Drifting, no wind, can't restart engine.... Any ideas?

[jamiepyoung]

Why do you think the engine stopped the second time? Were the filters clear that time?

Richard

After much cleaning, changing all filters, blowing all the fuel lines through and head scratching, we fitted a small hand pump to the fuel line before the primary filter (so straight from the fuel tank) and that was blocked. We couldn't suck the fuel through, so reversed the pump and eventually managed to clear the line.

After that we just couldn't get the engine started and we flattened the batteries. About 13.30 (approx 19 hours after the engine stopped) we tried just once more (just before somebody set off from Cartagena to tow us) and it started! We guess we just needed a bit more charge in the batteries to get it going.

We need to get the tanks fully cleaned, but our access to the tank is limited, so that's our next job....

 

[Sandyman]

And if you've got the room/space fit a fuel header tank as high as you can get it above your lift pump. Let gravity due the bleeding for you. Saves a lot of messing about.

 

[Poey50]

I had my share of contaminated fuel problems last year and I made several simple changes - mostly following advice from this forum.

1. I carry a fuel polishing system with an intake pipe that can reach down to the base of the tank. I use a minimum of twice per year and more often if there is any sign of bug or water.

2. Spin-on Racor primary filter replacing the harder-to-change CAV

3. A ball valve to shut off the fuel for filter change.

4. A priming bulb between tank and primary filter to make bleeding easier.

5. A vacuum gauge between tank and primary filter to keep an eye on flow through the primary filter.

6. Coating the fuel cap threads with grease after every filling to avoid water ingress.

7. Regular use of Marine 16 biocide.

I sleep easier these days.

 

[Sandyman]

I sleep easier these days.

..........and so you should do, as should everyone else by following your example. Make life so much easier if & when you get a problem.

 

[sniffyjenkins]

Glad you got in to Cartagena OK and all is sorted. I've loved reading your blog posts!

(Also, RIP Ray. Our autopilot is also called Ray.)

 

[jamiepyoung]

Glad you got in to Cartagena OK and all is sorted. I've loved reading your blog posts!

(Also, RIP Ray. Our autopilot is also called Ray.)

Thank you - Rosemary is the author, she writes very well I think (I am slightly biased though).

Ray MkII is now in play - we must add him to the crew list actually!

 

[sniffyjenkins]

Thank you - Rosemary is the author, she writes very well I think (I am slightly biased though).

Ray MkII is now in play - we must add him to the crew list actually!

She writes wonderfully and is very funny!

Long live Ray II.

 

[prv]

I had my share of contaminated fuel problems last year and I made several simple changes - mostly following advice from this forum.
...

I know I've posted these before, but it's still a system I'm quite pleased with .

Easy access from the aft passageway. Note the strap-wrench and bleeding spanners mounted on the bulkhead just inside the door.

Dual spin-on primary filters with bowls and drains, with a valve to quickly change from a blocked one to the backup.
Single secondary filter mounted adjacent, to keep all the mess in one place.
Access plate on top of the tank.

GRP splashback / drip tray to catch any spilled diesel; jug fits below the filters to catch what's drained out during changes:

Flow and return (and heater) shut-off valves, and outboard-style hand pump for bleeding/priming. Sorry for the poor photo.
The return system on this engine allows the air from the top of a changed filter to be pushed all the way through and back into the tank down the return line, so I don't actually need to open the filter bleed screws. Just change the filter and then squeeze the hand-pump until the tank makes a bubbling noise and then stops again.

Vacuum gauge connected between primary filter and lift pump, and mounted next to the companionway where it's easy to check.
I take a quick look at it (like a pilot checking his engine gauges before manoeuvering) before motoring into places where a sudden engine stoppage would be a serious problem.
I'm now happy to leave my filters in place for longer, because I can see how clogged they are. The time before the needle starts rising (which it does very slowly for normal filter consumption, over days or weeks not minutes or hours) turns out to vary a great deal depending on the cleanliness of fuel taken on over the year.

This was all driven by a serious bug infestation in place when we bought the boat - most of the additions were an attempt to manage it, but finally I was forced to cut the access hatch and clean it out. But now I'm left with a very capable and easy-to-live-with system.

Pete

 

[Poey50]

I know I've posted these before, but it's still a system I'm quite pleased with . ..

That's the gold-standard version! Excellent job.

 

[prv]

That's the gold-standard version! Excellent job.

Thanks. Of course, a real gold-standard version would also have a day-tank, more than one main tank, one or more inter-tank filters, and an electric transfer pump and manifold to move fuel around between it all. Basically a plumbed-in version of your portable polishing system. For long-distance cruising I'd also consider adding a deck fitting and off-board hose to the manifold, allowing the transfer pump to suck in fuel from drums on quaysides or in small boats, or offload some fuel to a fellow sailor in need. But all of that stuff is way, way OTT for a 34-foot Channel cruiser

Pete

 

[NormanS]

The other simple way to maintain clean fuel and clean tanks, is for each tank to have a small sump with a drain valve.
I transfer fuel between tanks, if required, using a dinghy pump. Temporarily block the breather, then pump into the filler, open the cross-levelling pipe.