drilling at 90 degrees...

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gjgm

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I have removed a piano hinge from a tight space using this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW...071941?hash=item4b0a57c705:g:GWoAAOSwXSJXOaVn

(which as long as you dont need much torque, works quite well for a few quid).
The problem is the replacement hinge has the drill holes in different spaces, so I need to drill some 1 to 1.5mm pilot holes in the grp, but in a very tight space, so a normal offset drill is too large to fit... ie, this kind of thing...
http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-d...-only-506696?gclid=CLqs7Nrc688CFdYK0wodtlQM9g

I have less than 10cm space, I reckon.
So, how do I do this, without spending £££ on a mini tool I need for 60 seconds ?
 
gjgm said:
I have removed a piano hinge from a tight space using this



The problem is the replacement hinge has the drill holes in different spaces, so I need to drill some 1 to 1.5mm pilot holes in the grp, but in a very tight space,

I have less than 10cm space, I reckon.
So, how do I do this, without spending £££ on a mini tool I need for 60 seconds ?
Click to expand...

Too late now I suppose to suggest buying an undrilled hinge and drilling it to the same spacing as the old one ?????
 
If there's that little space, epoxy the hinge on and hope you'll never have to remove it again. Next time you shop boats you'll know to look for maintenance access as an important feature :)
 
what is the depth of that-given there is also the drill bit length too, please ?
The angled drill heads, I am refering too!
A bradawl might work, thanks, but I think again it is too long- and do you think it will work through gelcoat and grp, which is pretty tough?
 
A good bradawl will certainly make a pilot hole for a no 4 screw in fibre glass.The point is not round it's triangular.
Or you could use one of those jewelers screwdrivers that come in little sets,but a bit hard to get a good grip on.
 
I also would go for a bradawl, but as you say if you can puncture gel coat. Hammer and twist is the method I use in cabinetmaking. All you need is a starter hole for the screw and then you can start them slowly with your angled driver and straighten for the first turn or two, if you get my meaning?
 
Seashoreman said:
I also would go for a bradawl, but as you say if you can puncture gel coat. Hammer and twist is the method I use in cabinetmaking. All you need is a starter hole for the screw and then you can start them slowly with your angled driver and straighten for the first turn or two, if you get my meaning?
Click to expand...

Right, lets give he bradawl a go, if I can find one short enough!
 
parsifal said:
http://www.gsparkplug.com/sealey-ak2104-angle-driver.html?gclid=COitq5Pg688CFXAA0wodkWoIMQ

I have one of these. You can get a small chuck to fit it. Or drill bits that will fit into it without a chuck

http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-q...tracking url&gclid=CKiS5-Lg688CFUETGwodIscKyw
Click to expand...

This has got to be the best idea I think, as the attachment will fit in the drill and the bits which are hex head will then fit in that. If the whole length is too big, You could cut the drill bits down in length and then re sharpen them on a grind stone to a close to a rough, or as close to the original cutting angle as you can get. As the drill bits are only approx. 1.5 - 2mm in dia, it probably wouldn't matter if the angle of the drill bit end was not exactly right?
I didn’t know that little tool was available, and will have to get one as I have had several times when I have been in the same position as OP.

Thanks Parsifal for the link

Philip
 
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