easy outs and alloy machine screws...

[duncan]

Having had a problem tightening an alloy screw holding part of my windlass together I did a quick bodge by removing it and fitting a SS replacement that I had on board - meaning to replace etc soonest.....and then forgot!
Inevitably a slight rattle (extra rattle to be honest) allerted me to a problem and the SS screw has sheared - obviously weakened by g/corrosion.
(1) I need to get it out but don't have any screw removers - are they an easy tools to aquire? {screwfix source but the handling cost is highter than the part!}
(2) Where can I source replacement M5 / 10mm / CS / alloy screws?
Thanks in anticipation - and please don't shout at me for forgetting about the temporary fix!

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[VirgoVoyager]

I wouldn't dream of shouting at you. I have lost count over the years of the number of temporary repairs I have forgotten about or never got round to making permanent - and it gets worse with age!

Removers should be easy to come by - any tool store or motor factors and even places like Halfords have them. Is the broken section in deep, though? I have often had success grinding or sawing a slot on the broken face and using a screwdriver to remove the offending article.

Good luck

Stuart

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[duncan]

yes it's in deep - thanks; I hadn't even considered Halfords!

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[Forbsie]

Biggest problem is posting this as the sun goes down on the last day of the holidays and just before the boatshow, else I would have got mine off the boat and lent them to you. If you want I can have a look in Buck & Ryans for a set for you. I prefer Hilti coz I could never get the others to do anything.

Give me a ring if I can help.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/forbsie?&page=1>My Project</A>

 

[ex-Gladys]

...there's a set of jokes going round about Haynes manuals and the use of tools. As I recall the description of an E-Z_out is a way of putting something into the remains of a screw and breaking it off... The E-Z_Out that is...

Short answer is beware. If an E-Z-Out breaks off they are very hard to then drill out. It's better if possible to try to drill out the screw yourself first. Ideally you need a bench drill. Use a small drill and then work up in size. If poss use a LH drill, you may find the screw comes out using one of the drills.

<hr width=100% size=1>Larry Botheras

Anderson 26 "Amber"

 

[duncan]

now a left hand drill sounds a great idea - however the bench drill is out as I need to do this insitue.

still no suggestions for sourcing alloy screws...............

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[ccscott49]

anny good toolshop for the sccrew extractors, but for get alloy screws, bronze will do the job very well and you can get them, anglia stainless steel. or even straight steel well protected.

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[Heckler]

i totally and utterly agree

e z outs are an oxy moron, i have yet to get a broken stud out with one of the pox ridden no good for nothing pieces of shite. they work on a left hand threadish principle and are tapered so forcing the broken bit tighter. thay have worked if the broken stud is loose and i would have got the sodding thing out with a bit of patience anyway, i foolishly bought a set of snap on extractors, all they did was break and leave an even harder bit of steel in that was resistant to all known drills.
my renault laguna security wheel studs caused me a particularly trying prob, broke the snap on shite, my oxy acetylene kit saved that particular job, marvellous the sight of molten hi tensile steel dripping from a mangled wheel stud, job was made even more exciting by the realisation that there was several kilos of hi imflammeable mag alloy in close proximity to the job warming up nicely!!
patience and a selection of drills, punches, cold chisels and a mechanical bent will eventually get the detrius out. your hardess job is getting the SS bit out, sharp drill, slowly!! and plenty of lube first of all
best of luck
stu

<hr width=100% size=1>http://www.beneteau-owners-association.org.uk

 

[TheBoatman]

You could try this?

Get a small drill bit, in your case you say you're drilling out 5mm screw, so try 1.5mm drill.
Then drill on opposite sides of the screw (forming a figure of 8) don't drill to deep, about a 1/16" should do it.
Then using a flat screwdriver place it across the fig 8 and give it a sharp smack with a hitting stick. This should then make a nice little slot which should allow you to simply un-screw the offending artical.
Best of luck.

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[BarryH]

I've done that in the past with good results. Here though, we're talking stainless into ali. Stainless is never the easiest thing to drill at the best of times and the "smack" on the end of the screwdriver will knacker the threads, Its the law of sod that prevails.

Other option that I found works is to drill hole and then tap with a left hand thread. Use another bolt with a left had thread to unscrew the broken one. This is of course if you have the required taps etc etc. Easy to sit in front of a computer screen and give advise, but a totally different senario when faced with the problem on a floating boat with the nearest tool/machine shop miles away. So what looks like a 5 min job takes up the weekend!

If all else fails. I find spark erosion works quite well!

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[BarryH]

Oh yeah alloy screws. Could more than likely get it at Jones Industrial Fasteners. Can't remember the number, they're in Surbiton.

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[robind]

how about starting with hot oil poured into the top of the offending bolt the heat expands the ali and steel causing disimilar coefficient of expansion and the oil gets down the thread. Drill a small hole down the centre and tap a small screwdriver bit down into it and "Hope" that maybe! just maybe, it will move. Copius very hot oil is the answer until it loosens.
B<O<L Rob

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.rejuvanu.com>RejuVanu</A>

 

[duncan]

ty - interesting line.

given the above I think I may weel be removing the windlass first and working on the problem at my leisure back at home!

thanks to all who proferred advice

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