Domestic Electrics MR16 Downlighters Help !

[NigelFortune]

Am getting fed up changing the bulbs and bulb holders in our downlite kitchen. After only a few months I find that the bulbs go, and burn back the wiring from the bulb holder towards the chocolate block connector that connects to the transformer. The downlighters are the fire retardent type with a cover over the top to stop any flames going up into the ceiling. The bulbs are MR16 Aluminium which I believe are supposed to deflect the heat downwards. I have tried 3 types of bulb holder, with ordinary cable, ptfe cable, and silicon cable, which all burn back. Looking at the bulb there is always one pin that is discoloured the one where the cable has burnt back. I have recently tried sleeving the cables near to the holder with fiber glass sleeving but I dont hold out too much hope. I believe it's down to contact resistance between the bulb and the holder but have no idea how to overcome the problem. Everytime I change the bulb holder I have to remove the complete lamp from the ceiling which is not doing the plaster a lot of good. After doing this I always pull the loose cable back so there is no coil of wire in the back of the lamp. Is there anybody out there had a similar problem. This has been an ongoing problem for 4 years over which I must have changed everyone of the 16 at least twice ! Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Strathglass]

Am getting fed up changing the bulbs and bulb holders in our downlite kitchen. After only a few months I find that the bulbs go, and burn back the wiring from the bulb holder towards the chocolate block connector that connects to the transformer. The downlighters are the fire retardent type with a cover over the top to stop any flames going up into the ceiling. The bulbs are MR16 Aluminium which I believe are supposed to deflect the heat downwards. I have tried 3 types of bulb holder, with ordinary cable, ptfe cable, and silicon cable, which all burn back. Looking at the bulb there is always one pin that is discoloured the one where the cable has burnt back. I have recently tried sleeving the cables near to the holder with fiber glass sleeving but I dont hold out too much hope. I believe it's down to contact resistance between the bulb and the holder but have no idea how to overcome the problem. Everytime I change the bulb holder I have to remove the complete lamp from the ceiling which is not doing the plaster a lot of good. After doing this I always pull the loose cable back so there is no coil of wire in the back of the lamp. Is there anybody out there had a similar problem. This has been an ongoing problem for 4 years over which I must have changed everyone of the 16 at least twice ! Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

The way to solve your problem is to fit energy efficient bulbs either Led's or any other type.

Because they are much more efficient they generate much less heat and you will have much less damage to the holders.

I have had to do this to mine.

Iain

 

[Bilgediver]

Am getting fed up changing the bulbs and bulb holders in our downlite kitchen. After only a few months I find that the bulbs go, and burn back the wiring from the bulb holder towards the chocolate block connector that connects to the transformer. The downlighters are the fire retardent type with a cover over the top to stop any flames going up into the ceiling. The bulbs are MR16 Aluminium which I believe are supposed to deflect the heat downwards. I have tried 3 types of bulb holder, with ordinary cable, ptfe cable, and silicon cable, which all burn back. Looking at the bulb there is always one pin that is discoloured the one where the cable has burnt back. I have recently tried sleeving the cables near to the holder with fiber glass sleeving but I dont hold out too much hope. I believe it's down to contact resistance between the bulb and the holder but have no idea how to overcome the problem. Everytime I change the bulb holder I have to remove the complete lamp from the ceiling which is not doing the plaster a lot of good. After doing this I always pull the loose cable back so there is no coil of wire in the back of the lamp. Is there anybody out there had a similar problem. This has been an ongoing problem for 4 years over which I must have changed everyone of the 16 at least twice ! Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

I hope you keep a fire extinguisher handy on the deck above

have you kept sound and thermal insulation well away from the downlighter shroud.

There is a discussion here.

http://www.ebuild.co.uk/forums/messages/770/22457.html?1263236024


Google will help you find many more..

 

[elton]

I had similar problems with a set of three MR16 lamps I bought from Homebase a couple of years ago. I took the whole lot back to show them the charred wiring and swollen transformer, and they exchanged them for an identical looking set of GU10 downlights. No quibble, and no receipt required, and I'd had them for over two years.

I notice Homebase don't appear to sell MR16 lighting sets these days.

 

[ytd]

I had a similar problem. The lights were cutting out because the thermal overload switch in the transformer was activated. Replaced all the lights with compact flouescent fittings that used the same dia hole in the plaster. These still run hot but not burning hot.