Dysfunctional instruments

Neil

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NASA log: I have two paddle wheels (one not connected to anything) and at last lift out, I took out a small mussel from one and made sure both turned freely, but the display does not change

NASA depth: this was working, but now oscillates between the true (I think!) reading and 2 other depths.

NASA Wind: When I bought the boat it came with a new set of plastic cups, but when I had the mast down, there was no shaft on which to put the cups.........

Any help with the depth, particularly, would be appreciated.
 
Oh No... There are roughly 100000 threads which say that NASA instruments are ****. I often chip in and say that mine work fine. Seajet is eloquent on their failings.

I have all of the instruments you mention and they all work. They need a bit of care, and this year my masthead unit needed replacing after 11 years and chose to wait until the mast was stepped and need a trip to the top. I have always found that a bit of common sense maintenance makes them work.

Faults I have seen:

Masthead unit gets worn and under-reads ( about 3-4 years - send it to NASA for a cheap mend.

Log inaccurate - was installed in a silly place in the turn of the bilges. Accurate since relocation. Gets clogged up with weed - take out and clean. The metal bit in the paddle wheel rusts/falls out every four years. Replace paddle wheel (just the wheel, not the whole assembly) a few quid.

Depth - plays up with squidgy bottom or dirty water. Tinker with the "threshold" to make it work.

They're cheap instruments, and I can keep them working with a bit of a fartabout.

Possibly could save yourself some hassle by buying more expensive.
 
Windex on my vessel went on the blink three weeks after it was installed brand new. Then started to work again. Then it stopped and then it started again. Currently working nicely. The log gets clogged with er..."matter" and that is only a matter of whip out, place cap over skin fitting, remove wildlife and pop back. Job's a good 'un. No panic about the log. Use the GPS.
 
The manuals are cr*p; they tell you nothing - what is the output from the paddle wheel assembly? When it comes to the time to replace (like now, but funds wanting), what is the recommended manufacturer?
 
Well I hope NASA have improved their customer service...

The Clipper depth is the only thing of theirs I've found a good bit of kit; I'd check the transducer, if internally mounted has the oil leaked out and / or a bubble formed, if through hull is there any fouling on it ?
 
My nasa depth did this when I bought the boat and I replaced the instrument head with a new unit (kept the old transducer) and the new one works fine. It turns out none of the numbers it was flashing were relevant.

NASA log: I have two paddle wheels (one not connected to anything) and at last lift out, I took out a small mussel from one and made sure both turned freely, but the display does not change

NASA depth: this was working, but now oscillates between the true (I think!) reading and 2 other depths.

NASA Wind: When I bought the boat it came with a new set of plastic cups, but when I had the mast down, there was no shaft on which to put the cups.........

Any help with the depth, particularly, would be appreciated.
 
NASA log: I have two paddle wheels (one not connected to anything) and at last lift out, I took out a small mussel from one and made sure both turned freely, but the display does not change

NASA depth: this was working, but now oscillates between the true (I think!) reading and 2 other depths.

NASA Wind: When I bought the boat it came with a new set of plastic cups, but when I had the mast down, there was no shaft on which to put the cups.........

Any help with the depth, particularly, would be appreciated.

On a boat I had previously, the cups fell off. I bought a new set of cups from NASA and when the mast was unstepped, I found the same problem; no shaft. My solution was immediately obvious to me as I'm in the wholesale supply business to the body piercing industry. I got a titanium barbell of suitable length, with 1,6mm dia. and 6mm balls. I superglued the threads of what was to be the bottom ball, put on the cup arrangement, inserted the shaft into the dismantled unit, screwed on the top ball and added a blob of epoxy adhesive to hold everything in place and at the correct clearance. That was in 2006 and it was still going strong last year when I sold the boat. I would recommend this as a preventive measure as these cups have a reputation for falling off. You can get the relevant piece of hardware (titanium or 316 s/s) at any Tattoo and piercing studio. You'll need to measure the length accurately.
 
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