Draining shallow water from bilge

Syringe

if you can reach, i use a plastic turkey baster to get the last cup ot 2 out...

Large syringe (with a short fuel pipe extension) from the pharmacist (cost 1.38 Euro) through the hole drilled to lift the floorboards. Job done in 30 secs. I have a Rule for shifting volume, a Jabsco gulper with non-return close to the strumbox (which is very flat in the bottom of the bilge) and I still can't get it all out. There always seems to be a small amount which flows back once the pump is off. So the syringe works for me.
 
Thank you for all your suggestions. I can't reply to each one individually, but I'm sure I'll find a solution to pumping out from one or more of them. Fed up with my lack of success, SWMBO is determined to find the source of the water herself and armed with an electric screwdriver is about to lift all of the B****y floorboards, empty all the storage compartments and crawl into every space - what a woman! If she finds the leak, then I will be happy to loan her out to any others with the same problem.

To answer a couple of questions raised earlier: My boat is a 2006 AWB, deck stepped mast, solid plastic fresh water tank, no leaky portholes/windows/hatches etc. The cockpit shower does not work (no water, hot or cold, comes out when turned on), I haven't check the cockpit lockers for rain ingress, but will now do so - thanks for that suggestion which I hadn't thought of.and yes the fresh water pump does have to keep topping up the water pressure periodically.
The amount of leaked water has increased throughout the non-summer, so something is getting worse.
 
Thank you for all your suggestions. I can't reply to each one individually, but I'm sure I'll find a solution to pumping out from one or more of them. Fed up with my lack of success, SWMBO is determined to find the source of the water herself and armed with an electric screwdriver is about to lift all of the B****y floorboards, empty all the storage compartments and crawl into every space - what a woman! If she finds the leak, then I will be happy to loan her out to any others with the same problem.

To answer a couple of questions raised earlier: My boat is a 2006 AWB, deck stepped mast, solid plastic fresh water tank, no leaky portholes/windows/hatches etc. The cockpit shower does not work (no water, hot or cold, comes out when turned on), I haven't check the cockpit lockers for rain ingress, but will now do so - thanks for that suggestion which I hadn't thought of.and yes the fresh water pump does have to keep topping up the water pressure periodically.
The amount of leaked water has increased throughout the non-summer, so something is getting worse.

It may be too late by the time you read this but you won't learn anything by pulling the boat apart ... lockers, floorboards etc. Generally water moves around too much to establish the source of the problem You have a leak after the electric pump. It's that simple. It's why the pump keeps topping up the system.

The shower not working is interesting. What I'm guessing may have happened is, as said above, the pipes have twisted, which has stopped the flow. This COULD cause the pipe to fail but mine is 'steel' reinforced to protect against such an event.

Just wrap every connection in tissue paper and wait. It really is pain free:)

As an aside and really not meaning to be rude, do you know how to operate the transom shower? The reason I ask is that it took me several years :rolleyes: to realise that the hot/cold control which twists to control the temp. also has a side to side movement which controls the flow. Time after time I wondered why when I pushed the button on the shower head, sometimes it flowed freely, other times I would just get a dribble. I just suspected that something in the locker was sitting on the pipes. Felt a bit silly when I found out :eek::)
 
You might want to do as I have done.

Go to your local car scrapyard. find a windscreen washer pump. Fit appropriate tubing to the inlet/outlet - the shorter the better. Make electrical connections to your boat battery by 'crocodile clips'.

It will self prime and produce a satisfactory high speed stream of bilge water.

Cost? a fiver?

Anyone know of an inexpensive 12 volt bilge pump for draining water too shallow for normal bilge pumps? Probably the in-line type which I could just direct into a bucket or the sink. My fitted bilge pump only lifts down to the last inch of depth as the pumps filter guard lifts the intake up off the bilge floor. Although an inch doesn't sound like much water, over the large shallow hull area it takes some mopping up. Therefore, if I could simply direct a length of plastic pick up tube where needed I could probably get to most of it. Yes, I am trying my best to discover where the fresh water is coming from, but so far no success.
I have searched through Google, but most pumps seem to have the same filter guard problem as mine, or they are expensive in-line pumps over-spec'd for my purpose.
Thanks
 
Do you have a calorifier? If so, check the pressure relief valve - I had the same problem with water in a shallow bilge and found that it was due to the relief valve lifting when the engine was running and the fresh water pump was left on. I have since cured the problem by a) only switching the FW pump on when I need it and b) fitting a small piece of tube from the relief valve to a small tupperware box close by - this catches any dribbles and only needs emptying once a month or so. See earlier posts by me and others on this subject.
 
BAV34 Quote: As an aside and really not meaning to be rude, do you know how to operate the transom shower? The reason I ask is that it took me several years to realise that the hot/cold control which twists to control the temp. also has a side to side movement which controls the flow. Time after time I wondered why when I pushed the button on the shower head, sometimes it flowed freely, other times I would just get a dribble. I just suspected that something in the locker was sitting on the pipes. Felt a bit silly when I found out: end quote.

I assure you, you are not being rude. It is quite some time since I tried the shower so I can't remember if I sussed out the controls properly. I will have a fresh look when I am next at the boat.
Thanks
 
Large syringe (with a short fuel pipe extension) from the pharmacist (cost 1.38 Euro) through the hole drilled to lift the floorboards. Job done in 30 secs.

Like the one I've got for topping up water (hush - from the dehumidifier!) in batteries.

And /just/ like the one I've got in the garage for topping up brake/clutch fluid.
 
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