Drilling out Monel

[VicS]

No, Tosh, it's your name out there.

The point is its not. Vyv Cox uses his real name

INFIDEL82 is not using his real name. Presumably thats why why Stu asked if he was a "sock puppet", as well as branding him a "person of wealth or high social position". Strangely one or both of these was deemed to constitute personal abuse.

 

[NormanS]

I can't imagine any pop rivets being made from hardened alloy steel, being used anywhere on a boat. I've never had any difficulty in drilling out monel pop rivets with ordinary HSS drills. You don't need to drill the whole rivet, just enough to let you punch it through.

 

[macd]

The point is its not. Vyv Cox uses his real name

INFIDEL82 is not using his real name. Presumably thats why why Stu asked if he was a "sock puppet", as well as branding him a "person of wealth or high social position". Strangely one or both of these was deemed to constitute personal abuse.

With true respect, Vic, the name that came out tarnished was Infidel's, however anonymous. Vyv's still lacks surface corrosion

 

[Heckler]

The point is its not. Vyv Cox uses his real name

INFIDEL82 is not using his real name. Presumably thats why why Stu asked if he was a "sock puppet", as well as branding him a "person of wealth or high social position". Strangely one or both of these was deemed to constitute personal abuse.

Just one got punished, me! A yellow card! 1 point!
S

 

[sailorman]

Managed to drill some out up the mast last weekend using Dormer HSS drills, need to be sharp so a new drill bit might be advisable

Or learn how to sharpen hss bits

 

[VicS]

Or learn how to sharpen hss bits

FWIW I bought a drill sharpening machine. Can't remember the exact sizes it will do but it won't do the small ones ( or the big ones) and although it gets the angles correct it is still possible to get them lopsided. If they are lopsided they don't run true and you get oversized holes.

 

[sailorman]

FWIW I bought a drill sharpening machine. Can't remember the exact sizes it will do but it won't do the small ones ( or the big ones) and although it gets the angles correct it is still possible to get them lopsided. If they are lopsided they don't run true and you get oversized holes.

I manage to sharpen hss freehand. It just takes practice

 

[rogerthebodger]

FWIW I bought a drill sharpening machine. Can't remember the exact sizes it will do but it won't do the small ones ( or the big ones) and although it gets the angles correct it is still possible to get them lopsided. If they are lopsided they don't run true and you get oversized holes.

I had to learn how to sharpen drills as part of my engineering apprenticeship. My first job we to sharpen all the drills used in the factory of about 30-40 skilled fitters and fabricators and if they weren't right I had to do then again until they were right. At the time I did not like but now I and very grateful they did.

The only drills I don't resharpen are smaller then 3mm dia.

I also bought several a drill sharpening machine for the very small drills, still no good so I still sharpen by hand. I have even sharpened carbide tipped drills to try to drill steel reinforced concrete using a green carbide stone I use for my lathe tools.

IMHO the main reason drills and taps are broken is due to offset (bending) load when drilling and the deeper the hole the easer it is to break. So just taking the head off the rivet will reduce this possibility. taps also tend to break in the same way and note there are hand taps and machine taps, Machine taps will break at the smallest side load as they ar harder as tapping machines have no bending component unlike when hand tapping.

 

[William_H]

A few simple tips for sharpening drills. First get a decent sized drill in good condition. Note the angles especially of the cutting angle which is of course where they get bluntened. Start with larger drills. You cna use just an oil stone with the drill bit in a vice. That will be very slow but will help. The biggest danger using a rotating grinding wheel is that you take too much off and or get the bit tto hot and damage heat treatment. So go slowly and examine the shape very closely. You need to take some material off the shoulder to get the cutting angle right. Try the bit on an old bit of steel in a drill press.(high pressure) You should be able to cut a continuous swathe of metal if it is sharp. Sharpen bits long before they get really blunt and damaged. If they are broken or realoly badly damaged then it takes great skill to resharpen. good lcuk olewill

 

[John the kiwi]

I had to learn how to sharpen drills as part of my engineering apprenticeship. My first job we to sharpen all the drills used in the factory of about 30-40 skilled fitters and fabricators and if they weren't right I had to do then again until they were right. At the time I did not like but now I and very grateful they did.

The only drills I don't resharpen are smaller then 3mm dia.

I also bought several a drill sharpening machine for the very small drills, still no good so I still sharpen by hand. I have even sharpened carbide tipped drills to try to drill steel reinforced concrete using a green carbide stone I use for my lathe tools.

IMHO the main reason drills and taps are broken is due to offset (bending) load when drilling and the deeper the hole the easer it is to break. So just taking the head off the rivet will reduce this possibility. taps also tend to break in the same way and note there are hand taps and machine taps, Machine taps will break at the smallest side load as they ar harder as tapping machines have no bending component unlike when hand tapping.

learned to hand sharpen drills as an apprentice. Check
Have sharpened Tungsten Carbide drills to drill steel reinforced concrete. Check.
Know the diff between hand and machine taps. Check.
Are you my antipodean twin by any chance
But you dont hand sharpen drills smaller than 3 mm. ?
Well heres a tip. like many young men in their fifties i was disconcerted to discover that i needed reading glasses, - or longer arms and binoculars.
I only use 1 diopter for reading and general close up work but have bought some cheap 3 diopter reading glasses specifically for fine machining work such as drill and tool sharpening.
Its like wearing a pair of magnifying glasses- cos thats exactly what you are doing.
The depth of focus is rubbish and i get a headache if i use them for long, but to be able to focus on those small things is brilliant.
Cheers

 

[rogerthebodger]

Well heres a tip. like many young men in their fifties i was disconcerted to discover that i needed reading glasses, - or longer arms and binoculars.
Cheers

Young men in there fifties I wish, its been a long time since I saw fifties.

I have worn glasses since I was 15 and now have to use varifocal lenses.

Regrinding 3mm drills its not so much seeing what I am doing in most cases very small drills get broken and I cannot be bothered to grind the whole tip profile, thats if the drill has any twist left.

My problem is fine soldering and maybe I should look into seperate reading glasses. I just don't like to admit i'm getting old.

I like OldsaltOZ sig "growing old on unavoidable, growing up is optional"

 

[Spirit of Glenans]

Monel is not hardened alloy steel.... not even steel ...

Monels... there is a range of them ..........are alloys of copper and nickel!
So also are coins, which are particularly difficult to drill, the euro type anyway



and one of the more highly respected names on these forums!


BTW , "welcome" to the forums

 

[VicS]

Spirit of Glenans

You mis quote me .... I said nothing about coins!

Then you say nothing youself !

BTW 1p and 2p coins are copperplated steel, 5p and 10 p are nickel plated steel

20 p and 50 p are cupronickel

£1 are nickel brass

£2 are a combination of cupronickel and nickel brass


I guess the plated steel coins are more difficult to drill than the cupro nickel or nickel brass ones!

 

[Spirit of Glenans]

Spirit of Glenans

You mis quote me .... I said nothing about coins!

Then you say nothing youself !

BTW 1p and 2p coins are copperplated steel, 5p and 10 p are nickel plated steel

20 p and 50 p are cupronickel

£1 are nickel brass

£2 are a combination of cupronickel and nickel brass


I guess the plated steel coins are more difficult to drill than the cupro nickel or nickel brass ones!

So that's why they are magnetic