I happen to have a code reader for the Ebers, and by far the most common 'fault' code I got was, battery volts too low' even on a 'good' battery.
Jeff
rob2
Well-Known Member
If you want to look into this a little further, you'll find good advice and links to all the free downloadable manuals on the Le Tonkinois website. They've recently updated, adding detail on specific models, old and new.
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/
Rob.
http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/
Rob.
pagoda
Well-Known Member
In boats - I think many problems are caused by optimistically light wiring, slightly corroded connectors and of course tired or not fully charged batteries.
If you can find the connectors - back to the battery, try cleaning them up.
Where your battery is honestly beyond it's sell by date .. replace.
If neither of these solve you problem, then run a brand new 6mm2 cable (fused) from the battery to a heavy duty (40A) car relay, just by the glow plug. Use the glow plug wire to operate the relay ONLY. Take the switched 12V from the relay to the glow plug. You should find the performance of the Eber is transformed. Hopefully.
It sorted my heater out anyway
Graeme
savageseadog
Well-Known Member
In boats - I think many problems are caused by optimistically light wiring, slightly corroded connectors and of course tired or not fully charged batteries.
If you can find the connectors - back to the battery, try cleaning them up.
Where your battery is honestly beyond it's sell by date .. replace.
If neither of these solve you problem, then run a brand new 6mm2 cable (fused) from the battery to a heavy duty (40A) car relay, just by the glow plug. Use the glow plug wire to operate the relay ONLY. Take the switched 12V from the relay to the glow plug. You should find the performance of the Eber is transformed. Hopefully.
It sorted my heater out anyway
Graeme
I use 10mm sq cable for eberspacher wiring, can't be too thick.
fireball
Well-Known Member
Don't forget the return cable. 
neale
Well-Known Member
+1
