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As a first pass, try gently waggling the seized turbo using your fingers or a small spanner with everything turned off.
Don't use too much force, if it's seized hard, it will need a rebuild.
Dual Volvo Penta D3-220A-G stuck in limp, no fault code?
- Thread starter JasonG
- Start date
As a first pass, try gently waggling the seized turbo using your fingers or a small spanner with everything turned off.
Don't use too much force, if it's seized hard, it will need a rebuild.
JasonG
New Member
This is my fear based on what I saw when removing the air cleaner on Port side engine. As to Starboard, I think what happened while running was that since this is a Twin installation the EVC will rev-lock at 800rpm automatically so long as the levers are in roughly same position. I never tried independently. I falsely assumed both were in a limp mode when troubleshooting at slip in "throttle only" because I was unaware that throttle only mode limits to 1500 rpm. I intend to test the Starboard operation this week in single engine mode to verify.
Question regarding the Turbo: Should I be able to freely rotate the turbine on intake side ? I've attached a picture after some cleaning of the salt.
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Nito
Well-Known Member
Short answer is yes.
That looks a bit of a mess in there. I'd try carefully cleaning out all that mess, conscious that any bits you miss can end up being ingested into the intercooler or engine and also getting into the turbo shaft bearings or damaging the turbine blades/housing.
JasonG
New Member
I cleaned up the best I could, but it is just plain stuck. I checked the turbo on the Starboard engine and it moves quite freely. So good news is mystery solved - seized turbo. Bad news is seized turbo. Thanks everyone that helped me out.
Nito
Well-Known Member
It’s turbo out and send away for a rebuild then or exchange/new unit, think I’d go for the latter unless there’s a massive price difference.
Well done for diagnosing the issue. At least it’s easily resolvable. You will also need to investigate how water got in there so it doesn’t muck up the new turbo!
Well done for diagnosing the issue. At least it’s easily resolvable. You will also need to investigate how water got in there so it doesn’t muck up the new turbo!
Nito
Well-Known Member
Ps.
volvo penta d3 turbo problems
See post 9. You may be able to recover it by removing turbo and cleaning the turbine on the hot side. I’ve heard of people freeing the vanes on cars with oven cleaner and post above suggest brake cleaner and toothbrush to remove carbon build up that causes the variable vanes to stick, though yours sounds pretty well jammed. Do get lots of pics, it will help others later and at least something good can come of it.
volvo penta d3 turbo problems
See post 9. You may be able to recover it by removing turbo and cleaning the turbine on the hot side. I’ve heard of people freeing the vanes on cars with oven cleaner and post above suggest brake cleaner and toothbrush to remove carbon build up that causes the variable vanes to stick, though yours sounds pretty well jammed. Do get lots of pics, it will help others later and at least something good can come of it.
jrudge
Well-Known Member
I had this on a Williams rib. Salt water from cooling jacket.
If you put a socket on the nut on the end of the turbo you should be able to rotate it. Salt comes away with a tooth brush. Small ( small) amounts of water in a syringe also helps clean it up.
I would just take it off, clean, lubricate etc until it moves. The only critical part is the bearing, but I suspect here it is crud / corrosion between the vane and the body.
Over cleaner does work - but what it disolves is carbon which sometimes blocks the vanes. Carbon does not seem to be the issue here.
If you put a socket on the nut on the end of the turbo you should be able to rotate it. Salt comes away with a tooth brush. Small ( small) amounts of water in a syringe also helps clean it up.
I would just take it off, clean, lubricate etc until it moves. The only critical part is the bearing, but I suspect here it is crud / corrosion between the vane and the body.
Over cleaner does work - but what it disolves is carbon which sometimes blocks the vanes. Carbon does not seem to be the issue here.
JasonG
New Member
Yeah I found that thread yesterday after searching for D3 Turbo problems. I'm going to try some more to free it up. I did not have a socket that seemed to work on the small nut. The best fit was a 7mm but it is a different type of Nut so doesn't grab properly so going to Home Depot to find a better tool.
The source of the water was a leaky Sea Water filter that curiously sits right above the air cleaner that allowed the sea water spray to enter. In the picture you will see the salt deposits on the engine (air cleaner removed) and the location of the filter. Lesson learned on my side to be diligent on pre-trip checking.
I'd like to give the turbo removal & clean a go but worry about inducing some other mishap - and the bottom spring that holds the heat shield cover is a real SOB to access. Anyone have a good youtube link to a turbo removal for the D3?
On a side note, I received the Group 30 workshop manual that I purchased a week ago and it is loaded with great troubleshooting procedures and explanatory pictures.
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The Floridian
New Member
The Floridian:
Hello - I have a 2017 Regal 35 Sport Coupe with dual Volvo Penta D3-220A engines. From day one I had a "STEERING-FAULT" reading, that does not go away. I have had two different mechanics at my boat....paid already close to 35K $ in mechanics invoices and the same Steering fault problem still shows up. The mechanics exchanged 2 computers, a bunch of sensors, the main throttle, and the wiring already....still the same problem. Every time Volvo suggested a new possibility -the same fault shows up. And every time the port engine does not let me go over 1500 rpms. Does anybody have a suggestion ??? ANY help appreciated !!!