Dropping the foot

Been advised by a chap who has dropped numerous that I remove the cowls under the engine block and place timber at top and bottom (at the lower foot unit) on each side and use two car jacks to 'jack' the lower foot unit off.

Trying to design a clamp for the lower foot unit.


Considering 2"x4" with 1/2" threaded rod, washers and nuts. Will post sketch.

Any other suggestions?
 
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Must have been on a while, the modern 4 poppers tend to be worse with finer splines. Had a few like this, always good for bringing on a sweat. Try and open up a small gap by using rubber or hide mallet on the bullet, a screwdriver may be required too. Then try and drive some plastic wedges in, Google mould release wedges, fire it up and knock it in and out of gear to give the splines a rattle. Put a couple of bolts in loose so that if it goes with a bang then it won't drop off completely and mash the end of the splines. I find swearing helps
 
roy851 said:
Must have been on a while, the modern 4 poppers tend to be worse with finer splines. Had a few like this, always good for bringing on a sweat. Try and open up a small gap by using rubber or hide mallet on the bullet, a screwdriver may be required too. Then try and drive some plastic wedges in, Google mould release wedges, fire it up and knock it in and out of gear to give the splines a rattle. Put a couple of bolts in loose so that if it goes with a bang then it won't drop off completely and mash the end of the splines. I find swearing helps
Click to expand...

Yes about 11 years.

Thanks for the info re the mould wedges.

Bolts in loose is a good idea.

I have already commenced on the swearing input.
 
jfm said:
Good idea imho if it's really well stuck, as it might well be @ 11 years. I'd prefer to use hydraulic jacks than screw type. Hydraulics are <$20 on eBay these days iirc
Click to expand...

It is REALLY WELL AND TRUELY STUCK

Set up timber framework using 1/2" (10mm) threaded rods to spread the topped bottom framework apart. These bowed. :ambivalence:

Re set up timber framework using 3/4" (10mm) threaded rods to spread the topped bottom framework apart. The 2x4's (fairly short) are bending!!!

I am afraid to apply more force as it could pull the shaft out of the bearings and destroy the engine.


Contemplating:

Removing the engine.
Drilling a hole +/- 1/4" into the leg. Check on an old wrecked engine where to drill.
Turningthe engine upside down.
Applying 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid (GREAT freeing up liquid* ) to the shaft through the 1/4" via a straw.
Wait a day and reapply, repeat for several days, morning and night. - Acetone evaporates quickly.
Retrying the timber framework
IF the shaft comes out, replace the water pump impeller and reassemble.
Filling hole with epoxy.


My (he who uses the boat most) son's suggestion is that ' I get two new engines'!!!! :disgust:

OTHER HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS?



* I used the 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid to free up iron bolts in an old fourposter bed tha had not been moved for 60+ years. Worked a treat.
 
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other than the obvious M12 and bigger blocks of wood :D I assume you do hit it with a mallet once under tension right?
Penetrating oils, tension and a bit of heat on the area where the two pieces mate would help

good luck, looks like you're going to need it

V.
 
Rum_Pirate said:
It is REALLY WELL AND TRUELY STUCK

Set up timber framework using 1/2" (10mm) threaded rods to spread the topped bottom framework apart. These bowed. :ambivalence:

Re set up timber framework using 3/4" (10mm) threaded rods to spread the topped bottom framework apart. The 2x4's (fairly short) are bending!!!

I am afraid to apply more force as it could pull the shaft out of the bearings and destroy the engine.


Contemplating:

Removing the engine.
Drilling a hole +/- 1/4" into the leg. Check on an old wrecked engine where to drill.
Turningthe engine upside down.
Applying 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid (GREAT freeing up liquid* ) to the shaft through the 1/4" via a straw.
Wait a day and reapply, repeat for several days, morning and night. - Acetone evaporates quickly.
Retrying the timber framework
IF the shaft comes out, replace the water pump impeller and reassemble.
Filling hole with epoxy.


My (he who uses the boat most) son's suggestion is that ' I get two new engines'!!!! :disgust:

OTHER HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS?



* I used the 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid to free up iron bolts in an old fourposter bed tha had not been moved for 60+ years. Worked a treat.
Click to expand...

I agree with your son!:encouragement::encouragement:
 
As jfm said in an earlier post, the main thing is to drop the gearbox regularly, I suggest every year, to prevent the grease on the splines from becoming a very effective adhesive and the stainless dowels from locking in ever decreasing alloy pockets.

I appreciate this doesn't help you now but I'm a firm believer that adhering to manufacturer's service schedules is an effective way of preventing these problems.
 
I think you would be urinating into the wind by trying the penetrating oil method. You son is probably right! But if you don't like being beaten...
Never tried either method but have considered it,
1. Drill a hole in the skeg, stick shackle through, attach slide hammer and give it some welly. You would benefit from the shock factor and a hole in the skeg would be easy enough to fill.
2. Drill a hole in the mid section and stick the air chizel/kango on the driveshaft whilst pushing the leg
Both a bit brutal but it really does need a bit of a rattle
 
I like your wood set up- good stuff.

I would invest in 2x $20 hydraulic jacks and push the wood apart using them. Position them close to the forward long 10mm studs, in line with the engine drive shaft. Maybe put a ratchet strap (like a belt) around the engine and both jacks, to stop them pinging out.

This will provide more/better force than just winding the nuts.

Don’t worry about pulling uber hard. The seized shaft will come out long before the engine bearings /crankshaft thrust retaining elements break.

Just pump the hydraulic jacks very hard!

It isn’t the gear change linkage that is causing this problem. If it were that, the lower unit would move down a couple of multimeters. This is a seized drive shaft spline and /or seized dowels.

If you want to cut a hole in the side of the leg and blow torch the stuck splines then great, but try it cold first imho.
 
It isn’t the gear change linkage that is causing this problem. If it were that, the lower unit would move down a couple of multimeters. This is a seized drive shaft spline and /or seized dowels.
Click to expand...
I had not realised it was an electrical fault!:D
 
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