Dry out on slipway?

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Guys,

Planning to power wash and antifoul next week, have never done this before and hope to complete this in the following steps for a 26 foot fin keel yacht on slipway:-

1/ 45 mins after high water, position boat along side harbour wall slipway with approx 3" or 4" clearence between fenders and wall (this should allow the boat to lean onto the wall when tide falls).
2/ Using a line from the bow, pull the boat forward untill the keel touches bottom then tie off. (may have to slacken off this line as the water level reduces to allow boat to rest even on edge of keel).
3/ Tie off stern (slacken off as water level reduces).
4/ Place rope around the mast and as water level reduces pull in on mast rope which will help to rest the boat between the fenders and the harbour wall.
5/ at low water power wash, dry and antifoul hull.

Does this look OK or have I missed any steps?
Will I need to prop up hull for extra stability?
Will the boat sit on the keel OK, or drop at the stearn?

Cheers Cliff.
 
Hi Cliff


Welcome to the forum.
Sounds about right. You've probably already done this, but at low water, take a look at the bottom to see what it is like. If other locals dry there it will probably be OK. If the bottom is concrete or stone make sure you pick a nice calm day with no swell, you wouldn't want the keel dammaged due to pounding on the concrete.

You will not need to lean the boat over much, too far and you risk a) the keel slipping away from the wall, b) dammage to rigging if it touches the wall.
 
There was an article in PBO about this a little while ago. Apparently 5 degrees is the angle that you should slope towards the quayside at.

I'm hoping to do this myself for the first time soon. Let us know how you get on !
 
Agree with all of that but would add....

..the caution I was once told:-

NEVER dry out a fin keeler without first having dried it out before!

Which really just says to expect anything to happen until after it hasn't.

If the boat is a "conventional" parrallelogram keel shape with the foot fairly well parallel to the waterline and more or less longer than deep, you should be alright. Beware nose-dives too. This avoidance is another reason why some people flake out their bow chain on the side deck, not only to encourage lean towards the quay but to reduce the risk of the ground under the keel's forefoot giving way and generating an alarming dip.

I would start the scrubbing as soon as possible however for once the slime has dried, and it dries within minutes of being exposed on summer days, that jet washer will be working overtime.

Steve Cronin
 
The amount of space you allow at the fenders depends on the draught of your boat. If she draws 5 feet you are about right. If she draws 3 feet, you would be better to pull her in tight, as the compression in the fenders will allow her to heel over to the required angle. I would also prefer to make the boat fast with lines, springs and the mast line (and ballast weights on the side deck)and then wait for the tide to lower her gently onto the bottom.

Good luck! Neil
 
Thanks for the info guys.

Will do the following:-
1/ Bottom of slipway is concrete, will check that it is clear of stones etc during low tide, no problem with swell as slipway is well protected in inner harbour.
2/ Will set up a fender board to limit abrasion.
3/ Will pull out anchor chain and lay out on lean-to side looking for 5 degree angle to quayside.
4/ Will try and get some information on keel type (mystere flyer 26) to ensure she lies parrallel to water line.
5/ Will source some waders to allow cleaning of bottom ASAP.
6/ WILL LOOK OUT FOR THE UNEXPECTED !!!!!

Let you know how I get on.

Cheers Cliff.
 
Where are you based? If this is your first time I would suggest you see if you can find someone in your local club who would be prepared to "lend a hand".

Drying out against a wall or pier is not rocket science but things can go horribly wrong although from your last post you seem to have got the gist of what is needed.

Good luck what ever you wind up doing.
--------------------
hammer.thumb.gif
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
Don't forget the pub to visit whilst waiting for the return of the tide. Funny how it seems to take forever to come back. Tide that is, not the pub. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
No idea where in the world you are but I assume that your tidal curve shows that HW +45 means you won't be neaped by the next high tide being lower than the previous HW +45. This is the first fundamental.

If so, you could feel your way into the slip at HW -45 (assuming the curve is about the same shape either side of HW). This way you know how high the boat will be after you have ridden the tide up and then back down.

Second fundamental is to be sure if the condition of the bottom. Again, I assume it is a concrete slip, not wooden or steel beams to fall foul of.

By going in with the tide on the way up, you have plenty of time to rig long shore lines and springs fore and aft. If your lines are at least the length of the boat, keep them fairly tight. Once you dry the fenders will give enough to lean you in.

You also have plenty of time to weight the inside deck. I use the anchor and about 15m of chain, plus the emergency water can from the end of the boom, with boom lashed to landward.

Rig fenders high, and use a fender board if the quay is uneven.

In use a safety line around the mast, but the relative height of the quay has a bearing on this. I do not favour using halyards attached to shore. A large bowline round the mast then secured ashore allows vertical movement and prevents you from falling outwards.

Once she settles and starts to tilt backwards, adjust your lines accordingly, keeping her snug against the quay. Rig all lines so you can adjust from aboard.

As suggested elswhere, get on with the job in hand quick, jetting off whilst wet is a sinche, once dried is much harder. I always try to do the waterline from the dinghy by brush to get a head start. Once you have done with the ropes you will find that the first foot is dry.

No need to prop.

Most yachts are stern heavy when dry - they have much fatter arses to support it when afloat. However, most sit quite stable. We have engine, fuel, water and much fuller aft sections, all behind the keel, and have had 6 in the cockpit whilst awaiting the tide on Lymington slip, and she didn't tilt backwards, despite having a couple of fat arses in the cockpit too.

Have a couple of strong, long ropes to spare, and an idea of what you would do with then should the unthinkable want to occur.
 
Didn't see anyone mention how to get on/off the boat when the water has left it high and dry.

Our club has a ladder on the wall, so no other means needed, but if you planned to use a stern ladder this may not reach the ground.

Just a thought.

And it all takes much longer to happen than you expect, at least in my experience, so a book and some nice sandwiches can help if you're done scrubbing quickly!
 
We dried out last weekend. It was a nervous time (our first) but successfully managed by putting the spare fuel can and inflatable on the wall side - using a spirit level I was happy that the angle of heal was sufficient to prevent her falling away, but not so much that the keel could slip out.
Started on the pressurewasher as soon as it was welly depth - very quick and easy in the end! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Once again thanks for the info and help.
In answer to the last few post,s I am based in Peterhead N/E Scotland, have a pub very near to quay side and will have my son with me for a helping hand.

Cheers Cliff.
 
my experience of drying out is that people tend to induce too much lean towards the wall .The fenders will squash almost flat and you will be leaning more than you think.

A line from the mast ashore will stop her falling outwards even if she dries out bolt upright. I think the 5° you mentioned is about right but allow for the fenders squashing or that will double . All good fun . /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
When grounded, and to ensure the appropriate lean, take the main halyard and belay it to a fixed point on the shore so you can set the heel angle. This also acts as a backup to the warp tied to the mast at deck level. One word of warning Remember to release this rope before you set off after you are afloat again. It makes an interesting activity if you forget. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
we have dried out our fin keeler several times - without drama - however do be aware of the critical stage which is when the keel is just settling as the tide goes out-for a few minutes the boat is vulnerable to being bounced or moved by any wash from passing boats as she is in the transition between being fully afloat and fully aground and vital to minimise movement then - be especially wary of any wash from passing boats if in an at all exposed area as then is the time when your boat is at risk of being disturbed as she settles- of course if your slip is protected then no problem as long as minimal movement of crew on board for those few minutes especially,
 
A fin keel boat doesn't need to lean much. Around the vertical you can push and pull them very easily indeed. So there is little chance of it leaning away from the wall as you have made fast with warps. I had a side bar come apart on my trailer which allowed the boat to lean over at quite an angle, whilst I was towing. It only took three of us to push the boat back upright and resecure the upright, and suprisingly easy it was.
 
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