Drop Keel Winch help

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jpay

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Hello,

The drop keel on a dauntless 22 is currently using a rope and block purchase system but the 4' x 2' galvanise plate is still very heavy. I want to add a small hand winch to lift the keel, making it easier. Does anyone know where I can source a small winch, be nice if it was bronze or classic in style.

Thank You
 
Lakesailor said:
That looks like the dinghy winch I had on my Solo. It wouldn't have enough grunt.
Get a trailer winch and spray it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manual-12..._Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item4606161723
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I wouldn't use that for a keel, because there is no easy and controlled way to lower it. Once the ratchet is off you're fighting it with the handle.

or for a bit more money, something tidier http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Han...onstruction_Tools_ET&var=&hash=item27d1bf8327 which is available in stainless.
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My lifting keel boat uses a Dutton Lainson brake winch which is getting a bit elderly and will need replacement soon, so thanks for that link.
 
Rigger Mortice said:
Would it be possible to swap the block and tackle for one with more grunt?
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It might help if I was to increase the diameter of the rope to give myself more to pull on, the purchase is original and it is useable but when we first got the boat the centerboard had dropped too far and it caused some great headaches to re-lift it. A winch would give us the ultimate control and prevent it from slipping any further.

I think I would leave the blocks in place because they give a nice angle of pull for the winch anyway so its more of a personal modification.

Not personal enough to spend £300 on a bronze winch although it would definatly look the best. I think I might try and get an old second hand trailer winch to test out the idea first and if its good then buy the brake winch for permanent.

Thanks everyone.
 
Dutton Lainson, Nebraska are a thriving outfit, an 1100lb braked trailer style winch ( uses 6mm flexible galvanised 7X19 wire ) is around £120.

Very helpful outfit, they even told me which ship it was coming on with progress reports !

They have a good online catalogue.
 
What's your engineering skills?

How about an arrangement like on my boat?

There's a lead screw, nearly 2 feet long, driven by a winch handle. It takes 50 turns to wind it end to end. A nut on that lead screw travels it's length and pulls the keel up via stainless rope over a couple of pulleys.

It fits neatly on the side of the keel box, just under the table (that forms the top of the keel box). and of course being a lead screw, if you stop turning, the keel stays exactly where it is.

In the picture, the lead screw is inside the black tube seen here at the bottom of the picture.

asset.php
 
An 8 and three quarter inch drum with nearly 3" width jaws is NOT a dinghy winch. If this is an East Coast Dauntless 22 with a centre board, you will find this perfectly adequate (I know because I had a 25ft centre boarder). I suspect if a 4' x 2' plate is difficult to lift you need to examine the pivot pin.
 
tillergirl said:
An 8 and three quarter inch drum with nearly 3" width jaws is NOT a dinghy winch. If this is an East Coast Dauntless 22 with a centre board, you will find this perfectly adequate (I know because I had a 25ft centre boarder). I suspect if a 4' x 2' plate is difficult to lift you need to examine the pivot pin.
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It's possible with pivoted plates that a groove can wear in the plate hole, making it difficult to move; there was a case here recently with a Finesse 24 suffering this, the answer seemed to be raising the plate to get the pivot bolt down to the round hole again - then working on the removed and thinking about fitting a bush.

Otherwise I'd think build up of paint and / or rust is the culprit.
 
Seajet said:
It's possible with pivoted plates that a groove can wear in the plate hole, making it difficult to move; there was a case here recently with a Finesse 24 suffering this, the answer seemed to be raising the plate to get the pivot bolt down to the round hole again - then working on the removed and thinking about fitting a bush.

Otherwise I'd think build up of paint and / or rust is the culprit.
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Absolutely. This is something I looked at each winter. It is something to be serviced. Fortunately with mine, I had wear on the bolt and the hole but replacing the bolt was sufficient. I didn't need any tackle other than a drum for the uphaul. I did need a prodder which went through the small hole in the top of the centre board to push it down from time to time in case some mud jammed the board up. Note to the OP - don't know how your tackle is attached to the top of the board but that's well worth ensuring it is sound. In my early days, I failed to maintain it and it gave way one weekend and the plate went down over centre and of course had no uphaul. That was a tad difficult to resolve and best avoided.
 
tillergirl said:
Absolutely. This is something I looked at each winter. It is something to be serviced. Fortunately with mine, I had wear on the bolt and the hole but replacing the bolt was sufficient. I didn't need any tackle other than a drum for the uphaul. I did need a prodder which went through the small hole in the top of the centre board to push it down from time to time in case some mud jammed the board up. Note to the OP - don't know how your tackle is attached to the top of the board but that's well worth ensuring it is sound. In my early days, I failed to maintain it and it gave way one weekend and the plate went down over centre and of course had no uphaul. That was a tad difficult to resolve and best avoided.
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This is exactly the condition of the board when we bought the boat,
The pin has been replaced but it was with a threaded rod rather than smooth pin I know this wasn't perfect but I didn't want the boat out of the water for too long.

I think I'm just going to look into some of the other ideas suggested and play with designs until I produce something which suits me.

The image didn't show up so it would be great if you could try and address that as I'd be interested in seeing it.

It is a dauntless east coast cruiser, I think the rope we have may be part of the problem as it isn't very thick and makes hauling difficult.

Thank You everyone, a wealth of knowledge
 
jpay said:
This is exactly the condition of the board when we bought the boat,
The pin has been replaced but it was with a threaded rod rather than smooth pin I know this wasn't perfect but I didn't want the boat out of the water for too long.

I think I'm just going to look into some of the other ideas suggested and play with designs until I produce something which suits me.

The image didn't show up so it would be great if you could try and address that as I'd be interested in seeing it.

It is a dauntless east coast cruiser, I think the rope we have may be part of the problem as it isn't very thick and makes hauling difficult.
Click to expand...

It certainly pays to have a decent size bit of rope that your hands can get a grip on. It's a while now since I owned that boat but I recall that the attachment to the plate inside the case was wire connected to a rope round a pulley that went to a wooden drum (about the size of the Davey product) and you just hauled away. Was critical that the plate didn't go down too far otherwise the uphaul was over centre.

Not sure what you mean by the image not showing up?

Have a look at http://www.dauntless-association.org.uk/
 
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jpay said:
It might help if I was to increase the diameter of the rope to give myself more to pull on, the purchase is original and it is useable but when we first got the boat the centerboard had dropped too far and it caused some great headaches to re-lift it. A winch would give us the ultimate control and prevent it from slipping any further.
Click to expand...

What I meant when I asked about a block and tackle with more "grunt" was one with greater mechanical advantage....ie. more sheaves. But I have no idea if it would be possible to fit one.
 
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